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Hi,

A couple of weeks ago i posted a forum about my 10" Contractors Saw vibration. I removed the belt to see if the tablesaw would stop the vibration, the vibration was completely gone. I also read that the vibration could be because the belt isn't aligned properly.

How do I align the belt so the it is straight?

The instructions that came with the tablesaw were pretty bad

Many thanks
 

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Sawdust Creator
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I'd put a new belt on first......usually what happens is the saw sits without being used and the belt takes on that shape a bit......once it starts getting used again the belt is not smoothly traveling around the motor or arbor shaft and thats whats causing your vibration.

I'd try this one.....fixed the problem instantly on my father in laws contractor saw when I put it on.....

http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html

They don't hold a shape like traditional belts......
 

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where's my table saw?
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the faces of the pulley must be parallel

How do I align the belt so the it is straight?

You can check with a long straight edge or a piece of fishing line taped on the arbor pulley and pulled tight to the motor pulley. It should touch in 4 places, 2 on each pulley.
 

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Okay... Here's what you do.

First,you go to this website in-lineindustries.com

What you want to buy is what used to be called the "Contractor Saw Tune-up Kit". You want to get new MACHINED pulleys - you have to specify the make and model of the saw - and a link belt, now called an Accu-belt. Most saws come with cast pulleys: machined pulleys run better and don't cause vibration. Well worth it.

You also want a set of PALS - again for your saw. "PALS" means "Positive Alignment and Locking System". A set, when installed, and you get full instructions, allows you to adjust the table and the trunnions so that the miter slot is parallel - exactly parallel - to the blade.

So far this hasn't been that expensive... the PALS is $20, and the pulleys and belt will run you $50. And you can buy pulleys and belting separately.

Once installed, all the vibration goes away, and things won't wind up with strange angles when you do a cross-cut using the miter gauge.

The next thing I highly recommend is the A-line-it Deluxe. It is a kit containing a dial indicator and some nice bars so that you can mount the dial indicator to measure distances ACCURATELY.

You use it to align your miter gauge slot with the blade - using the PALS to shift the table. You use the kit to make sure your drill press table is perpendicular to the quill (the thing that has the chuck on the end of it). You can use it to measure run-out in lots of things with shafts which rotate: your saw blade and it's arbor, the drill-press, adjust the blades in your planer and jointer, etc.

Not cheap. If you want to just get a dial indicator, you can get one from Harbor Freight for much less. Of course, you don't get the other things that come in the A-Line-It kit.

I've got a tuned-up Powermatic Artisan Saw Model 62. I lined it up once, a long time ago (I hate to think how long ago...), put in the PALS and the Tune-Up kit and it runs smoothly and accurately. Almost as good as the '66 saw I couldn't afford at the time.. Wellllll, that is a bit of an exaggeration, but not that much.

And the link belt hasn't worn out even once. With solid belts a friend of mine keeps a couple of spares on hand,,,

Sorry to be so long winded, but that's my advice. And no, I DON'T get a cent for talking about In-Line. They have good products and I've been very satisfied with their stuff, that's all.

Best of luck.
 

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I just purchased two of those serp belt kits on Ebay. I was hoping for them to arrive today but I checked the tracking and somehow they are going from Memphis to Columbus via Omaha. I cant figure that one out. It says it was scheduled for delivery yesterday so I think there was a mixup somewhere. Anyhow, Ill report back once these show up and I actually get to use them.

To the OP, if you opt for a link belt, be sure and get a set of steel pullys. The aluminum pullys currently on your saw wont last long with a link belt.
 

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add-on to my previous post

I just checked the In-line Industries site, and clicked on something I hadn't looked at before...:thumbdown:

Go there and click cursor over "Education" in the heading, and then click on "Manuals":thumbup:

On the"Manuals" page under "Table Saw Manuals" click on "Maintaining Your Table Saw":thumbup:

There you will find nice detailed instructions on tuning up a saw - table saw or contractor saw.:thumbup::thumbup:

The other manuals - for PALS and for Pulley and Belt are also of great interest, especially for the ww newbie. :thumbup: :thumbup::thumbup:

... okay, just maybe I went a bit overboard with the smiles...
 

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Just a heads up to anyone considering the serp belt kit from Ebay. I recieved the 2 kits I ordered today. Im missing one pulley, I have one damaged pulley and all the pulleys have rust on them in spots. I would expect the shipper to put a little oil on them and bag them before shipping to prevent rust but I guess that was too much to ask. Im not very happy.

Oh I also recieved a whole slew of stuff I didnt order. Several knobs and levers. A bag of small setscrews and a bag of bolts and other hardware. Also two sets of anti kickback pawls. Dunno why all that stuff was in the box.

Ive contacted the seller and Ebay. Guess we'll see how it ends.

Update: Seller contacted me and said he shipped 4 new pulleys. If they arrive in good shape, Ill be a happy camper. Aside from this minor setback, it looks to be a good quality kit for an incredible price!
 

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BassBlaster... read my post just above yours: go to In-Line Industries and take a look.

Jerry would NEVER EVER EVER ship you garbage. EVER!

You should also read the manuals.

And NO!, I am not related to Jerry, or have an interest (financial) in his company, or in any other way related to In-line. I'm simply a very satisfied customer who appreciates high quality merchandise that the vendor stands behind.
 

