[Rebelwork]

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[kindanewbie]

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That looks amazing. I honestly never thought about the continuity of the grain on the apron-drawer-apron but now I cant not notice it.

is the rest of the table, aside from the door solid or veneer?

 

[DrRobert]

I dont understand. I make the cuts and the drawer front is 10x1.5
Glue it all back together with drawer in place, tight. Remove the drawer front and make the drawer.
At this point its a box with all side flush. So regarding the front, the left a d right side will have half blind DTs connecting it to the sides.
How do you then take off 3/32?

Hand plane.

 

[kindanewbie]

Hand plane.

Im definitely not following.
Make the cuts and the drawer is 10x1.5.
Then build the drawer, with half blind DT.
Then plane 3/16 off each side.

So, when building the drawer, I guess must start with stock that is 3/16 thicker than what you want as a final thickness?

Is that really the standard way of doing a drawer? Thats a lot to plane off, no?

 

[Tom-G]

Cut the 3/32 off of the drawer front first, and cut the drawer back to the same length as the front, then cut the dovetails. That’s for the side clearance. For the top and bottom edges of the drawer front, after the drawer is built use a plane to bevel the front edge slightly to create the gap.

 

[kindanewbie]

Cut the 3/32 off of the drawer front first, and cut the drawer back to the same length as the front, then cut the dovetails. That’s for the side clearance. For the top and bottom edges of the drawer front, after the drawer is built use a plane to bevel the front edge slightly to create the gap.

So, cut the 3/32 off the left and right, but not the top, leaving the top to be planed at the end?

First question is, this is 3/32 off each side, right ? not 3/32 total (3/64) per side.

Also, if cutting the 3/32 makes sense for the sides, why not do the top the same way? What is the reasoning behind that process?

 

[Rebelwork]

So, cut the 3/32 off the left and right, but not the top, leaving the top to be planed at the end?

First question is, this is 3/32 off each side, right ? not 3/32 total (3/64) per side.

Also, if cutting the 3/32 makes sense for the sides, why not do the top the same way? What is the reasoning behind that process?

Starting to sound complicated…

 

[Rebelwork]

Not sure if anything from here will help..

Mission tables

Upload your furniture project images in this category.

thepatriotwoodworker.com

 

[DrRobert]

So, cut the 3/32 off the left and right, but not the top, leaving the top to be planed at the end?

First question is, this is 3/32 off each side, right ? not 3/32 total (3/64) per side.

Also, if cutting the 3/32 makes sense for the sides, why not do the top the same way? What is the reasoning behind that process?

The fronts are the exact dimensions of the opening. You build the drawer off of the front, then plane the sides, top and bottom accordingly to give the gap. The 3/32 gap is all the way around. Tip: use a shoulder or rabbet plane on the bottom of the drawer front.

If you cut the front with a gap to start & then build the drawer you’ll have trouble. This I know😉

Do you have a hand plane?

 

[Tom-G]

So, cut the 3/32 off the left and right, but not the top, leaving the top to be planed at the end?

First question is, this is 3/32 off each side, right ? not 3/32 total (3/64) per side.

Also, if cutting the 3/32 makes sense for the sides, why not do the top the same way? What is the reasoning behind that process?

I only cut 3/32 off of one side. After glue up that allows for an additional 3/32 that can be planed off when fitting/adjusting in the opening. That is the total amount of leeway so that some can be taken off each side if needed to cleanup the dovetails.

I don’t cut the top. When fitting the drawer into the opening I carefully plane the top to create the gap which allows me to adjust for any variation in the opening.

 

[kindanewbie]

The fronts are the exact dimensions of the opening. You build the drawer off of the front, then plane the sides, top and bottom accordingly to give the gap. The 3/32 gap is all the way around. Tip: use a shoulder or rabbet plane on the bottom of the drawer front.

If you cut the front with a gap to start & then build the drawer you’ll have trouble. This I know😉

Do you have a hand plane?

I guess it just seems more intuitive to shave 3/32 off of each side of the front and then build the drawer. But the more I let it sink in, it makes more sense.

I have a #5 and #5.5 plus some block planes. but no shoulder or rabbet. Althought im trying to think why a shoulder/rabbet would be better for the bottom of the drawer.

 

[DrRobert]

It leaves no room to fit the drawer. See @Tom-G ’s post that‘s another way to go.

 

[Rebelwork]

....few more.

 

[kindanewbie]

I think I made a mistake with the height of the drawer. the apron is 3" tall. So my top and bottom rails are 3/4 and my drawer height is 1 1/2
Not the worst because the intent for this type of table would be for chess pieces so maybe it fits the application (like the drawers on an old typesetter's table would be very thin).
But, I didnt account for 3/16 top and bottom, or the dado/drawer bottom.
I should have made the drawer the full 3" in height.
I guess I'll tell people that the drawer is there to hold a score card.

 

[DrRobert]

Full height drawers are a bit tricky b/c you need internal support. The table below has a 3” apron and 2” drawer depth. Note the brace across the bottom.

For clarification I’m sure it was a typo 😁 — drawer bottoms go in grooves, not dados. Dados are cross grain grooves, rabbets are along an edge.

 

[Rebelwork]

You only need a 1/16 around the drawer.. on some I just put a 1/16 veneer strip for them to ride on. On others, I’ll put a dado in.the least challenging will be the veneer strip…

 

[kindanewbie]

Oh

Full height drawers are a bit tricky b/c you need internal support. The table below has a 3” apron and 2” drawer depth. Note the brace across the bottom.

For clarification I’m sure it was a typo 😁 — drawer bottoms go in grooves, not dados. Dados are cross grain grooves, rabbets are along an edge.

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Oh yeah. Typo. I totally knew the difference between a dado and... a dado cut with the grain.
And I see, and, in my case with a drawer in front and back, Id have to separate sections without the hidden front rail.
One thing I dont get... why is the side and runner not at a 90 to the front? The drawer must be square or it wouldnt come out. But not being at a 90, the drawer wouldnt even ride on the runner. Is it just the angle?

 

[kindanewbie]

You only need a 1/16 around the drawer.. on some I just put a 1/16 veneer strip for them to ride on. On others, I’ll put a dado in.the least challenging will be the veneer strip…

Im not sure what you mean. do you mean a veneer strip as the bottom of the drawer?

 

[DrRobert]

It’s a bow front table. 1/4 ply bottom.

 

[builtinbkyn2]

Please “esplain”. Where did the two drawers come from and why were they not in their glides? All the components of that table are from two drawers?