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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well it hasn't be sold yet so I'm gonna drive out to take a looksie. I liked the Rigid I saw at Home Depot, just wasn't keen on the fence. This person replaced that fence with the Vega. I don't know anything about the Vega but it looks very similar to the Beisemeyer fences I've seen.

Anyone know much about them?
 

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I have never used a Vega either but if it is a good fence you have a good deal going because that fence lists for over $400 all by itself. Here are 8 reviews on the fence.

One day I hope we have our own tool review section. If you buy this saw we will want a Tool Review on it and a seperate one on the fence after you have used it for a while if you don't mind.

Vega Fence Review
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well I guess it's back to the drawing board. Looks like it got sold out from under me. :(

The more I think about it... The more I'm leaning towards a hybrid saw anyways.
 

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Hi Rob

I live in Poland and cannot comment on American saws but in general...

Select a TS with Riving Knife...Splitter was dropped in Europe at the 60th...Riving Knife is safer, (you can forget about the term "Kickback") ,you shall not need the Anti-kickback pawl and you will not have to remove it for any operation except when you are using dado blade.

Select a TS with Induction Motor they are very quite (I can talk with my wife) and the Arbor is not part of the motor (the Universal motor is very noisy and the arbor is one part with the shaft).

If you have 230V in your shop, consider a 230V motor, it uses half the Amps (runs cooler) of 115V and you shall not need thick wires (but you will pay the same electric bill).

Don't be effected by the published HP (Horse Power), they are cheating, better look at the Amperage of the motor, multiply it by your Voltage (120V) and divide by 746 and you will get the almost real HP (almost, because the real output power of the motor is around 60%).

In Europe, they cannot cheat because the power of any machine must be presented in Watt (by law) that is Ampere x Volt.

A few days ago, I saw a shop-vac with "Pick 6 HP" and 11 Amps...I was impressed but...

6 HP x 746 = 4,476 W
4,476W : 120V = 37.3 Amps.....I don't think that you have such a Circuit breaker in your electric box....

But...well....we want to sell, don't we...:icon_smile:

Regards
niki
 

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Table Saw

I retired early to build custom furniture and I have a 3,200 square feet shop with lots of equipment.

The HEART of my shop are my two table saws. My primary table saw is a 30 year old Sears 12" with side and out feed extensions and upgraded "Vega" fence and "Excalaber" sliding table. I bought the saw new in 1976 and it still outperforms any saw you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot.

I have a second 10" Powermatic saw set up with a stack dado blade.

I have a Bosch job site saw that is good but not furniture grade.

I have attempted to buy Grizzly tools but when they are shipped by truck and are dammaged Grizzly turns into a BEAR when you try to return it------if you order the Grizzly if it arrives with any dammage----even a tear in the cardboard---- refuse it!!!!!!

If "Saw Stop" ever offers a 12" saw I'll add it to my shop.

If you have $600 to spend hold back $100 to buy a Freud blade-----than look for a used Sears 12" table saw or a used Powermatic 10"---Remember the quality of your table saw is visable in every project you build.
 

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I retired early to build custom furniture and I have a 3,200 square feet shop with lots of equipment.

The HEART of my shop are my two table saws. My primary table saw is a 30 year old Sears 12" with side and out feed extensions and upgraded "Vega" fence and "Excalaber" sliding table. I bought the saw new in 1976 and it still outperforms any saw you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot.

I have a second 10" Powermatic saw set up with a stack dado blade.

I have a Bosch job site saw that is good but not furniture grade.

I have attempted to buy Grizzly tools but when they are shipped by truck and are dammaged Grizzly turns into a BEAR when you try to return it------if you order the Grizzly if it arrives with any dammage----even a tear in the cardboard---- refuse it!!!!!!

If "Saw Stop" ever offers a 12" saw I'll add it to my shop.

If you have $600 to spend hold back $100 to buy a Freud blade-----than look for a used Sears 12" table saw or a used Powermatic 10"---Remember the quality of your table saw is visable in every project you build.
Wow... with a shop like that you're really rubbing it in! :D :)
I suppose you're going to tell us that it is air conditioned and never get below 76 degrees! :D :D

It's 103* right now & has been 107* today... and NO A/C!

