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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My saw uses 10" blades.

Is there much difference in quality of blade? And if so, what are the best ones to get? (brand and model, etc.)
 

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There is a huge difference in blade quality in terms of cut quality, sharpness of teeth, the ability to sharpen a blade, stiffness, etc. many people here use Freud blades, which can be very good. I just purchased the Freud glue line ripping blade, and it does a fantastic job and leaves an incredibly smooth cut. I also use a forest WW2 combo blade and it also does a very nice job.

Many woodworkers will do well to start off with a good quality combo blade and leave it on the saw most of the time. Others will swear by using the correct blade for the cut. For example, my new Freud ripping blade is horrible for cross cutting, while the combo blade is good for both ripping and cross cutting.

If you're shopping at a box store, you will be happy with a nice Freud blade, they are typically in the $50-70 range for a 10" blade. The Forest blade is about double that price. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Other than tooth count, what's the difference between these?

Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating - Amazon.com

Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating - Amazon.com



There is a huge difference in blade quality in terms of cut quality, sharpness of teeth, the ability to sharpen a blade, stiffness, etc. many people here use Freud blades, which can be very good. I just purchased the Freud glue line ripping blade, and it does a fantastic job and leaves an incredibly smooth cut. I also use a forest WW2 combo blade and it also does a very nice job.
 

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What kind of saw do you have, jobsite, contractor, or cabinet type? What materials do you cut? The Diablo in the first link is a thin kerf blade which works well for saws that can run on 110v, or lower power saws since it removes less material it requires less power to run. Good blade, really don't think you'd be disappointed. The Fusion is a top line full thickness kerf and plate blade and should really be used in a 3hp saw, but would work well in a lighter duty saw on materials and cuts appropriate to that combination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't notice the Kerf difference, thanks.

I mostly cut MDF, but I also cut some plywood. It's usually 3/4" birch.

The saw I use:
Bosch 4100-09 10-Inch Worksite Table Saw with Gravity-Rise Stand - Amazon.com



What kind of saw do you have, jobsite, contractor, or cabinet type? What materials do you cut? The Diablo in the first link is a thin kerf blade which works well for saws that can run on 110v, or lower power saws since it removes less material it requires less power to run. Good blade, really don't think you'd be disappointed. The Fusion is a top line full thickness kerf and plate blade and should really be used in a 3hp saw, but would work well in a lighter duty saw on materials and cuts appropriate to that combination.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I think I'll stick to full kerf, because of the accurate measurements built into the table saw. ;) I assume the default blade is full kerf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can I also convert the measurements on the saw table that show where the fence is positioned, so it matches for the thin kerf blade?

For that saw you will be much better served and get better performance with thin kerf blades.
 

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Okay, now I've read most of your blog and I looked over the blade list. You didn't have a 10" TCG listed, should this be decent? (For MDF.)

Freud LU82M010 10-Inch 60 Tooth TCG Crosscutting and Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor - Amazon.com

Thanks!
Yes. MDF is easy to get a smooth cut in, but is very abrasive, and a triple chip grind has excellent edge life. The LU82 is an excellent choice for MDF, though it won't crosscut as cleanly in some materials as an ATB or Hi-ATB grind.

The full kerf is only 1/32" wider, but that accounts for a 33% increase, which will put proportionately more strain on the motor. The Bosch will spin the full kerf well in MDF, but will struggle more in thicker more dense materials, in which cases switching to a lower tooth count blade with an aggressive hook angle is recommended.
 

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That blade caught my eye as well icor. I think you may wish you had a thin kerf if that full kerf starts dragging your saw down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Welcome! I mostly build speaker boxes and tables. What about you?

I think I'll stick to the full kerf, unless that wixey digital readout can compensate. I assume I get to zero them, so it might be just fine.

By the way, I suggest dumping the tape measure for a thin ruler... If you make narrow cuts.


Tape measure :). I'm a new guy also.
 

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I mostly fix things around the house. Projects like a chicken house/4h box or whatever as they come up. Been setting up a decent budget shop for awhile. Buying used machines takes time to clean them up and get it all dialed in. Now I need to start getting rid of my excess crap and put everything in place. I want mobile bases so I'm holding out until my wife is in the right mood for me to spend a few $100!
 

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Here's my new Ridge Carbide 12" arrived yesterday





I also have a 12" Freud Fusion .001 run out, and a 12" Forrest WW2 which I'm returning due to its .008 run out.
 
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