Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I have a ridgid ts2412, and I take forever to get the damn fence parallel every time I make a cut because the fence isn't snug when it is unlocked, and the back of the fence can wiggle considerably when sliding it along the rails. The screws that hold it together are all snugged down and there are no loose parts to the fence, but the front of the fence can shift in/on the fence rail when it is not locked down. Once it's locked in place, it is solid, no play at all, but getting it in position is damn frustrating.

Does anyone have a fix for this? Do you even know what I'm trying to say? thanks for any info you may have
 

·
Sawdust Creator
Joined
·
8,046 Posts
If I recall, weren't there some nylon inserts to keep it snug? A photo of the underside of the fence might be helpful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Here are a few pics. I see the nylon tabs you're talking about. Don't have any extras, but not sure how that fixes the issue. Hmmm
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Maybe you need to tighten the nylock nut at the back so that when it's unlocked, there's not as much play? Another idea is to make sure you push towards the back when you lock it down. I have a really crappy Craftsman fence, and it's got gobs of side to side play, but if I push the front into the table as I lock it, it locks down square (as square as this thing can get anyway).

Acer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
I have a really crappy Craftsman fence, and it's got gobs of side to side play, but if I push the front into the table as I lock it, it locks down square (as square as this thing can get anyway).

Acer
If you have the manual I suspect it states, to push the fence against the bar before locking, somewhere within. I have seen so many of those saws sell because the manual was never read and sometimes read but not understood and after so much frustration out comes the for sale sign. Those saws aren't really as bad as some make them out to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
yup, the manual and the fence head (that's what the manual calls it) both say push forward on the fence before locking it down to square the fence, but if I do it this way it is usually off by about 20-30 thousandths. If i tighten the nut at the back, it makes it hard to slide the fence, and the lock handle hard to engage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
yup, the manual and the fence head (that's what the manual calls it) both say push forward on the fence before locking it down to square the fence, but if I do it this way it is usually off by about 20-30 thousandths. If i tighten the nut at the back, it makes it hard to slide the fence, and the lock handle hard to engage.
The old saws had an adjustment provided at the head to take care of that 20-30 thousandths. The nut at the back is secondary and shouldn't touch or clamp until after the head is slightly locked. This is a fine tune adjustment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,302 Posts
yup, the manual and the fence head (that's what the manual calls it) both say push forward on the fence before locking it down to square the fence, but if I do it this way it is usually off by about 20-30 thousandths. If i tighten the nut at the back, it makes it hard to slide the fence, and the lock handle hard to engage.
I have that same saw and fence. Read the OM again and follow the instructions carefully. My fence slides easily, locks EXACTLY parallel to the blade every time and is every bit as accurate and easy to use as the t2 I have on a related 113 series c-man. The rigid OEM fence is adjustable for blade parallelism, but it's a bit finicky, employing the four hex head screws that hold the fence to the fence head. Patience is required to set it up properly, but once done, it's a very reliable, accurate and easy to use fence system.

Your issues will probably be resolved via the tension adjustment nut on the out feed end of the fence and aligning it parallel to the blade per the OM using the hex head screws I mentioned above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
SandburRanch said:
The old saws had an adjustment provided at the head to take care of that 20-30 thousandths. The nut at the back is secondary and shouldn't touch or clamp until after the head is slightly locked. This is a fine tune adjustment.
I have the same saw and fence also. I agree it's probably the adjustment at the head that needs done. Probably the hex bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,931 Posts
yup, the manual and the fence head (that's what the manual calls it) both say push forward on the fence before locking it down to square the fence, but if I do it this way it is usually off by about 20-30 thousandths. If i tighten the nut at the back, it makes it hard to slide the fence, and the lock handle hard to engage.
Even though it makes it harder to push, does it help with the sloppiness when unlocked?

Personally I would rather have it a little loose and then have to micro-tune.

George
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I have the same saw and have not noticed any problems.

Have you tried a Sears part store for a replacement? Just look under any table saws that begin with 113.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top