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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

I'm building a simple ladder out of some pressure treated lumber. Can pressure treated wood be glued with TB III? I ask because I know there are problems painting the stuff so I didn't know if it would glue well. I'm using deck screws as the main fasteners on this project but figured it couldn't hurt to glue it, too.

Thanks,
Bill
 

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It depends on how fresh it is from the factory. If it is really wet you will have the same problems with glue as you would with a finish. If it is necessary to glue to treated wood that isn't quite dry yet it would be better to use a polyurethane glue such as gorilla glue. I would rely on fasteners more than glue anyway.
 

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PT wood can be stained and finished if it's dry like Steve stated. As for gluing - depends on the type of glue and and the dryness of the wood. I would think gorilla glue would work - but try a construction adhesive like LiquidNails or LocTite pl glue.
 

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Be aware that the new type of pressure treating material will quickly rust and corrode metal fasteners. Be sure to use fasteners with the correct coatings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good idea Rich. I just emailed them.

Regarding the fasteners rusting, I'm using Grip-Rite deck screws but I'll double check the box to make sure they're the proper ones to use.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rich gave good advice. I emailed the Titebond people and they got back to me quickly:

<<Hi Bill,
The only issue with using Titebond III with pressure treated lumber is the amount of moisture in the pressure treated lumber. Titebond III is a water-based adhesive and needs to dry to build strength. Excess moisture in pressure treated lumber can inhibit the drying of the Titebond III and keep it from reaching full strength. If the lumber has high moisture content, we would recommend Titebond Polyurethane Glue. This type of adhesive reacts with moisture and builds strength quickly. I have attached a technical data sheet for this product for your review. If the lumber is dry, then the Titebond III will work fine.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks,

Bob Behnke
Senior Technical Specialist
Franklin International>>


Now here's the problem: I can't find this stuff anywhere locally (though I'd like to use it since they were so helpful). Would any polyurethane adhesive work? Loctite brand is easily available. So is Gorilla Glue but it's much more expensive.



Bill
 

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Any updates

Well it's been a while, does anyone that have used any of the suggestions above? Results? I'm sure this site has pulled in a lot of interested people (like me).
 

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welcome to the forum, LJ.
although this is a seven year old thread, it appears the others
have moved on. but if you have a specific issue or concern with
P/T lumber, there are many other recent threads here if you use
the "search" feature in the upper right corner.

when you get time, please complete your profile with your location
so we can see what part of the world you are in.
are you a woodworker ? tell us a little about yourself.

if you have a need for a P/T lumber adhesive, check your Box Store
in the "caulking" area. there are several adhesives that landscapers
use to keep P/T landscape timbers in place and not all that expensive.
if you are doing a P/T project, please share it with us.

.
 

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Another good product for wet wood would be 3M brand 5200 Adhesive.
here are 2 notes of many that I took from their site:
Tough and flexible polyurethane polymer forms strong bonds
Capable of retaining strong bonds during vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock

This product had been used and more commonly over-used by boaters. Generally speaking, when its on, it on. Not coming off. To many boaters it was a miracle cure for leaks on windows and other places. Problem was that if a window broke or otherwise had to be removed, it had to be ground out. it was not coming off. It's great stuff but remember - IT's PERMANENT!
 

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Another good product for wet wood would be 3M brand 5200 Adhesive.
here are 2 notes of many that I took from their site:
Tough and flexible polyurethane polymer forms strong bonds
Capable of retaining strong bonds during vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock

This product had been used and more commonly over-used by boaters. Generally speaking, when its on, it on. Not coming off. To many boaters it was a miracle cure for leaks on windows and other places. Problem was that if a window broke or otherwise had to be removed, it had to be ground out. it was not coming off. It's great stuff but remember - IT's PERMANENT!
As I recall, 5200 now includes a warning on the label about disassembly being impossible. It’s crazy stuff! Im surprised they haven’t marketed it for other uses because if it’s tenacity. I’ve used it in brickwork to make expansion joints and to seal openings. I haven’t used it on roofing yet, but I probably would if the need arose.

I’ve also used 4200 which is still plenty hard to get apart, but not completely impossible.
 
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