[SeanStuart]

Hey, I am going to make this jig from Fine Woodworking. I am thinking of modifying it a bit:

I am thinking of putting two toggle clamps instead of one, and mounting them on top of the sliding board on top instead of doing a cut out and mounting them on the bottom sled board.

Is there any reason not to do this? Thanks.

 

[Steve Neul]

I think if you do that you should make the adjustable board heavier or perhaps make it out of steel. I'm not sure the adjustable board is sufficient to hold the pressure of the toggle clamp.

 

[SeanStuart]

Yes, I was probably going to make that 3/4 anyway.

I guess I was thinking I might want to use it to cut wider boards at a consistent angle, and having the clamps on the sliding board would add that versatility. But, I might never do that.

 

[bladeburner]

Here's a jig design that's worked for the past 40 years. This particular jig is 10-15 years old.
I like miter slot designs on my sled type jigs, that work from either side.

Showing the hold-downs

 

[SeanStuart]

I like Miterslots too BB, I just don't like paying for them. Kinda pricey. Nice jig, I like the wooden doo-dad.

This one worked real nice. Only modified it slightly from the magazine.

 

[jharris2]

I think if you do that you should make the adjustable board heavier or perhaps make it out of steel. I'm not sure the adjustable board is sufficient to hold the pressure of the toggle clamp.

You're right Steve.

I built an 8' jig out of 3/4" plywood for straightening long stock on the TS.

The ply is so flexible that when I clamp the stock into the jig the clamps pull the adjustable board off of the base.

Subsequently I can't get reliable clamp pressure on the workpiece.

Before I use that jig again I'll have to find some aluminum channel (3/4" inside) and attach it over/around each side of the adjustable piece.

I'm hoping that'll give me enough reinforcement to resist upward movement.

[email protected]#$%&!!!

 

[jharris2]

Yes, I was probably going to make that 3/4 anyway.

I guess I was thinking I might want to use it to cut wider boards at a consistent angle, and having the clamps on the sliding board would add that versatility. But, I might never do that.

Versatilty! Versatility! Versatility!

You're expending the effort to make this jig. Why not get the most out of it?

 

[bladeburner]

Just one more point. The clamps will hold the work without applying tremendous pressure. The back stop does most of the work, while the clamps just need to be snug.

However, these jigs are not for crotch, or any other wood under internal stress. Resaw that stuff and use it for veneer.

I received this Rockler jig as a gift 2-3 years ago. I find that it could be longer, but it functions well otherwise. What I don't like is, that the toggle clamps try to push the wood away from the fence when clamped hard, whereas my shopmade clamps tend to slide before 'pushing'. The aluminum channel will also bow if the clamps press down too hard. But, as I said, the work doesn't need to be clamped hard.

 

[LRTX1]

Look on youtube for Laney Shaunesey. he just did a video on a neat sled that you might could get a few idears from.