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I'm making a sled for my Craftsman 10" table saw, using 1/2" MDF for the sled, but I'm trying to figure out what to do for the runners. I'm sure I'm over thinking it, but it doesn't hurt to get some opinons. Thanks guys.....

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Looking at my miter gauge, i know i could cut the runners to that shape.....


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And if I just cut straight strips, I'll hit those top edges.......



And if i cut the strips to fit those inside edges, the runners will have alot of slop.
 

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I'm making a sled for my Craftsman 10" table saw, using 1/2" MDF for the sled, but I'm trying to figure out what to do for the runners. I'm sure I'm over thinking it, but it doesn't hurt to get some opinons. Thanks guys.....

View attachment 73410
Looking at my miter gauge, i know i could cut the runners to that shape.....


View attachment 73411
And if I just cut straight strips, I'll hit those top edges.......


View attachment 73412
And if i cut the strips to fit those inside edges, the runners will have alot of slop.
Take a file, angle grinder, whatever and get rid of those protrusions. All they do is keep your miter gauge from tipping.

Or, if you have the capability, you could machine new runners for your sled. That would keep your sled from tilting.

George
 

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Not sure if I got the question wrong but all my runners are made out of Polyethylene, already cut to size. In Canada we geot these from Lee Valley tools.
 

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I made my runner out of oak, but my Craftsman TS didn't have those things sticking out. I don't know I'd probably file them off, but its your saw.
 

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where's my table saw?
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these threads come up all the time

"My miter slot has these projections ...what should I do?"
http://www.woodworkingformeremortals.com/2012/09/solving-craftsman-table-saw-miter-slot.html


The only real solution is to file or grind them off. The miter slots are not the standard 3/4" X 3/8" size. They are 5/8" X 1/4" or some odd ball size, if I recall, so standard size miter gauges won't fit. :thumbdown:
Another example of solving a problem by creating another one even worse...unintended consequences.
 

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On my 10" Craftsman TS, circa 1990's does not have those type miter slots. I have only seen miter slots like that on a table mounted saw. My contractor saw is a full grown saw.
 

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I never have liked that type of miter slot or the one Delta has with the little wheel on the end of the miter gauge for that matter. I took the wheel off the Delta miter gauge I have. If I had that saw I would grind the tabs off the top. It would work however to make a T-shaped piece of hardwood to use for the sled. You could also look on ebay for miter guages to fit your saw and use the rails off of them for the sled.
 

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where's my table saw?
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I lift my miter gauge out randomly

If it's locked in by the "tabs", you can't do that. Especially on a sled which is larger and heavy, it may require starting the runners in from the front of the saw. This would be very awkward and the location of the slots would not be visible since the sled would cover them. They are not a good idea, in my opinion. Another example of overthinking a small issue, a tipping miter gauge, and creating a bigger problem.
The miter gauges that come standard on that level of tablesaws generally have a bar that is too short in the first place.... a cost saving move on the manufactures part.

Either cut them off or sell that saw and move up a level to a cast iron table where the slots will be the standard size.... :yes: You will not be sorry you did.
 

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Once again, am I missing something here?. My TS has T type miter slots but my home made sled runs on normal 3/4" x 3/8" (poly) slides.
 

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where's my table saw?
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Not so, the el cheapo Crapsman TS's

Once again, am I missing something here?. My TS has T type miter slots but my home made sled runs on normal 3/4" x 3/8" (poly) slides.

You got a Powermatic, SawStop, Delta, General ...etc? :blink:
 

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Delta, but not the old top of the line Delta (I wish) . Until I saw ( no pun intended) my friends older cast iron shop Delta I didn't realize that they did produce top quality once. I rarely use the Mitre for cross cutting, prefer a compound mitre but use a sled for the wider stuff.
 

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I have those silly tabs on my Jet contractor saw. I went to Rockler and the guy told me to try the UHMW plastic stuff. It was crazy expensive. I just ripped it to 5/8" on my table saw and Voila!. You do have to use 20 or so screws (maybe 8) because it bends so it needs a lot of anchors. Its better than any hardwood runner I've made.
 

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I wouldn't grind the tabs off. It can be done,and has as far as I know. If you do a search on youtube, some people show how they did this.There are some different ways around it other than grinding off the tabs.

One person used runners along the sides. I have a Craftsman with those tabs. I decided rather than try to make a silk purse out of a sows ear, to just buy a good used Ridgid table saw with standard miter slots.

Something you might want to consider if its in your budget.
 
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