[evilrick]

Flea market finds. Got them both for $20/ea. The frog on the No. 4 is chipped a bit but the mating surfaces are fine. Neither one is that corroded. I'm thinking just some steel wool and WD-40. There doesn't seem to be any heavy pitting.

 

[john sayles]

I'm going to assume that by posting these, you're looking for feedback.
I could do what is often done and say something insipid like:"Nice - they should clean up fine and be great users"

But instead, I'll be honest with you - 20/each is quite high. The number four is a very late model plane (possible even UK-made) It dates to a time after Stanley quality had declined greatly.
The No 5 seems to be sporting stained hardwood handles, rather than rosewood, and may not even have brass fittings.

That said, they probably will make good users.

The point here is not to make you feel bad, but to educate you.
All of us go through the learning curve.

 

[evilrick]

$40 was a good deal to me. The No. 5 has the bakelite (I think) adjustment knob and might be a Type 17 (1942-45). The No. 4 has a brass adjustment knob and might be a Type 20 (1962-67)

http://home.comcast.net/~rexmill/planes101/typing/typing.htm

 

[Dave Paine]

The No. 5 has the bakelite (I think) adjustment knob and might be a Type 17 (1942-45).

All that matters is if you are happy with the purchase.

I am intrigued by the No. 5. How about some pictures of the adjustment wheel. In this period it may have been rubber.

I have come across a similar plane in my restorations. In my case a No. 7. Sadly the rubber had hardened and come off the metal insert.

Take a look at my restoration thread for more details.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f11/plane-restore-round-4-a-48338/index4/

 

[evilrick]

All that matters is if you are happy with the purchase.

I concur.

I am intrigued by the No. 5. How about some pictures of the adjustment wheel. In this period it may have been rubber.

I have come across a similar plane in my restorations. In my case a No. 7. Sadly the rubber had hardened and come off the metal insert

This one is a hard plastic. I guessed at the bakelite just because of the era of the plane and how hard it is. It's definitely not rubber.

 

[evilrick]

And here's before/after some WD-40 and Scotch-Brite.

 

[Dave Paine]

This one is a hard plastic. I guessed at the bakelite just because of the era of the plane and how hard it is. It's definitely not rubber.

Thanks for the pictures. Rust is very superficial, just WD-40 and paper towel may remove.

I think it was rubber, but as the solvents have evapourated over time, it has become very hard. In my plane it also warped and shrank.

Hyper Kitten is one of the type study sites. Its entry for Type 17 state the adjustment wheel were either steel or rubber, not stated but rubber with metal insert.

http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php#Type%2017

 

[tc65]

Here are a couple of pictures of my #5 of the same type/era. Mine has no frog adjustment screw, stained tote/handle, one piece steel screws for handle/tote and the black hard rubber depth adjustment knob. Definitely a "war era" no-frills plane.:smile:







You'll also notice the wood dust, superficial rust and un-restored wood parts. That is what all my planes look like after my restoration.:laughing:

The bottom is flat and clean, the blade is sharp and all moving parts move - perfect condition in my book.:yes:

 

[aztoolman]

Thats a WWII era No. 5 with the plastic depth adjustment knob. Type 17 if I remember correctly. Nice find! Someday I want to collect a full run of the plastic knob planes. Clean them up and enjoy!

 

[MarkE]

The type 17's are out there in abundance. Usually sold at lower prices than most of the earlier types. They seem to be shunned by users and collectors alike, which is probably why they can be purchased for less dollars.

I have had a few come and go in my shop. They clean up very nicely and can be finely tuned. Most that I have seen have thick, heavy base castings, which is a plus for me. A sharp iron can nullify many other perceived defects.

 

[tc65]

I paid $20 for it on ebay about 3 years ago. I don't really care if it is "collectable" or not. It is a fine working plane. May not be as pretty as others, but the lack of brass and stained hardwood tote/knob doesn't affect performance, which is my prime consideration.

 

[MarkE]

I paid $20 for it on ebay about 3 years ago. I don't really care if it is "collectable" or not. It is a fine working plane. May not be as pretty as others, but the lack of brass and stained hardwood tote/knob doesn't affect performance, which is my prime consideration.

And there you go. If it works, who (collectors excepted) really cares when it was made?

 

[evilrick]

I paid $20 for it on ebay about 3 years ago. I don't really care if it is "collectable" or not. It is a fine working plane. May not be as pretty as others, but the lack of brass and stained hardwood tote/knob doesn't affect performance, which is my prime consideration.

I concur.

 

[evilrick]

I got them both cleaned up pretty good. I do not have a piece of granite yet so I just lapped everything on MDF to get the rust off. I'm not going to do any serious sole lapping or iron sharpening until I get some granite. I do not want to use my table saw top. I want to polish the parts more just because I'm OCD.

I also want to remove the japaning because the rust is coming through. I have someone that can sandblast for me, but is there another way to remove the black/blue?

And I just sanded the knobs and totes with 100,220 and put a couple of coats of Minwax mahogany stain on them. I do not like the varnish look so just used some wax. I like the dull look over the shiney.

 

[Dave Paine]

I also want to remove the japaning because the rust is coming through. I have someone that can sandblast for me, but is there another way to remove the black/blue?

These are looking very good.

The existing jappaning can also be removed with paint strippers. This will loosen the paint, but you will have to scrape to remove it.

I like to use Ready-Strip. Available at many hardware stores and big box stores. A HD link.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ready-St...mentally-Friendly-65832/100665911?N=5yc1vZ4m0

This is no odour and no harsh chemicals. Apply a very thick coat with a small brush. Leave this overnight to soften the paint and then scrape off with the paint.

Getting the paint out of the lettering in the casting is tedious, but I have found hand scraping does a better job than when I had a friend sand blast a casting for me.

 

[evilrick]

I like tedious. It's almost meditative.

We currently have some Citristip http://www.homedepot.com/p/Citristr...tripping-Gel-HCG73803T/100141801?N=5yc1vZc5bq which says works on lacquer. I think I'll give that a try first. Is there a particular brand of spray paint that works best on metals like this? Do they have lacquers that comes in colors?

EDIT - I just found Valspar at Lowe's that comes in black. Good, bad? *It's shown in the "Chain Accessories" category . . .?

 

[Dave Paine]

I followed the recommendation of TimeTestedTools to use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint.

Goes on thick. Apply several coats about 10 mins apart and all must be within 1 hr.

If you miss anything, then you have to wait 7 days for the coats to cross link before you attempt another coat.

 

[evilrick]

What about blue? Again, the OCD in me. I'm contemplating Testors model paint. It's inexpensive and if it doesn't work, I can always take it off relatively easy.

 

[evilrick]

These are looking very good.

Thank you by the way.

 

[Dave Paine]

What about blue? Again, the OCD in me. I'm contemplating Testors model paint. It's inexpensive and if it doesn't work, I can always take it off relatively easy.

Dupli-Color Engine Enamel comes in many colours. Just go to the store and find one which you feel matches.

Autozone carries this paint, perhaps many other auto parts places.

I am not familiar with Testors model paint so cannot comment.