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Can anyone help with how to make a stopped cove cut in red oak without getting anyy splintering at the ends. I'm using a 3/4 in cove to make the finger pull in drawer handles.
 

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You might have to make more than one pass to get what you want without any splintering. Take one pass about 3/4 of the depth you want and go slow then take another pass at your full depth. You'll still need to take it slow but watch out for burning.

I do this all the time with pine but never really had any trouble with the splintering and I take a full pass and I'm done.
 

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You might have to make more than one pass to get what you want without any splintering. Take one pass about 3/4 of the depth you want and go slow then take another pass at your full depth. You'll still need to take it slow but watch out for burning.

I do this all the time with pine but never really had any trouble with the splintering and I take a full pass and I'm done.

Not to mention a good sharp bit don't hurt,i too would make more than one pass,you'll spend more time sanding the burns out than you will multiple passes.
 

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Not to mention a good sharp bit don't hurt,i too would make more than one pass,you'll spend more time sanding the burns out than you will multiple passes.
When we were shaping some 8/4 red oak for exterior door rails, we were getting some splintering and burning.

We found that wetting the wood with mineral spirits in a spray bottle will reduce both splintering and burning quite well.

Old time woodcarvers will spray the wood with it to make carving easier. It really works!

If you do get some burning, wetting the sand paper with mineral spirits will quicken the process considerably.

p.s. don't tell anybody, this is a highly protected secret. :laughing:
 
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