[tailwagger]

Greetings. First post. I've been collecting a sparse number hand tools for use for a few years now, but recently went full guns to collect enough to actually start making stuff (cabinetry, furniture, etc.) as a pastime. I'm a process type of guy so have been enjoying learning about new and old hand tools and how to use them.

Which brings me to my most recent purchase off eBay this morning, a Stanley No. 6, Type 9. Wish me luck that it will clean up and tune up to be a good user! (Not sure how many Stanley planes experts are here, but here goes. ...) I'm noticing by the photos that the iron is Type 11 (it has the triangular stamp Stanley info and bulbous chip breaker). Why might this be mismatched? And from a user standpoint will this iron be compatible with this plane? Is it less than ideal setup? If so, how easy is it to find a Type 9 iron and chip breaker? Also, the chip breaker is creased slightly horizontally where the lever cap rests on it. Is this a problem? Thanks!

 

[Dave Paine]

There are more than a few folks on the forum who are well versed with the vintage Stanley planes.

If you are looking for a user, a blade which fits is what matters. Same width, same slot. Bevel may or may not be correct. Most of my restorations had really bad butchered blades due to bad sharpening.

People over the years have replaced various parts on planes. You should not be surprised. Good that they replaced with a Stanley blade.

Many "frankenplanes" out in the world.

I am not sure what you mean by bulbous chipbreaker or the chip breaker being creased. How about some pictures?

I have replaced a number of chipbreakers on my vintage Stanley planes with new ones from Veritas.

I have also replaced some of the blades with new Veritas blades.

When I do a restoration, I am looking to get a working user plane. If the blade is a Stanley and has a lot of metal left, and sharpens well, then it is good to go for my needs.

If your plane has no cracks it should be able to be restored.

A number of restoration threads on the forum. Do a search if you need help.

 

[tailwagger]

Thanks, Dave. Great info. Encouraging there are folks here who can help.

Regarding the chipbreaker, "bulbous" is my term for lack of the right term. Here are pictures of it off eBay:

Chip breaker and iron assembly and lever cap. Note chip breaker "bulbous" part has crease

Type 11 iron

Stanley No. 6, Type 9

 

[Dave Paine]

Thanks for the pictures, they help a lot.

You will not need to restore this puppy, it is in excellent condition. The paint looks almost new. Nice to see a plane of this vintage which was kept in a decent environment, perhaps cared for by the previous owners.

You will just be doing cleaning, light rust removal on the blade, chipbreaker and lateral adjustment lever and I expect the blade needs to be sharpened. The blade looks like full length or almost full length. It should be easily sharpened.

What you call a "crease" is from the original manufacturing process. Holding the chip breaker in jaws while bending the end. You called it "bulbous". It is normal.

The curve to the chip breaker is to provide improved contact between chipbreaker and the blade.

If the chipbreaker does not have intimate contact with the blade across the entire width of the blade, then shavings will catch underneath and the plane will skip instead of cutting.

I flatten the end of my chipbreakers to improve the contact.

 

[adot45]

+1 for me too. Very nice to see a plane of this vintage in such good shape. Nice score. Welcome to the forum too.

 

[timetestedtools]

welcome to the forum. I agree with Dave, just clean and tune and it will be a great user. I would typically use the original iron and chip breaker, but a new Hock or veritas after market works very well.

Here is some tuning help if needed.

 

[tailwagger]

Thanks!

Thanks to all in this thread for the encouraging responses on the condition of the plane. I'm glad there are no red flags from the pictures.

Dave, thanks for the explanation of the condition and purpose of the chip breaker features, as well as the tip on flattening the edge for increased contact with the blade.

Adot45, thanks for the welcome. I think I'm going to like it!

Timetestedtools, thanks for the link. I will certainly pore over your step-by-step, as well as the rest of your site. I'm sure I will find very helpful.

Thanks again everyone!

Kurtis Jay Johnson
Lincoln, NE

 

[Tom King]

I have two 6's that I use. I keep different cambers on the irons. Yours looks as good as either of mine. The only problem I see is that the iron may be too pitted to get a good polish on the back without a LOT of work.

 

[aztoolman]

Thanks to all in this thread for the encouraging responses on the condition of the plane. I'm glad there are no red flags from the pictures.

Dave, thanks for the explanation of the condition and purpose of the chip breaker features, as well as the tip on flattening the edge for increased contact with the blade.

Adot45, thanks for the welcome. I think I'm going to like it!

Timetestedtools, thanks for the link. I will certainly pore over your step-by-step, as well as the rest of your site. I'm sure I will find very helpful.

Thanks again everyone!

Kurtis Jay Johnson
Lincoln, NE

This is a timely post. I just picked up "frankenparts" No.6C myself. I believe it is a Type 9 as well. BUT the frog appears to be a type 8. The plane doesn't have the B casting like a type 8 but it does have the "7-24-88" patent date on the lateral adjustment lever. Confusing.. Also, it has a SW iron that is in good shape but of course not original. I am guessing there was some cross-over of parts from type 8 to type 9 perhaps?

I've had a early No. 3 that was stamped "DAMAGED" on the side of the plane from the factory, apparently they sold damaged planes to the workers and their families. Kind of a cool story I guess.