[kindanewbie]

Im looking to make a table with two drawers, one on each side. I cant find a diagram for the proper frame for this. The dimensions are:

• table top: 22.5"x22.5"
• apron height: 3"... Kinda small so if needed I can go bigger but thats the dimension of the wood I am using.
• drawer widths: approx 8" (so the two aprons on either side of the drawer would be about 3.5" after accounting for overhang and leg width)

Because the apron is fairly short in height, the drawer rails would be 3/4 on their side? So a side with the drawer would be layed out as...? :

leg (2" width) + apron(3.5"w X 3"h) + top and bottom drawer rails (3/4"x3"x8" on thier sides) + apron(3.5"w X 3"h) + leg (2" width)

Mortise/tenon between leg and apron. What kind of connection between apron and rails? If the 3/4 on its side is correct, I assume a dovetail.

The in order to do a flush drawer it would either need to be 1.5 in height (to fit between the two rails) or, recessed into the rails.

Close?

 

[DrRobert]

Not sure what you mean by drawer rails - what they slide on? They are called runners. Depends on how the table is constructed but in your case you would mortise them into the apron.

The apron starts full size and the parts are cut out. This produces an apron with drawer fronts that have grain continuity and an appealing design.

You start by ripping 3/4" strips top and bottom. Then cut the drawer fronts out of the center section. Glue everything but the drawer fronts back together. Insert the drawer fronts in while gluing. This makes the opening for the drawer front very tight to allow for future fitting. The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made.

A lot of people do a sliding dovetail, I have never done that, I use haunched tenons. On most tables I will pin them.

Here's what I'm talking about, they are offset drawers, but you get the idea. If you're getting into more advanced ww'ing, you should think about a subscription to FineWoodworking. They have lots of project videos and articles.

 

[Tom-G]

I can’t find a link to it now, but look for a Fine Woodworking article from the May/June 1998 issue. It’s titled something like “engineering a table…”. That article shows all the parts for a table with drawer(s) and how to assemble the table.

 

[kindanewbie]

Not sure what you mean by drawer rails - what they slide on? They are called runners. Depends on how the table is constructed but in your case you would mortise them into the apron.

The apron starts full size and the parts are cut out. This produces an apron with drawer fronts that have grain continuity and an appealing design.

You start by ripping 3/4" strips top and bottom. Then cut the drawer fronts out of the center section. Glue everything but the drawer fronts back together. Insert the drawer fronts in while gluing. This makes the opening for the drawer front very tight to allow for future fitting. The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made.

A lot of people do a sliding dovetail, I have never done that, I use haunched tenons. On most tables I will pin them.

Here's what I'm talking about, they are offset drawers, but you get the idea. If you're getting into more advanced ww'ing, you should think about a subscription to FineWoodworking. They have lots of project videos and articles.

View attachment 448968

Ahh, now I see.
When i said drawer rails, I was referring to what is called top and bottom apron strips in this diagram. A differrent article i read diagrammed them as drawer rails.

"The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made."
Do you mean on the opposite side of the table, for the other drawer, so that both can be connected square?

And I was thinking about two drawers on each side, too

 

[kindanewbie]

I can’t find a link to it now, but look for a Fine Woodworking article from the May/June 1998 issue. It’s titled something like “engineering a table…”. That article shows all the parts for a table with drawer(s) and how to assemble the table.

yeah, they want me to pay. Im thnking about it

 

[kindanewbie]

Ahh, now I see.
When i said drawer rails, I was referring to what is called top and bottom apron strips in this diagram. A differrent article i read diagrammed them as drawer rails.

"The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made."
Do you mean on the opposite side of the table, for the other drawer, so that both can be connected square?

And I was thinking about two drawers on each side, too

i just realized this is a bit different than I envisioned, but should be fine, and probably nicer visually. My initial thought was no visible apron above/below the drawer. In that case, Im assuming the drawer would be recessed into top and bottom apron strips... otherwise the table would be two separate pieces.

But with top and bottom strips at 3/4, this create a drawer that is 1.5 in height. Which for this table, is perfect.

 

[kindanewbie]

The apron starts full size and the parts are cut out. This produces an apron with drawer fronts that have grain continuity and an appealing design.

So thats how Ikea gets everything perfectly matched!

 

[kindanewbie]

So, if veneering then the drawer front would be veneered or... cut the drawer and apron from a solid piece, then cut the veneer for the aprons, leaving the drawer solid?

 

[DrRobert]

Do you mean on the opposite side of the table, for the other drawer, so that both can be connected square?

👍

Re: You would veneer the whole apron and cut it up as before. Or drawer fronts can be different/contrasting wood to the apron. If you veneer a drawer front it should be cockbeaded to protect the edges.

Remember shoulder to shoulder is what matters. It’s shoulder + tenon ans the tenon length doesn’t have to be exact, in fact leve then 1/32 short and chamfer the edges for glue squeeze out.

When scribing the shoulders, clamp opposing aprons together and mark as one, then transfer lines all the way around. I’ve switched over to floating tenons so I don’t have to worry about it or fitting tenons anymore 😁

 

[kindanewbie]

a solid drawer front seems much simpler

3/8 for sides and back, 1/2 front, 1/4 ply for bottom?

 

[kindanewbie]

👍

Re: You would veneer the whole apron and cut it up as before. Or drawer fronts can be different/contrasting wood to the apron. If you veneer a drawer front it should be cockbeaded to protect the edges.