It's too fricken HOT to get into my 10 x 16 cramped space some call Shops!

I'm kidding... of course... must be nice! :) :D

Thank you for the Grizzly tips... :D :)
 

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Although the shop sounds big it is sized to what we build and based on 35 years of making sawdust.

My first shop was about the size of your 10 x16. It took 35 years for me to get into the current shop and I spend 70-75 hours a week in it.

My current projects include a dining room (10 chairs, table and 14 foot china cabinet), a toy chest made from Bird's Eye Maple Veneer and quartersawn white oak ( I use a vacum press to lay up the veneer) a walnut desk and an Arts & Crafts Dresser (built the bed last year). We just completed a church alter that took 7 days to install.

I have never accepted payment for any work or material---I do it for family, friends and the love of sawdust.

Almost 1,000 feet are used for storage of lumber, finished work and components milled and waiting for assembly. The rest of the shop is production equipment.

And yes, after 27 consecutive days over 100-----I am glad it's air conditioned.

Regards,

Grandpa Sawdust
 

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Of the three choices that you provided above, I would choose the delta. I do like grizzley tools, but with this product line, I think delta has them beat. That big heavy, one piece cast iron table is beneficial IMO. If you could save up just a couple hundred more delta's hybrid saw is a nice little saw for the buck.

I run a Unisaw mysself. I've had longevity problems with jet tools.
Delta was made in Mississippi in the '90s so a used Unisaw would be great. I'm not sure if that is still true since B&D bought them. The exterior design has changed (modernized).

I have a Delta contractor's with a Unifence. Two things will make a lot of difference in the quaility of your cuts...get a heavy machined, cast table/extensions not stamped metal, and a good fence. Most contractor saws have really cheap fences.
 

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FWW is not giving Delta very good reviews lately....
Which is why - if you're determined to buy a Delta - you need to find an older one built before about 1995.

Better yet, BUY STEEL CITY!!!!

Nancy (107 days)
 

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Nope!!! Just very strongly believe in the machines, the company, and the people running that company. Just wait about 6 months or so, though, we might be on payroll. They have extended LOML and me a tentative offer to demonstrate their machines at woodworking shows all over the country--LOML on the big machines and me on the mini-lathe. If that happens, we'll be traveling all over the country. Hmmmm, I might get to meet some of you guys.

Nancy (107 days)
 

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I don't know. I have a 2 yr old Unisaw and it seems every bit as good as my late 80's delta. Good Biesemeyer fence, adjusted well, does a good job.
 

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tablesaw

i have a sixtys vintage delta unisaw w/ biesermeyer fence, on 220
I like older machine they are as a rule solid machines. most of my machine are early 1900 to the sixtys. Usually no vibration & quiet.
reasonably price as a rule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well all said and done... My purchase choice has changed several times over! In the past two weeks I had to pay to get our frige fixed and then we had to buy a new tv cause ours died. :( That didn't leave much in the coffers for a new table saw.

I think I just scored a decently priced, used Craftsman contractors saw though. I got for under $200 and it has been very well taken care of. I'll post more when I know more but I'm pretty happy so far.
 

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I bought a Ridgid 3650 new about a year ago. It's lived up to every claim Ridgid made. I live it. I've cut oak, walnut maple, dados, you name it and it did a great job. Good luck!
 

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Why do you prefer 220? I'm about to build a shop and am trying to decide if I should have 220 ran and if so how many plugs...
 

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Why do you prefer 220? I'm about to build a shop and am trying to decide if I should have 220 ran and if so how many plugs...
If you're running wire, definitely include 220v. It'll allow you to run bigger motors in the future, allows for thinner gauge wire (less expensive), and splits the load across two hot leads instead of one which not only helps balance out the amperage load (no lights dimming) but also helps just about any size motor run cooler, better, and have longer life due to less voltage loss.
 
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