[BassBlaster]

I have an old Emerson made Craftsman contractor saw that I purchased several months ago that I plan to restore over the winter. A year or so ago, someone posted a table saw surround. It was basically a cabinet surround/workbench type thing and they had mounted a table saw into rather than a surround built around a freestanding saw. Id really like to do something like that and scrap the stock stand the saw sits on. I do plan to upgrade the fence. I had also planned to ditch the stamped steel wings and go with solid cast wings but if I do the surround, do I even need wings at all? The saw would be bolted to the surround and the surround will be heavier than the wings. Opinions?

Anyone know what Im talking about and know where to find plans for the surround? Id like to look at severl ideas and modify them to work for me. I know I'm going to have to be able to access the motor and belts and Id like to somehow incorpaorate some form of dust collection if possible. Im just looking for ideas and suggestions at this point. I have all winter to actually do the work.

 

[CaptainMarvel]

You mean something like these ???

You can find the links for these and more HERE


:smile:

 

[BassBlaster]

YES!!!! Exactly like those! Thanks! I was typing "table saw cabinet" into a google image search and it just kept showing me cabinet saws.

My wife will literally sit for hours on end and look at Pinterest and I get on to her all the time. Its her crack. Now I have to wait for her to go to bed so she dosnt catch me looking at table saw surrounds, lol. Good thing Im off work tomorrow! Thanks again!!

 

[BassBlaster]

Is there any reason to use wings? It dosnt look like anyone has wings in those surrounds. If I dont have to buy cast wings, that will be a plus.:thumbsup:

 

[Dopalgangr]

YES!!!! Exactly like those! Thanks! I was typing "table saw cabinet" into a google image search and it just kept showing me cabinet saws. My wife will literally sit for hours on end and look at Pinterest and I get on to her all the time. Its her crack. Now I have to wait for her to go to bed so she dosnt catch me looking at table saw surrounds, lol. Good thing Im off work tomorrow! Thanks again!!

ah yes, Pintrest has been the cause of a long honey do list for me to make stuff for my wife. She's on it 24/7

 

[Lola Ranch]

well, this saw sit on the floor.

Bret

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Is there any reason to use wings? It dosnt look like anyone has wings in those surrounds. If I dont have to buy cast wings, that will be a plus.:thumbsup:

If you build your table saw stand/cabinet with your table saw in the middle or just offset from one of the sides (most commonly the left), then you don't really need the wings. From many of the custom build projects I've seen, I tend to think it's mostly an aesthetic choice.

Here are a few more I like . . . .

http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/TblSawCab.php

http://www.shopnotes.com/issues/089/extras/table-saw-workcenter/

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Here is a custom table saw stand/cabinet project I am particularly fond of (see link below).

Click through the photos to see this person's step-by-step progress. Although there is no write-up for each step, the photos are helpful in chronicling the construction process.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1200tec/2355899445/in/photostream/




:smile:

 

[Dave Paine]

To add more examples, a thread with links to plans.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f9/ideas-portable-ts-rolling-cart-drawers-40170/

 

[BassBlaster]

Thanks guys. Gives me lots of ideas!:thumbsup:

 

[CaptainMarvel]

Thanks guys. Gives me lots of ideas!:thumbsup:

AWESOME !!!

In return, we expect you to continue on with thread and chronicle - in detail - how you choose to go about building your own table saw stand project . . . WITH LOTS OF STEP-BY-STEP PHOTOS.


:clap::clap::clap:

 

[BassBlaster]

Another question. Looking at the last pic in Captain Marvels first reply. Thats about what Im looking to do. A full surround, not just left and right. Obviously in that design, the rear fence rail wasnt used. I plan to use a Delta T2 fence and the rear rail is just a glide or support for the fence so adding a small glide under the fence itself and allowing it to glide on the table surface shouldnt be an issue. My concern is that I would want to continue the miter slots through the outfeed section of the surround. The fence glide would drop into and hang up on in the slot. Do you see anyway to make this work?

My only thought is to use a glide thats wider than the slot. I know other people have built outfeeds and not used the rear rail. How did you do it?

 

[BassBlaster]

AWESOME !!!

In return, we expect you to continue on with thread and chronicle - in detail - how you choose to go about building your own table saw stand project . . . WITH LOTS OF STEP-BY-STEP PHOTOS.


:clap::clap::clap:

I can do that! Im going to have alot more questions down the road anyhow. Especially when I get to dust collection on a contractor saw without losing the tilt features of the saw.

