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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I found someone selling a new in the box Incra Ultra Jig (24 inch) for $150. It originally retailed for $250. I don't think it's made anymore, but it looks like the cat's meow for dovetails and box joints. I haven't done any of this type of joinery but would like to. Is this a good deal and something I should jump on? Not a lot of info about it via Google so I thought I'd try you guys.
 

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It's an ok deal with the way it is right now for dovetails and box joints but if you want to really up the ante upgrade the fence to get a splint fence and use it all the time on your router table. I have the same thing only in a 17 inch version but it upgraded the fence. Since I don't have a dedicated router table I don't use it as much as I should. See the upgraded fence here http://www.incrementaltools.com/Wonder_Fence_Upgrade_p/wf-fslash-ultra.htm.
 

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I have the Incra 16in router fence. At the time I was impressed by the box joints and dovetail joint being made in the demo at the woodwork show.

I have tried making box joints. You need a sacrificial fence to avoid tearout.

I have not tried making dovetails.

I love this fence. I use my router table a lot. For edge profiles or grooves, I rarely use more than a few inches of the available depth.

You will soon love being able to quickly set a depth, and easily repeat a depth.

I added thick MDF sacrificial split fence in front of the aluminium. Two pieces of 3/4in MDF glued together.

Held in place by some UHMW pieces which go into one of the slots and screwed in from the front. You can see the two screw either side of the router bit in this picture.

You can also see the right hand side has seen action as "sacrificial". This is why I used MDF. Cheap to make, flat and cheap to replace.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I added thick MDF sacrificial split fence in front of the aluminium. Two pieces of 3/4in MDF glued together.

Held in place by some UHMW pieces which go into one of the slots and screwed in from the front. You can see the two screw either side of the router bit in this picture.
I'm a little confused on how you are using the UHMW. Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks as though you just attached the MDF to the metal fence. Are you using the the UHMW in the T-slots and then screwing through the MDF into the UHMW just enough that it doesn't go through and into the metal fence? Could I use a T-bolt from the fence slots through the MDF instead?
 

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I'm a little confused on how you are using the UHMW. Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks as though you just attached the MDF to the metal fence. Are you using the the UHMW in the T-slots and then screwing through the MDF into the UHMW just enough that it doesn't go through and into the metal fence? Could I use a T-bolt from the fence slots through the MDF instead?
Yes, I am using the UHMW in the T slot like a T nut.

The screws go through the MDF into the UHMW material.

At the time I did not have the T nuts. I also wanted the fence to slide in the slot without scratching. The low friction of the UHMW makes adjustment easy, even with tension on the screws.

I move the fence based on the router bit I am using.

I like the T nuts for when I want to tighten something so it does not move.
 

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So can you buy t-shaped UHMW for t-slots, or did you make your own?
I made my own. If I recall I cut a strip of 3/8in thick material and cut small rabbets for the slot opening. This material is easy to cut.

Some pictures if these help.

Side view.

Wood Plywood Architecture Table Column

Back view, I think I made these about 1in long.

Wood Plywood
 
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