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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I thought that you were using the magnets to permanently to hold the squares to the board (vs glue) I would dislike playing chess when I had to move a piece that was held in place by a magnet.

George
Oh no, because the surface of the board will be uneven, the chess pieces might not stand up on their own in some spaces.
 

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Forstener bits have a center spike - be fareful with that on your thin sections - I hat to grind my bit's spike off when using it on a cabinet hinge recess.
 
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When you install your magnets in the board and in the pieces, be sure you have the poles aligned properly in each piece so they will attract (not repel) and make sure they’re all the same!!

If you’re using rare earth magnets, you could probably get away with a magnet in each space on the board and a piece of steel in each chess piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
When you install your magnets in the board and in the pieces, be sure you have the poles aligned properly in each piece so they will attract (not repel) and make sure they’re all the same!!

If you’re using rare earth magnets, you could probably get away with a magnet in each space on the board and a piece of steel in each chess piece.
Thanks! I was already debating between magnet pairs and magnet/steel but I think this point is the deciding factor. Probably best to avoid the polarity issue altogether if I can since I'm prone to making stupid mistakes lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The riser post is a piece of wood attached to the bed of the drill press that is smaller than the bed.
In your case if i assume that the squares are 1.5 x 1.5 inches than I wood make a post 1x1 x 2 inches tall and you can set each piece on the post and consistently stop the drill .125 from pocking through no matter how tall the piece is.
I was thinking about this today and realized that perpendicularity is a bigger issue than I originally thought. If when drilling the hole for the magnet, the angle is off enough, the magnet might not end up in the center of the square. I think a simple enough solution to this is to partially drill all of the holes with a regular drill and drill guide and then switch over to the lathe to finish them off. Does this sound like a pretty solid solution? Any input on how deep the "guide hole" should be drilled? Would a quarter inch be enough?
 

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You are over thinking this. If you want the magnets center to the block all you need to do is locate the drill so it is center on the post and locate the block in the center of the post and no mater what the angle is it will be center at the bottom of the hole. The question is where is center of the block? Center of the flat or center of the actual size of the square. TEST PIECE
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
You are over thinking this. If you want the magnets center to the block all you need to do is locate the drill so it is center on the post and locate the block in the center of the post and no mater what the angle is it will be center at the bottom of the hole. The question is where is center of the block? Center of the flat or center of the actual size of the square. TEST PIECE
I see I see. You’re right. Thank you.
 
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