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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a drill press off craigslist for $100, the previous owner had kept it under his raised house and it was incredibly rusty (Houston humidity). I love seeing these tools on craigslist because the owners think they're broken and worthless but with a day or two of elbow grease and $10 in bearings they run better than new. I've restored several tools because of this :)

I spent the better part of yesterday dissembling the drill and removing the cast iron body from the column. Getting the column off the base is a different story though. This thing is completely stuck to the base and wont budge. I tried every method I've ever used on previous restores from car jacks to torching. My next idea is one I havent yet tried before, I'm going to drill a hole through the column, tap it, thread a rod through it and slide a 2x4 inside the tube and bang it out from the bottom. Here is a drawing. (Please excuse the crudity of this model. I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it.)





My question is, what is the best place to put this hole. I plan on tapping the hole, threading a screw and just cutting it off on the ends when I'm done so I don't weaken the column at all. Is this okay to do? Unnecessary? Is it better to place the hole near the top of the column or down close to the base?

Any help is appreciated! Also if you know of anything that's worked for you I'm open to listening to.
 

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The best place may be at a tangent, but likely not going to make much difference.

I am not expecting the bolt will perform as you desire though.

Before trying the bolt, I would try the best penetrant on the market, Kroil from Kano Labs. This stuff can get into places other penetrants cannot reach.

I use this on my hand plane restores.

If this is seized and Kroil does not work, I am not optimistic you will get these apart with the bolt.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
 

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Unless your drilling like a huge hole and I'm talking like 1" and above your not going to weaken it. Actually I doubt even a 1" hole would do much if anything, you probably would have to go even much bigger then that before it weakens even a little. The cylinder shape is extremely strong and the column should be pretty thick.
 

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your method is a gamble at best

Why not invert the column over the porch rail, pick up bed, etc. and let some Kriol work it's way down from the bottom toward the top of the column? Then place the column upright over a spaer if needed, to allow the column to be pushed downward. Using a block of hardwood Beat the top of the column down by standing on a ladder, on the porch or in the back of a pick up.
You can lay the column over horizontally, and use a pipe the same diameter as the column and beat it from bottom toward the top also.
Back and forth and it will eventually break free. Sharp, heavy blows are better than a light smack. Beating on the sides of the base will vibrate the space in between and loosen the rust. Don't get too aggressive on the sides and may crack the cast iron. :yes:
I would not use a bolt as you suggested. the forces are too concentrated and somthing may break.
 

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While I was answering the direct question about weakening. the other three post so far have addressed fixing your problem.
 

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The hole will do no damage. I'm wondering if the column can be turned while it's in the base....if you can turn it (maybe using the hole you drill for a lever of some kind) that may break loose the joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I forgot to mention the base has a ledge inside of it that the column sits on so getting it from the inside or knocking it down from the top is out of the question :(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The hole will do no damage. I'm wondering if the column can be turned while it's in the base....if you can turn it (maybe using the hole you drill for a lever of some kind) that may break loose the joint.
I was hoping that would work as well so last night I clamped two of my best channel locks on the lips of the top and used a breaker bar wedged between the who to try and get some twist but no go it didnt move.
 

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I haven't seen enough drill press bases to know how the columns are attached, but I'm wondering if it's pinned to the column through a hole somewhere in the side of the base casting. Or maybe a setscrew?

I'd add my vote for a long soak with penetrating oil. Several days, a week, or whatever. And give it a daily beating around the base, as Woodnthings suggested to see if that helps loosen it.

You mention a ledge in the base that the column sits in. Looking under the base, can you see any of the wall of the column, or does the ledge completely cover it? If any of the column sits inside the ledge, maybe you could cut a steel disk the right size, then whack it with a block of wood & a hammer?

(Got any pictures of the situation?)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright I'm confident in saying that this column will never ever ever ever ever ever be separated from the base lol.

I went ahead and drilled a 3/4 inch hole about a third down from the top, I figured it's a dead space anyway and I could attach a drill bit tray to it. I then put a 3 inch socket extender through the hole, took a galvanized black clamp pipe, threaded a giant nut on the end and proceeded to hammer at the socket extender swat team style. No movement AT ALL. Not even a millimeter. Then I got a really long socket extender, wedged the base in between 2 concrete slabs and hit it as hard as I could with a hammer to try and get some twist moment. Nothing.

I'm going to buy some of that Kroll stuff and see how that goes this week. I only wanted the column off so I could use my stand polisher instead of my hand polisher but this is more work than its worth!

Btw there is a set screw but I removed it
 

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where's my table saw?
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shoot some Kroil in the set screw hole also

I wonder if EvapoRust would work. :blink:
 

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I know you already drilled the hole but I'll add this in case some one actually searches old threads before asking the question again in the future.

First double check to be sure there aren't a couple if set screws holding the base on that you've missed. If you drill a hole do so at the top of the column, (this will leave it above any moment stress when you put it back together). Then put a large bolt across it, and instead of using a piece of wood to hammer on, use a long piece of 2-inch pipe and use it like a battering ram.

Option two: drill the hole at the top, and hang the assembly so the base is down, run a line all the way around the column with a sharpie so you can see if anything is happening. Then apply lots of a good penetrant and start smacking all the way around the joint at the base with a hammer. Hopefully the base will start to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I know you already drilled the hole but I'll add this in case some one actually searches old threads before asking the question again in the future.

First double check to be sure there aren't a couple if set screws holding the base on that you've missed. If you drill a hole do so at the top of the column, (this will leave it above any moment stress when you put it back together). Then put a large bolt across it, and instead of using a piece of wood to hammer on, use a long piece of 2-inch pipe and use it like a battering ram.

Option two: drill the hole at the top, and hang the assembly so the base is down, run a line all the way around the column with a sharpie so you can see if anything is happening. Then apply lots of a good penetrant and start smacking all the way around the joint at the base with a hammer. Hopefully the base will start to move.
Everything is hunky dory now. I just took my hand buffer to it and did the initial cutting grit and it's coming along nicely. I think It'l be ready for paint in no time (the base that is)

Here is the before



And now



Not beautiful but definately much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Still havent gotten my kroil in but I think I might just leave this be. I did my first final polish on the column last night and I'm really pleased with the results of using my angle grinder vs my bench buffer. It gets really hot but if you make sure to not block the air holes it cools down quickly.

Here is a view of it.
Before

First round of cutting the rust and small rust divots

First round of polishing
 

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