Stupid question of the day...
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stupid question.....
hey, just chiming in here... no experience making that kind of board, but many other projects that ive had to learn the hard way with as far as finishes go... my first question to you would be; what kind of finish are you using? because depending on the finish used, you may not have a problem. if you were to use a hand rubbed oil typ finish such as linseed oil, there is very little build up there as the oils are soaked into the wood. but if you were to use a polyurethane, you could significantly seal up the holes as thats more of a high build type finish meant to create an actual clear coat that sits on top of the finished product.
long story short, it all depends, but here we come to my second question; whats the harm in taking a scrap piece of the wood you are using and trying out different finishes and procedures? ive learned that when in doubt, test it out! scrap peices are invaluable in my experience, not just for testing finishes, but i have also tested glues, resins, wear tolerances over time such as in a drawer and cabinet, and screw thread strength depending on the type of project...
i have recently tried my hand at something new and completely out of my experience range by attempting to make a three peice takedown bow, and ive learned a lot in the still ongoing process, the biggest was to test things out that im not sure of.
not sure that ive passed any real info on here or not, but hopefully this helps nudge you on and get you going in the right direction. take care, and dont be afraid to post some pics!
hey, just chiming in here... no experience making that kind of board, but many other projects that ive had to learn the hard way with as far as finishes go... my first question to you would be; what kind of finish are you using? because depending on the finish used, you may not have a problem. if you were to use a hand rubbed oil typ finish such as linseed oil, there is very little build up there as the oils are soaked into the wood. but if you were to use a polyurethane, you could significantly seal up the holes as thats more of a high build type finish meant to create an actual clear coat that sits on top of the finished product.
long story short, it all depends, but here we come to my second question; whats the harm in taking a scrap piece of the wood you are using and trying out different finishes and procedures? ive learned that when in doubt, test it out! scrap peices are invaluable in my experience, not just for testing finishes, but i have also tested glues, resins, wear tolerances over time such as in a drawer and cabinet, and screw thread strength depending on the type of project...
i have recently tried my hand at something new and completely out of my experience range by attempting to make a three peice takedown bow, and ive learned a lot in the still ongoing process, the biggest was to test things out that im not sure of.
not sure that ive passed any real info on here or not, but hopefully this helps nudge you on and get you going in the right direction. take care, and dont be afraid to post some pics!
Thanks for the input Fensty. I am working with a beautiful piece of walnut so I don't plan to use any stains, just maybe like you said, rub some oil on it but I would like to seal it some how. I thought about poly and thats when I got worried about clogging the holes. I thought trying to spray light coats of poly or something. I don't know, but I will try out some things on scrap like you suggested.
Thanks
Thanks
As far as plugging the holes it shouldn't matter honestly. Even using poly, unless you are putting on more than 3 coats or applying it too think to begin with, I don't see an issue. Besides, if they do plug a bit, you can just drill out the little bit of debris in a quick second or two.
That said, I suggest against drilling after the finish is applied because the wood debris spinning around the bit can scratch the finish. If, however, you have your heart set on drilling after finishing, just wait until the finish is 100% dry (or cured, depending on what you use) then put a strip of painter's tape over where you want to drill and mark your hole on the tape and drill through that. That will minimize risk of marring the finish.
Good luck!
That said, I suggest against drilling after the finish is applied because the wood debris spinning around the bit can scratch the finish. If, however, you have your heart set on drilling after finishing, just wait until the finish is 100% dry (or cured, depending on what you use) then put a strip of painter's tape over where you want to drill and mark your hole on the tape and drill through that. That will minimize risk of marring the finish.
Good luck!
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I would apply the finish afterwards. I have made only two cribbage boards, but in both cases I had some tearout in drilling the holes.
I learned a lot with the first board, so less tearout on the second, but still some. I used sharp brad point drill bits and turned up the speed.
Hence I needed to sand down the board after drilling the holes.
I did not worry about any finish getting into the holes. The pegs are tapered and should not get stuck in the holes.
I drilled holes at the end for storing the pins. Stained small wood knobs with a dowel for the plug.
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7,222 Posts
This would be better as a separate thread in the Power Tools forum.
A picture of the present router bit will help folks understand what you purchased.
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I would put the finish on after drilling the holes. I think the wood needs to be sanded after the holes are drilled even if you use a brad point drill bit. Anyway if you do manage to get too much finish in some of the holes you can re-drill the finish out of the holes.
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I would drill the holes first. Applying the finish after would give the opportunity to fix any problems.
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