More sled photos
Routing the slots:
Routing the slots:
Table Saw Sled Build
So many threads on sleds. So I had to make one. I used 1/2" hardboard, like Masonite, for the sled. Maple runners. Oak for the front rail. I haven't decided to cut though the rear portion yet. I don't see the need so far.
The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the backside. Also a 1/2" X 1/16" step for the head of the "T" bolt. This stuff make the worst fine dust imaginable. :thumbdown: A simple pivoting guide of 1/4" Luan held the Dewalt plunge router
and the slots were made in several passes.
I used sticky 2 sided tape to locate the runners, then they were screwed in place. The kerf was made by raising the blade into the sled and pushing it ahead off the edge.
The fence was located square to the kerf using a large triangle. More to come later.
The semi-circular 5/16" slots for the "T" bolts were routed on the backside. Also a 1/2" X 1/16" step for the head of the "T" bolt. This stuff make the worst fine dust imaginable. :thumbdown: A simple pivoting guide of 1/4" Luan held the Dewalt plunge router
and the slots were made in several passes.
I used sticky 2 sided tape to locate the runners, then they were screwed in place. The kerf was made by raising the blade into the sled and pushing it ahead off the edge.
The fence was located square to the kerf using a large triangle. More to come later.
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Still thinkin' see post 3
Well, after sleeping on my sled :sleep1::bangin:.... idea, I came up with this.
The cool thing about the semi-circular slots, not my idea, is that the angles are infinitely adjustable. You either need an accurate reference to set it to, or once it's set, drill a hole and drop a pin into the hole to make a reference location. I scribed a line at 45 degrees, but I won't know until I test it, if that is accurate.
I haven't secured the rear fence yet (last photo) and may not. That's the advantage of not cutting all the way through the base at the rear, you don't need a tall fence and you because of that, you are not limited in the width of the workpiece.
Well, after sleeping on my sled :sleep1::bangin:.... idea, I came up with this.
The cool thing about the semi-circular slots, not my idea, is that the angles are infinitely adjustable. You either need an accurate reference to set it to, or once it's set, drill a hole and drop a pin into the hole to make a reference location. I scribed a line at 45 degrees, but I won't know until I test it, if that is accurate.
I haven't secured the rear fence yet (last photo) and may not. That's the advantage of not cutting all the way through the base at the rear, you don't need a tall fence and you because of that, you are not limited in the width of the workpiece.
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Unintended Consequences?
It takes a bit of set up using a digital protractor but the results are accurate. AFAICT. After a while you don't know which measuring tool to trust. My 24" Framing Square doesn't seem to be accurate...at 89.9 degrees. My large plastic triangle either ...89.8 degrees. I'm going with the digital protractor, I guess. :blink:
One of the advantages of having 2 fence systems is that the movable fences can also be set at 90 degrees to the blade for cross cutting. The gap between the two fences is a safety feature so the blade doesn't have to be exposed at the front.
I suppose slight corrections of 1/2 degree can be made if needed. I'm pretty pleased...so far. Maybe there will be changes or improvements to come. I'll have to sleep on it again. :yes:
FYI the depth of travel in front of the movable fence is 13 1/2" and in front of the fixed front fence is 17 1/2", but I could squeeze another 1" if needed.
It takes a bit of set up using a digital protractor but the results are accurate. AFAICT. After a while you don't know which measuring tool to trust. My 24" Framing Square doesn't seem to be accurate...at 89.9 degrees. My large plastic triangle either ...89.8 degrees. I'm going with the digital protractor, I guess. :blink:
One of the advantages of having 2 fence systems is that the movable fences can also be set at 90 degrees to the blade for cross cutting. The gap between the two fences is a safety feature so the blade doesn't have to be exposed at the front.
I suppose slight corrections of 1/2 degree can be made if needed. I'm pretty pleased...so far. Maybe there will be changes or improvements to come. I'll have to sleep on it again. :yes:
FYI the depth of travel in front of the movable fence is 13 1/2" and in front of the fixed front fence is 17 1/2", but I could squeeze another 1" if needed.
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1 - 20 of 21 Posts
