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I agree with Cabinetman. Make your own. Great excuse for leftover scraps of plywood. Beginning of each school semester we have the TAs make a half dozen or so. They come in handy for more than just table saws. We'll use them on router tables, jointers, and table saws as well.
 

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I use homemade, made from baltic birch plywood. You can cut them up without a care in the world. There was a thread here is the last week or so about someone that wouldn't use a store bought push stick because they were afraid they would cut the push stick with the saw so they used their hand instead.
 

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i agree with all to make your own - however use caution in the design so that your hand is well clear of the blade, with wood that doesn't have any splits or cracks in it. remember this is a piece of safety equipment. i always liked one of NORM's that resembled the profile of a hand saw, it gives the right amount of forward and downard pressure.
 

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A simple and safe pusher is a 4"X8"piece of 3/8-1/2 good plywood. I used BB. A 1/4" notch made with a band saw along one 8" side, stopped 1/4 " from the end to for a catch. A 4" long 1X2 is glued to the top side (mine's on the fence side) for a control handle.
It provides down pressure as well as pushes the work. And, it's high enough to keep your hand away from the blade. I also made one from 1/4" ply for cuts closer to the fence.
There are more elegant ones but, this safe and simple one works well.
 

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where's my table saw?
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agreed

i agree with all to make your own - however use caution in the design so that your hand is well clear of the blade, with wood that doesn't have any splits or cracks in it. remember this is a piece of safety equipment. i always liked one of NORM's that resembled the profile of a hand saw, it gives the right amount of forward and downward pressure.
Don't forget pressure IN toward the fence, which is more important than down or forward...JMO. By keeping the work..... which has already been straightened and flattened on the jointer.... TIGHT against the fence you reduce the possibility of it rotating away allowing it to ride up and over the blade, back at you. This type of kickback is the most dangerous because it happens so fast and is unexpected. The other type of kickback where the work just shoots rearward from not being pushed through, beyond the blade is more predictable.

You really need several types of pushing accessories:... blocks, 3/4" shoes, 1/4" narrow shoes, and just a notched stick. Do Not use Plastic, it may shatter and turn to shrapnel. The 2 commercial ones, in photo 2, are made from plastic, but they seem safe and well constructed. The small shiny black, in photo 3, one is the dangerous one...JMO.

Sometimes you have to run the pusher right across the blade to complete the pass and it will leave a kerf. Not to worry, that's why you make your own and can replace them OR just saw a new "catch" on the end.

Also Do NOT push near the fence side of the work. Push near the blade side. This will put more pressure IN toward the fence to reduce kickbacks.

 

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Homemade....for all the reasons stated above. I woul however disagree that plastic is unsafe, that's like stating that wood doesn't stain well.....sure some don't, but others are great....there are plastics that would never shatter, and there are plastics that are as fragile as glass.
 

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John
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I have several different configurations. Some purchased and some shop built including a couple of push blocks. What I use depends on the cut and my comfort level for that cut. Most cases I will use the one that sits on top of the work with the 1/4" heel to do the pushing, I'll also use a second push stick to hold the stock to the fence while I'm feeding it. I don't think one size fits all in this department. I also use featherboards a lot to make sure the stock goes where I want it.
 

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where's my table saw?
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that's slick

I also use various sticks of wood. Sprayed some red paint on the push end, so I don't throw it away and also to remind me of blood!
That's perfect for those narrow/thin rips! :thumbsup:
 
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