Remember shoulder to shoulder is what matters. It’s shoulder + tenon ans the tenon length doesn’t have to be exact, in fact leve then 1/32 short and chamfer the edges for glue squeeze out.

When scribing the shoulders, clamp opposing aprons together and mark as one, then transfer lines all the way around. I’ve switched over to floating tenons so I don’t have to worry about it or fitting tenons anymore 😁

and then both ends of the floating tenon get pinned? from inside (not visible) or outside (visible) I guess depends on the situation?

 

[DrRobert]

and then both ends of the floating tenon get pinned? from inside (not visible) or outside (visible) I guess depends on the situation?

Usually outside. Harder to pin from inside, but some do it. Two types, simple pin and draw bore. Draw bore is never really necessary, it’s used when the joint is not glued. Best example is a breadboard end. Pinning is a personal choice, some do it to for strenghten, some for decorative, or to mimic antiques. Much antique furniture was pinned, my theory is the hide glue might not have always been the best quality. Quite a bit of furniture was not glued at all, but draw bore pinned. Lots of sliding dovetails, too.

Properly done, there is not real need of pinning, especially with modern glues. Always remember never extend the mortise full depth all the way through the top of the leg - very important. 😉

Floating tenons are a bit of a misnomer, as they are glued in place and do not actually “float”.

 

[kindanewbie]

Usually outside. Harder to pin from inside, but some do it. Two types, simple pin and draw bore. Draw bore is never really necessary, it’s used when the joint is not glued. Best example is a breadboard end. Pinning is a personal choice, some do it to for strenghten, some for decorative, or to mimic antiques. Much antique furniture was pinned, my theory is the hide glue might not have always been the best quality. Quite a bit of furniture was not glued at all, but draw bore pinned. Lots of sliding dovetails, too.

Properly done, there is not real need of pinning, especially with modern glues. Always remember never extend the mortise full depth all the way through the top of the leg - very important. 😉

Floating tenons are a bit of a misnomer, as they are glued in place and do not actually “float”.

unless you draw bore both ends of the floating tenon?--Ive been fascinated since I first read about it years ago, just never had an application for it. Considering pinning as I will likely be painting the legs black--if so might give a nice look. Plus I suspect that my mortices might end up a tad less than a perfect.

 

[kindanewbie]

Not sure what you mean by drawer rails - what they slide on? They are called runners. Depends on how the table is constructed but in your case you would mortise them into the apron.

The apron starts full size and the parts are cut out. This produces an apron with drawer fronts that have grain continuity and an appealing design.

You start by ripping 3/4" strips top and bottom. Then cut the drawer fronts out of the center section. Glue everything but the drawer fronts back together. Insert the drawer fronts in while gluing. This makes the opening for the drawer front very tight to allow for future fitting. The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made.

A lot of people do a sliding dovetail, I have never done that, I use haunched tenons. On most tables I will pin them.

Here's what

Not sure what you mean by drawer rails - what they slide on? They are called runners. Depends on how the table is constructed but in your case you would mortise them into the apron.

The apron starts full size and the parts are cut out. This produces an apron with drawer fronts that have grain continuity and an appealing design.

You start by ripping 3/4" strips top and bottom. Then cut the drawer fronts out of the center section. Glue everything but the drawer fronts back together. Insert the drawer fronts in while gluing. This makes the opening for the drawer front very tight to allow for future fitting. The rear apron is cut to the same size as the front and the tenons are made.

A lot of people do a sliding dovetail, I have never done that, I use haunched tenons. On most tables I will pin them.

Here's what I'm talking about, they are offset drawers, but you get the idea. If you're getting into more advanced ww'ing, you should think about a subscription to FineWoodworking. They have lots of project videos and articles.

View attachment 448968

When gluing back together, should any spacers surround the drawer front, or butt it all up tight. And then make adjustments if needed to the drawer front when making the drawer.
I dont hav any flush drawers here but Im assuming in the end there will be abou 1/16 all around?

 

[DrRobert]

Insert the drawer fronts in the spaces when clamping, no gaps.

After glue up, plane the drawer front so it just fits, then build the drawer according to it. Do a final fit with the drawer assembled. The only variant from that would be if you're doing an applied front. Most furniture is going to look better with an integral front, standard is half blind DT's.

1/16 is a little tight but ok on a drawer that narrow. I usually shoot for 3/32.

 

[Rebelwork]

Are we trying to....

 

[kindanewbie]

Insert the drawer fronts in the spaces when clamping, no gaps.

After glue up, plane the drawer front so it just fits, then build the drawer according to it. Do a final fit with the drawer assembled. The only variant from that would be if you're doing an applied front. Most furniture is going to look better with an integral front, standard is half blind DT's.

1/16 is a little tight but ok on a drawer that narrow. I usually shoot for 3/32.

Yes, I am doing an integral front with half bling DTs. One thing I dont get though. The drawer has 0 clearance at this point so plane it so it just fits... but should have 3/32 all around? When you say "just fits" does that mean 3/32 gap? Because once DTs are cut it cant be planed again.

 

[kindanewbie]

Are we trying to....
View attachment 449477 View attachment 449479

Yes!!
Looks great all set up.

 

[DrRobert]

The 3/32 is after the drawer is built.

 

[kindanewbie]

The 3/32 is after the drawer is built.

I dont understand. I make the cuts and the drawer front is 10x1.5
Glue it all back together with drawer in place, tight. Remove the drawer front and make the drawer.
At this point its a box with all side flush. So regarding the front, the left a d right side will have half blind DTs connecting it to the sides.
How do you then take off 3/32?