 

[CaptainMarvel]

I plan to use a Delta T2 fence and the rear rail is just a glide or support for the fence so adding a small glide under the fence itself and allowing it to glide on the table surface shouldnt be an issue. My concern is that I would want to continue the miter slots through the outfeed section of the surround. The fence glide would drop into and hang up on in the slot. Do you see anyway to make this work?

I'm not altogether sure the fence would drop into the continued slot ... that is if the connection-point is strong/sturdy enough and the fence is rigid/straight and true.

However, a possible - and relatively easy solution - could be to add some thin felt or plastic padding to the bottom of your fence ... not so thick that risks getting dust and/or wood chips stuck (thereby affecting the function of the fence itself for your straight cuts). Perhaps a few squares of the soft side of a velcro strip?



I'm actually planning on building a variation of that first stand image myself. :thumbsup:



MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION:
If you haven't already purchased your T2 Fence, you might want to consider taking a look at this . . .

CLICK --> DIY TABLE SAW FENCE SYSTEM.

Be sure to read through all of the pages of comments for that project
- there is a wealth of information to be found.




In the alternative, you might also be interested in the VerySuperCool Table Saw Fence System
from VerySuperCool Tools. Be sure to check out their DEMO VIDEOS of their product.



Just a few (hopefully helpful) suggestions.


:icon_cool:

 

[FrankC]

Another question. Looking at the last pic in Captain Marvels first reply. Thats about what Im looking to do. A full surround, not just left and right. Obviously in that design, the rear fence rail wasnt used. I plan to use a Delta T2 fence and the rear rail is just a glide or support for the fence so adding a small glide under the fence itself and allowing it to glide on the table surface shouldnt be an issue. My concern is that I would want to continue the miter slots through the outfeed section of the surround. The fence glide would drop into and hang up on in the slot. Do you see anyway to make this work?

My only thought is to use a glide thats wider than the slot. I know other people have built outfeeds and not used the rear rail. How did you do it?

On a Biesemeyer fence the strips on either side of the metal bar will hold it up enough for the glide to pass over the miter slot, not sure about Delta T2.

 

[woodnthings]

agreed

On a Biesemeyer fence the strips on either side of the metal bar will hold it up enough for the glide to pass over the miter slot, not sure about Delta T2.

A nylon, plastic laminate or UHMW plate attached under the rear of the fence will work just fine. It should not be thicker than 1/16" or you'll have too great a gap under the fence. It only needs to be wide enough... about 1 1/4" to span the slot which is 3/4".

To make the miter slots, just attach 1/2" material with a straight edge exactly on either edge of the slot. Use a 1/2" straight router bit in a 5/8" guide bushing and run the router up and back against the attached material to get a 3/4" wide slot.

 

[BassBlaster]

Thanks. Thats what I was thinking, something 1/16" thick would be percect. Im sure I can come up with a small piece of some type of plastic to glue under the fence back there. Im thinking Ill cover the top in Formica or use a sheet of Melamine so it should be fairly slick. Thanks for the tip on milling the slot. I had been thinking what the best way to go about it might be.

No I havnt purchased the fence yet. I like the idea of making my own tools but for the fence, I think I wanna stick with something thats proven. That and the T2 is fairly inexpensive at about 150 bucks. I havent actually looked at prices but I know that extruded aluminum thats pictured is really pricey stuff.

 

[cabinetman]

Another question. Looking at the last pic in Captain Marvels first reply. Thats about what Im looking to do. A full surround, not just left and right. Obviously in that design, the rear fence rail wasnt used. I plan to use a Delta T2 fence and the rear rail is just a glide or support for the fence so adding a small glide under the fence itself and allowing it to glide on the table surface shouldnt be an issue. My concern is that I would want to continue the miter slots through the outfeed section of the surround. The fence glide would drop into and hang up on in the slot. Do you see anyway to make this work?

My only thought is to use a glide thats wider than the slot. I know other people have built outfeeds and not used the rear rail. How did you do it?

The Biesemeyer can ride on the table. No need to add glides, no need for a rear rail. I've never had a problem with miter slots in the outfeed table.

.

 

[woodnthings]

Both my Biesemeyer fences ...

Both my Biese fences have glide pads on the bottom and do not rest directly on the tablesaw surface. For you doubters, I can take photos.

 

[cabinetman]

A nylon, plastic laminate or UHMW plate attached under the rear of the fence will work just fine. It should not be thicker than 1/16" or you'll have too great a gap under the fence. It only needs to be wide enough... about 1 1/4" to span the slot which is 3/4".

Unnecessary to "add on". The fence comes with tabs, which work fine.

.