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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I'm getting ready to finish up a chessboard that is pretty unique in that I made it with the goal of it looking like natural terrain rather than your standard flat chessboard (so some of the spaces are half an inch thick while others are over 2 inches thick). I didn't plan it out very well and made some very amateur mistakes (I am an amateur woodworker at best). Because of the mistakes that I made, I want to try again but with a drastically different method that I realized I should've done the first time. This new method is to make a standard flat chessboard, but very thick, and powercarve the terrain that I want.

The biggest mistake I made was not coming to the forums for advice before starting and I don't want to make that mistake again. I'm still just thinking about it at the moment so I'll post again when I'm getting ready to buy the wood, but the question I have right now is as follows. What is the best way to incorporate magnets in a chessboard like this (so that I don't have to worry so much about the spaces being flat)? The only solution I have come up with is to carefully measure the thickness of each space and drill from the underside of the chessboard to place the magnets at the appropriate depth. This is probably the best approach but there are sixty four spaces which is a lot of tedious measuring and drilling so I thought it would be a good idea to reach out here and see if I'm missing a better idea.

Attached are some picture of the current attempt at this idea at an earlier stage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think power carving the assembled board will look better. I have never done it, but I agree with your idea of drilling from the bottom. You would probably want to buy or make calipers like this to easily measure the thickness of the wood.
That is a fantastic idea, thank you! I was thinking I would have to have a board on top and measure down from that board and then do math.
 

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Hello all,

I'm getting ready to finish up a chessboard that is pretty unique in that I made it with the goal of it looking like natural terrain rather than your standard flat chessboard (so some of the spaces are half an inch thick while others are over 2 inches thick). I didn't plan it out very well and made some very amateur mistakes (I am an amateur woodworker at best). Because of the mistakes that I made, I want to try again but with a drastically different method that I realized I should've done the first time. This new method is to make a standard flat chessboard, but very thick, and powercarve the terrain that I want.

The biggest mistake I made was not coming to the forums for advice before starting and I don't want to make that mistake again. I'm still just thinking about it at the moment so I'll post again when I'm getting ready to buy the wood, but the question I have right now is as follows. What is the best way to incorporate magnets in a chessboard like this (so that I don't have to worry so much about the spaces being flat)? The only solution I have come up with is to carefully measure the thickness of each space and drill from the underside of the chessboard to place the magnets at the appropriate depth. This is probably the best approach but there are sixty four spaces which is a lot of tedious measuring and drilling so I thought it would be a good idea to reach out here and see if I'm missing a better idea.

Attached are some picture of the current attempt at this idea at an earlier stage.
Drilling from the underside would be he way to go. Why is measuring/distance such a consideration. May I do not understand that because I do not know what you are doing with the magnets.

george
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drilling from the underside would be he way to go. Why is measuring/distance such a consideration. May I do not understand that because I do not know what you are doing with the magnets.

george
My problem with this is that I'm going to want the magnets to be a consistent distance from the surface (top of chessboard) of the space (they will be attracting metal/magnet based chess pieces so that the chess piece holds itself nicely in the middle of the space). However, because the spaces have varying thicknesses, the distance that the magnet will have to be placed from the underside of the chessboard will also vary meaning not only will I have to measure the thickness of 64 spaces and drill 64 times, but I'll also have to adjust the depth I'm drilling every single time. I probably just sound lazy and maybe I am lol, but I figured I should check with people who know a lot more than I do to see if there's a less tedious method.
 

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The riser post is a piece of wood attached to the bed of the drill press that is smaller than the bed.
In your case if i assume that the squares are 1.5 x 1.5 inches than I wood make a post 1x1 x 2 inches tall and you can set each piece on the post and consistently stop the drill .125 from pocking through no matter how tall the piece is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The riser post is a piece of wood attached to the bed of the drill press that is smaller than the bed.
In your case if i assume that the squares are 1.5 x 1.5 inches than I wood make a post 1x1 x 2 inches tall and you can set each piece on the post and consistently stop the drill .125 from pocking through no matter how tall the piece is.
Brilliant! Thank you for the idea and the explanation. I might be able to figure this one out on my own (or just hold it steady with my free hand) but is there an elegant solution to keep the rest of the chessboard steady while I'm drilling the various spaces on the stop block?
 

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Brilliant! Thank you for the idea and the explanation. I might be able to figure this one out on my own (or just hold it steady with my free hand) but is there an elegant solution to keep the rest of the chessboard steady while I'm drilling the various spaces on the stop block?
That would be difficult in your case because of the different thicknesses of the board. The riser post is a good simply idea. All the down force will be right on the post, should be relatively easy to keep the board steady. You could tape a circular level to the underside to give a little reference to level. They won’t add stability, but they will help keep the board level.
 

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My problem with this is that I'm going to want the magnets to be a consistent distance from the surface (top of chessboard) of the space (they will be attracting metal/magnet based chess pieces so that the chess piece holds itself nicely in the middle of the space). However, because the spaces have varying thicknesses, the distance that the magnet will have to be placed from the underside of the chessboard will also vary meaning not only will I have to measure the thickness of 64 spaces and drill 64 times, but I'll also have to adjust the depth I'm drilling every single time. I probably just sound lazy and maybe I am lol, but I figured I should check with people who know a lot more than I do to see if there's a less tedious method.
My brain is still dense. Do not understand why such exact thickness is needed.

gmc
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My brain is still dense. Do not understand why such exact thickness is needed.

gmc
No worries, happens to the best of us.

I want the distance from the magnet to the surface to be consistent so that it has a consistent attraction to the chess pieces which will have magnets in their bases. If the magnet is strong enough to gently hold a chess piece in place at a distance of 2 inches (distance from the bottom of the chess piece to the magnet buried in the wood) then that same magnet will be so strong at a distance of 1/4 inch that it'll be difficult (or less easy) to lift a piece from the space that has the magnet 2 inches deep. At least... that's what I would expect from my limited knowledge of magnets.
 

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Since the magnets will be hidden, I would think that consistency would better than parallelism.
I agree. Not only that but, I would expect that you desire each magnet to be centered in each square. If you drill straight in from the backside, the start point for your hole will also be centered. (as shown by "B" and "C"). If you drill at angle, in order to place the magnet parallel to the playing surface, then you will need to calculate the start point at the backside to end up with the magnet centered in the square near the playing surface. ( as shown by "A")
Font Parallel Slope Diagram Handwriting
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I agree. Not only that but, I would expect that you desire each magnet to be centered in each square. If you drill straight in from the backside, the start point for your hole will also be centered. (as shown by "B" and "C"). If you drill at angle, in order to place the magnet parallel to the playing surface, then you will need to calculate the start point at the backside to end up with the magnet centered in the square near the playing surface. ( as shown by "A")
That's a good point. Thanks!
 

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I have played chess on and off over 60 years, the idea of a chessboard that is not flat has zero appeal to me.

Your 3D notion might fit something else better. Or make up your own game entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have played chess on and off over 60 years, the idea of a chessboard that is not flat has zero appeal to me.

Your 3D notion might fit something else better. Or make up your own game entirely.
Fortunately, this chessboard for chess is just for me! Unless someone sees it, loves it, and asks me to make one for them, I'll just be making as many as it takes to get my vision right.
 

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I thought that you were using the magnets to permanently to hold the squares to the board (vs glue) I would dislike playing chess when I had to move a piece that was held in place by a magnet.

George
 
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