[jgoldbe2]

I am doing a lot of research on torsion boxes and the qualities associated with building with them. I am very interested in building a solid workbench to start out with. If all goes well, I would like to start building tables and doors using the same torsion box method.
Upon actually trying to put together a good torsion box panel in my workshop, I found that building one of these things is going to be much more labor intensive than I had originally hoped.

Does anyone know of a company that manufactures torsion boxes/torsion box panels that I could use as a raw material for these projects?

Thanks.

 

[Dave Paine]

Do you want solid or hollow workbench? These feel to be in conflict for a workbench.

One of the desirable properties of a good workbench is weight for e.g. hand planing/chiseling tasks.

Another forum member, Chris Curl made a solid workbench, but recently sold it because it was not heavy enough. Food for thought.

The most commonly available torsion box construction item is a lauan door. A thin skin with an internal matrix for support. Relatively stiff for its thickness and lightweight.

Cover a lauan door with e.g., 1/4in or 1/2in plywood and you have a decent working surface, stilll too light for a good workbench in my view.

Making a torsion box does not have to be time consuming. You just need to decide the internal matrix which separates and supports the top and bottom.

Heck even Dixie cups can work as the internal matrix for a torsion box as long as they are glued in place. Very strong in compression. Glue them up side by side, one up one down, etc and you have a very strong matrix which does not weight much. Good for home use.

Rigid insulation is also potential as a matrix for a torsion box. Just need to glue down and completely fill the void.

Lots of possibilities if all you want to stiffness against bending.

 

[woodnthings]

Torsion box work table/bench/outfeed table

I made this one from 2 pieces of 3/4 particle board 10 ft x 30" for counter tops. It's also got another 3/4" piece on top for a replaceable work surface. So far I haven't needed to flip it over. I sealed it with shellac which make for a really smooth slippery surface.... not always good when trying to hold something down with a clamp.

It's very strong, heavy, level, flat and stable. I flattened out the first 10 ft sheet and then glued the sides on using a 10 ft long 2" x 2" aluminum tube for straightness, one side at a time. I then added the center long strip and then filled in between with short ones, all 3/4" stock ripped to the same dimension, about 2 3/4". When everything had set up I coated all the exposed edges and then plopped the top on and used everything I had to weigh it down as well as clamps along the edges:

 

[Chris Curl]

woodnthings: are those 2x4s or 2x3s or something else? and how did you make sure they are all exactly the same width?

I am the guy whose workbench was not heavy enough. I do hand tool work more than anything on it. Planing, chiseling, sawing, ... was causing it to move. It was too short as well, only 48" long. For a workbench, the heavier the better.

Ikea makes holllow countertop/desktop things. I have one that a neighbor was discarding. I have not dissected it though, so I don't know the interior structure of it, but I imagine they are similar to a torsion box inside.

 

[woodnthings]

....

It's very strong, heavy, level, flat and stable. I level out the first 10 footer and then glues the sides on using a 2" x 2" aluminum tube for straightness, one side at a time. I then added the center long strips and then filled in between with short ones, all 3/4" stock ripped to the same dimension, about 2 3/4".......

woodnthings: are those 2x4s or 2x3s or something else? and how did you make sure they are all exactly the same width?
.

I ripped them at the same fence setting, 2 3/4", then cut them to fit in between the long ones.

 

[Chris Curl]

From the pics, they look thicker than 3/4" to me. Optical illusion I guess.