[Waterboy12]

As i get more involved with flatwork the need for a router table is becoming more apparent. However with floor space being at a premium im being drawn into the thought of having a routher table wing on my table saw. I have a cast iron late 80's early 90's full size delta contractor with an induction motor and a link belt. I was wantig to hear the opinions of the router pros. A dedicated standalone router table could be a possibility but i like the idea of saving the floor space with the table saw wing. Ive seen cast iron and malamine wings and was wondering if the cast iron was worth $100 over the malamine and if the results would be on par with a standalone router table. Any other info yall would like to gu=ive me on this subject would be greatly appreciated. ~josh. :thumbsup:

 

[Bill White 2]

I see mixed opinions everywhere.
I have a stand alone router setup. Have thought about the wing mount myself, but.......
Bill

 

[Waterboy12]

One other thing...do I absolutely need a router lift? Or is that just something for convenience? I'm a wood turner guys...school me!

 

[jschaben]

One other thing...do I absolutely need a router lift? Or is that just something for convenience? I'm a wood turner guys...school me!

Well, as far as the router lift goes, there is very little "absolutely needed" on a router table. Many of the newer routers offer built in lifts in the base precluding the need for lifts. Most have some minor drawbacks but none add the $$$ to the table either. I use a Freud 3000 with the built in lift and have only found two issues. First, the router will raise about .005" inch when clamped. Hardly an issue with most jobs, can be an issue with rails and stiles, reversible glue joints and similar bits that require extreme precision. Although, once aware of it is also a non-issue. Second, occasionally the setup of the job places the above table access underneath the fence. The solution is simply go under the table for those incidents.
As far as a router wing for your saw, many, many guys have that setup and love it. If your shop gets the visits from Murphy that mine seems to, you will likely run into instances where you need just one more stick cut and need to break down the router setup to set up the table saw and then vice versa. If you have the space for a stand alone table, that would be my recommendation.
Good Luck:smile:

 

[FrankC]

I have used both, there are advantages to each. With a removable plate in the wing the whole assembly can be removed without disturbing the router setting when necessary. If there is room a dedicated machine is always preferable.

 

[Paarker]

I have a cast iron wing and a router lift and wouldn't have it any other way in my small shop.

 

[Quickstep]

I built a router wing into my table saw years ago. I liked that the router table wing could share the table saw fence. One day while set up to rout, I turned on the saw instead of the router with my left hand close to the blade. Scared me a lot. I took it apart and built a separate table.


You don't need a lift, it just makes it a lot easier to accurately dial in the depth.

 

[MT Stringer]

I have all of the above.
I bought a new saw last December - Grizzly 1023RLW. That model comes with a cast iron wing that is 8 inches wider than the std wing (right side). However, that doesn't increase the rip capacity. That remains the same, which for me is 26 inches. That's OK. I work out of a one car garage and space is a premium.

The router wing comes with a universal mount so several different models of routers will fit. I mounted a Bosch 1617. The fixed base has the capability of being adjusted from above the table so I carefully measured and then drilled a hole in the cast iron wing. That was easy...30 seconds or so and the hole was drilled.

If you buy the Grizzly add on wing, it appears to come with a miter groove. Mine doesn't have one.

Having 4 feet of router table to work off of is a rush! However, I rarely do that. If I need a fence, I attach my shop made router fence to the table saw fence and adjust it accordingly. Works out pretty nice for me. I use a pair of fence clamps sold by Rockler to clamp the fences together.

Prior to the new saw purchase, I had built a table top for my router. I have used it clamped to saw horses, clamped to my work table, and now it is attached to the end of my newly constructed miter saw station.

So I actually have the best of both worlds when it comes to router stuff...way more tools than skill, that is for sure.

Here are a few pics.
Hope this helps.
Mike

 

[woodnthings]

I love my Jessem lift(s)

I've got the Bench Dog Pro side extension with a Jessem Mast R Lift 2, with the locking height feature, and a Porter Cable 7518 5 speed router. I can't imagine a better combination. The table saw fence is NOT used for the router which came with it's own fence. Here some pictures from My Photos:

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/memb...man-table-saw/8444-bench-dog-extension-table/

Because you can make very minute and precise height adjustments from the top of table, routing becomes much more enjoyable. Maybe some of the built in heght adjustment type routers are just as positive and accurate, I donno? but I wouldn't be without my lift(s). I have 2 other's that are in freestanding tables rather than the side extension, possibly visible in one of the photos.

 

[dt1050]

could you put the router table on hinges, with a set of folding legs,that way when your done or need the table saw, just fold it down. another idea would be to add a wing and when your done just take the router out and have a larger top for your table saw? I have an old kitchen table that I think I'm gonna take the slides out of and attach them to my saw, then when I need to make the saw table bigger for larger stock, just slide them out and insert a piece of wood. dt

 

[bladeburner]

I have 4 router tables; one of which is mounted in the TS. Using the TS fence is false economy.

I've had a standalone router table of one design or other since the 70's. When I bought my last TS, I put another table in it right away. At the time I was routing long boards and the saw's top was a great help. I didn't go with steel, because the added weight may have required additional leg support.

Personally, I never saw a benefit to a lift. I measure every setup at eye level and if I were to spend all that $$$, I'd get another shaper instead.

Both of my standard tables employ the Keen dust collection system ($40.00 Amazon; $80.00 Sears) and work very well. And before you ask, on very large bits I simply pull the cup out with the router motor and reverse the procedure when installing.

One table has a Milwaukee 5619 (on TS), and the other a PC890.

So, put in a table; it couldn't hurt!

 

[Waterboy12]

After some thinking and hearing what y'all had to say I'm think I'm going to go with a small footprint router table. Thinking about building the base with drawers and cabinets etc and just buying a top like MLCS sales. I've got the room I just don't want to give it up.

 

[jharris2]

You can buy or build your own top and hang it on the wall when not in use.

Then either clamp it to your bench or do a simple mod that allows you to clamp it into a Workmate.

Both the top and the folded Workmate fit under my RAS bench.

 

[cps]

You can buy or build your own top and hang it on the wall when not in use.

Then either clamp it to your bench or do a simple mod that allows you to clamp it into a Workmate.


View attachment 77225

Both the top and the folded Workmate fit under my RAS bench.

That is a great idea....

 

[Waterboy12]

You can buy or build your own top and hang it on the wall when not in use.

Then either clamp it to your bench or do a simple mod that allows you to clamp it into a Workmate.

Both the top and the folded Workmate fit under my RAS bench.

That is a good idea! Thanks for that!

 

[jharris2]

You're very welcome.

I can't take credit for the idea but I needed a second RT for shop and field.

Its compact and portable although low for me (6'-2")

That said I'm happy with it.

If you don't need a portable RT just a top and a couple of sturdy clamps might meet your needs.

As far as storage for bits, plate inserts wrenches etc, take a look at this

 

[rbhicks]

I just picked up a cast iron Bench Dog insert. I was just going to replace an old top on my router table stand. I figured out how to mount it on the stand, got it all set up and then made the mistake if wheeling it over to my table saw...this would be really cool if I did actually have it as part of my saw. Long story short

 

[jharris2]

Will it work if you install some leveling feet in the bottoms of the stand legs?

 

[rbhicks]

Will it work if you install some leveling feet in the bottoms of the stand legs?

I ended up just installing it on my table saw. I really like the floor space I picked up and I love how solid it feels.

 

[jharris2]

I ended up just installing it on my table saw. I really like the floor space I picked up and I love how solid it feels.

No photo?, Never Happened!