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@DrRobert


ANY of the unguarded RASs can be un safe. they did a recall program to proved a better guard for the blade.
most like my self did know about it till it was over.


the one you have pictured should be a 12" saw

there is a lot of RASs listed within 80 miles of GNV.fl facebook
 

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That looks exactly like my 10". It was the first major power tool I ever owned and it has served me well for many years. It is now relegated to mostly rough cross cuts. You just have to carefully check your settings before every cut. Don't depend too much on the detents and stops. I have never had a major issue with it other than having to replace the switch many years ago. Of course, no replacement was available. So, I replaced it with a commercial grade toggle (wall light) switch. Not the best solution, but it has done the job for many years. I never did honor the recall years ago. As recall, they were trying to buy the motor from you in order to make the rest junk and get them out of use.
This is probably not the best of the various RAS brands out there, but the price isn't too bad; especially if it comes with some other goodies like blades. Be sure it includes the two wrenches for changing the blade and the blade guard. Having said that, I might try to get the price down a bit more if I really wanted it.
If I were buying one today, I think I would hold out for the turret style as you said. I don't really know if they are any better, but they are intriguing.
 

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That one is worth $75.00 whether it's a 10" or 12", I can't tell from that photo. It looks like it's got a 10" blade?
The 12" blade with a 5/8" arbor are scarce, I have two or three saved from back when.
I run 10" blades on my 12" saw, no issues and much more common.
The one piece cast iron columns as shown, are supposed to be better, more accurate than the two piece ones.
If you can go look at it, read the motor label and if it's a 240 volt only it's a 12" like mine.
I like my 12" even though it may not be as rugged as a turret Dewalt or Rockwell. It's good enough.
I leave mine locked at 90 degrees for crosscut only, and miter on my table saw or miter saws.

If the recall is still in force, you can get $100 for the saw and make $25.00 on it.
 

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where's my table saw?
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@DrRobert
ANY of the unguarded RASs can be un safe. they did a recall program to proved (provide) a better guard for the blade.
most like my self did know about it till it was over.

this a guard show on this for sale. ??? This saw for sale shows a guard?

the one you have pictured should (could) be a 12" saw?

there is a lot of RASs listed within 80 miles of GNV.fl facebook
Please read your posts before posting them to avoid confusion.
There were two ways to recall the Craftsman RAS:
One had you enter the model number and they would send you a new improved retractable guard and a new set of wood pieces for the table.
The other approach was you would get $100 for the motor/carriage if you turned that in, if I recall?
I always went for the new improved guard and kept my saws:
Bicycle part Tool Gas Font Machine


There's a difference between a blade guard that's part of the saw and a retracting blade guard that may have never been supplied or has been remove by a previous owner.
The factory supplied retracting blade guard:
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Helmet Hood Vehicle


How are you determining that it is a 12" saw?
 

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this comment above shows me to never again to use the Iphone to make reply's to any forum..

some other info, http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com and more, CPSC, Emerson Tool Co. Announce Recall of Craftsman® Radial Arm Saws Sold by Sears, Roebuck and Co.

also I said blade guard and yes there were other recalls but I was talking about Guards.
a lot of brands had / have poor blade Guards. leaving bottom of the blades exposed..

as far as I know and the ones I have worked on, only the 12" came with that style motor. i will admit not that many to be worked on. also not that many were sold. most shipped as 220 volt unit but cold be setup as 120 volt. aslo of note the 12" were not part of the recall. see above links.

if you look at the end of the motor it does not have vents. also not a clam shell case.start capacitor outside of the motor body.
most of the 10" made after 1978 had a plastic case.


Train Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Wheel
Automotive tire Wood Tool Power tool Gas


not seeing the front of the arm to be sure my best guess is it prior to 1978
 

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I have the 10" version Model 113.29450 and have used it a lot in the past with no issues. I just looked up the recall for the replacement upgraded parts, and it looks like it expired in 2019. And now it looks like they may still give $50 to incapacitate it. I am keeping and using mine. Just be safe and keep your fingers away from the blade.
 

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@DrRobert
I was thinking about getting another one also. Sold mine about 6 months ago.
About the only thing I used it for was for 45* lap joints on 2x4's when making cross-arms for high shelf supports.
That is all I ever used it for. It took up too much room so i sold it. Dont really know why I miss it, but I do.
Around here in Houston/Galveston area, they are always coming up for sale. One in really good condition with a few extra blades run about $200. In crap condition, but still works - around $75 - $100.

Good Luck
 

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where's my table saw?
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I have the 10" version Model 113.29450 and have used it a lot in the past with no issues. I just looked up the recall for the replacement upgraded parts, and it looks like it expired in 2019. And now it looks like they may still give $50 to incapacitate it. I am keeping and using mine. Just be safe and keep your fingers away from the blade.
Yes, and if you can afford it. get a used "safety blade guard" like this:

The original guards shown on Ebay are not equipped with any type of retracting blade guard, which leaves a lot of spinning blade exposed:

I have posted here many times my DIY retracting blade guard made of 1/8" Lexan. It's a left side only assembly, but that's where your "hold down" hand is so it's all that's needed:
 
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Yes, and if you can afford it. get a used "safety blade guard" like this:

The original guards shown on Ebay are not equipped with any type of retracting blade guard, which leaves a lot of spinning blade exposed:

I have posted here many times my DIY retracting blade guard made of 1/8" Lexan. It's a left side only assembly, but that's where your "hold down" hand is so it's all that's needed:
I don't think I would spend $145 from the listing on eBay but I may try to make one like you did. Looks like a plan. :)
Thanks
 

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Not a big fan of Craftsman RAS in general. I think they value engineered them to death and there were so many out that there that wore out fast it gave them their horrible but well deserved bad reputation. I have had two and probably both were worn out. One couldn't even cut a straight line, I jest not!

That aside, I have read and heard that early Craftsman, (Model 100?) were much better made. That looks like one in your photo but still have a bad taste for Craftsman. So would hold out for a Delta or DeWalt.

I have a 1946ish 12" DeWalt that I love. Never will part with that one most likely. Use it all the time. Cuts great, move it and index back and it is still square. Never given me a moments problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I’ve had 3 radial arms. One had no guard, one had a guard I removed, and the other had a guard you could raise with a lever, which I I kept tied in the up position.

I don’t trust any C’man except maybe an old one. The issue with the old DeWalts and others is the motor condition. I had a nice 9” DW when the motor got weak, there was no way to fix it. It would have to be rewound by hand, which was cost prohibitive.

This one is about 2 hours away. 220V Asking $150. Road trip?

Plant Wood Gas Machine Soil
 

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I used to buy lumber from an old water powered sawmill. they had a saw called a swing saw. driven by a flat leather belt. It was two arms down from the ceiling, that swung forward, with a tube in between that the shaft to the blade ran through. there were no guards and you reached in between the arms and used the tube for the handle to swing the blade forward to cut the boards. Lots of other equipment that were from the same era went back to the 1700's.
 
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