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I dont think this guy shipped me garbage either, it was just packed horribly and they got beat to death during shipping. Everyone makes mistakes and he is replacing the product so I cant complain.

Im restoring 2 saws. I got two complete pulley and belt kits for what it would cost for the belt alone for one saw. Are link belts better than a serp belt? I dunno. I dont know anyone with a serp belt on a contractors saw. All the new high end saws come with serp belts.

I have a dial guage and the ability to make any kind of jig I might need to check alignment.

The PALS are cool but an uneccissary gimmick IMO.

Thanks though.:thumbsup:
 

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"Serp" (short for serpentine, I suppose) ARE link belts. The PALS are cool... Quite true. Unnecessary? Well, maybe if you've got the hammer and skills to adjust your miter slot(s) to be parallel to the blade to within 0.001".

The PALS, in conjunction with the A-lineit kit will allow you to test your miter slots to see if they are, in fact parallel, to adjust your table to the above mentioned 0.001",to adjust your fence to be parallel to the blade likewise within 0.001", and set it so that it toes OUT, instead of towing IN, The latter is a very hazardous situation, as the work piece can be seized by the blade and thrown back at you.

In addition the A-lineit kit allows you to detect any possible run-out in the arbor, or out-of-flat in the blade(s) you use, as well as being similarly useful in testing and adjusting the rest of your shop machinery.

That is, of course, if you care to be able to rely on your machinery to do what you want it to do.

I corrected a couple of problems with my saw that way, and stopped being frustrated by trying to do something only to have my work wasted because my machinery was screwing me up.

Sorry to be so preachy, but I found that with properly adjusted tools my work became the pleasure I had hoped for, and not the source of frustration that it had been. Especially when my wife had been standing there shaking her head as I paid out good money for the tools and supplies...
'
 

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Serp belts are not the same as link belts....serp belts are the same type as modern car engine belts...link belts are assembled from interlocking pieces.
 

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... Are link belts better than a serp belt?....
As with a lot of things, there are pros and cons with each. Serp belts are more aerodynamic, so they make less wind noise. Serp belts can take a set, and are prone to getting chewed up if the pulleys aren't aligned well. Link belts are easier to install, and can be easily custom sized. Link belts are more prone to stretching, and should be tightened up every now and then, but they won't take a set.
 

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"Serp" (short for serpentine, I suppose) ARE link belts. The PALS are cool... Quite true. Unnecessary? Well, maybe if you've got the hammer and skills to adjust your miter slot(s) to be parallel to the blade to within 0.001".

The PALS, in conjunction with the A-lineit kit will allow you to test your miter slots to see if they are, in fact parallel, to adjust your table to the above mentioned 0.001",to adjust your fence to be parallel to the blade likewise within 0.001", and set it so that it toes OUT, instead of towing IN, The latter is a very hazardous situation, as the work piece can be seized by the blade and thrown back at you.

In addition the A-lineit kit allows you to detect any possible run-out in the arbor, or out-of-flat in the blade(s) you use, as well as being similarly useful in testing and adjusting the rest of your shop machinery.

That is, of course, if you care to be able to rely on your machinery to do what you want it to do.

I corrected a couple of problems with my saw that way, and stopped being frustrated by trying to do something only to have my work wasted because my machinery was screwing me up.

Sorry to be so preachy, but I found that with properly adjusted tools my work became the pleasure I had hoped for, and not the source of frustration that it had been. Especially when my wife had been standing there shaking her head as I paid out good money for the tools and supplies...
'
Serp belts are link belts? Not even close. Besides, I dont have any issue with link belts. I initially intended to replace my pulleys with machined steel and buy link belts. I just found an alternative. I dunno that this way is better or not. Only time will tell. For the price, I couldnt not try it.

Your missing my point. I use a dial guage to set up my equipment, just like what comes with that kit. I also have the abillity to make any jig, even one that looks exactly like that kit that Im assuming is way overpriced. That kit cant do anything that I cant do with a quick shop made jig and my $20 dial guage.

PALS are available for a limited number of saws. The people who dont use PALS including me are still able to align thier equipment without too much trouble. No I cant align my blade to within .001 with a hammer but whats the point? I can align my saw to within .003 or .004 which is about the thickness of a sheet of standard printer paper. You dont honestly believe that a saw aligned to .001 is gonna show a better cut than one aligned to .003 do you? Were talking 2 one thousands of an inch. You cant even see that without a dial guage.

I dont toe out my fence. I align my blade to the miter slot and my fence to the blade. I agree as would any woodworker than knows absolutely anything about a table saw that a fence toed in is an accident waiting to happen. Toed out isnt neccissary though. Parallel works just fine.
 

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I stand corrected. Thank-you. I have that sort of belt on my band saw, and my name for them is un-printable... You can't believe the grief the damn thing caused me when I was setting it up. Between the mounting of the motor and the belt I went nuts for a week. It didn't help at all that all the work had to be done while reaching through an opening 10" on a side.

I've got a link belt on my table saw, as you undoubtedly know. I've had it for years and it is still as good as new. I don't know about noise in particular, because I built a housing that covers the motor and belt. I did this not because of noise, but rather to keep small cutoffs from slipping over the rear edge of the table, hitting the belt, and going flying... The top has a "shed roof" so that things that go off the end of the table wind up very neatly in a basket.
 
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