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Old School
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My blade is off around a 1/16. I'm not sure its adjustable. Anybody know?
Before you have a coronary, make sure the saw is unplugged. Raise the blade all the way up. Make sure it's set at 90°. Then measure a specific tooth when it's at the front (near the table) to the left miter slot. Rotate the blade so that tooth is at the rear, and take a measurement to the left miter slot. Then compare the two dimensions.






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Looks like I need to check my blade to slot. Thanks CM.
When ripping, you only need to make sure the fence is parallel with the blade. Being slightly open (far end of fence farther away from blade) is not a problem. The reverse is.

When using anything that relies on the miter slots to guide it, your blade must be parallel to the miter slot. Obviously, having all three in perfect parallelism is ideal.

A tape measure won't give you the accuracy you need but a steel ruler that is accurately calibrated should do the trick. Oh, and a good set of eyes or a pair of cheaters helps too. ;)

I just spent the better part of two days aligning the world to the miter slots in my Delta contractor saw. My first rip of 12' of 5/4 African mahogany was a joy. I had to loosen all four trunnion bracket bolts to get things right. Contractor saws do not make this adjustment easy but with patience it can be done.
 

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Old School
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OK CM. I'll do some more measuring tonight or tomorrow.
While you are doing your measuring, and you can use a tape measure, it stands to reason you want the fence parallel to both the miter slot and the blade.

So, to complete the measuring, measure from the miter slot to the fence, at the front and back. I'm suggesting to set the fence parallel...that is no toe in or toe out. It looks like your fence has bolts at the top (and possibly at the back) that can be used for adjustment.

After you get the blade parallel to the miter slot, and the fence parallel to both the miter slot and the blade, check to see if the right miter slot is parallel to the left one.






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