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....If you have credentials im all ears I've already shared mine. [/QUOTE

My name, address, tel no. etc is on my business website.

I'm also a Certified Protective Coatings Inspector and contract with major oil companies off shore. All of this can be verified.
 

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blush...blushing..you guys are making me blush.. that door does look bad.. sanding and starting over might fix it but I'll be doggone if I'd spend the time to sand slatted doors down to bare wood.. A quick trip to Lowes for a new door or a can of paint for the old door would be my choice. As to staining and finishing, I will add that if I need to stain I will use an oil base stain (one rubbed in coat and no sanding . I don't have any real credentials so my opinion might get me in trouble here but I really think that might be the problem especially if you did not allow enough drying time. Dust and moisture can really mess up a finish. I'm also very comfortable with a wipe on oil based poly finish( I never use full strength ).. Well thats all I have to say about that.. Hope I didn't offend anybody
 

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Really underground garage
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Not an expert by any stretch but can't think back to when we ever put 3 coats of stain on anything?My "hillbilly" sense is telling me its now oil rotten(think trying to weld an aluminum M/C case thats been filled with oil for 40 years),which is presenting adhesion/reaction issues.And weavil is probably right about replacement......if its a cheap door.

I hang out on a hotrodding site......mainly for the exterior paint side of it.Theres some true industry leaders(owners of some rather large,famous co's)that hang out there.What's interesting is how often they disagree on paint issues?These guys........in the nicest of ways......end up agreeing to disagree.The point is however,that in paint/finish world theres more than one way to skin that cat.Welding world is also filled with nuances like that......where just a slightly different technique can offset the criteria enough that what works for one may have negative results for the next guy?

So hang in there resto.......Georgetown?I did a preservation townhouse there way back in '75.Made good bank on that one.BW
 

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In your first pic you have blotching more than anything. You stated it was soft wood and often that's what it does. Using a sealer and sanding before staining would have helped but I don't mind the look because it's wood.
As for your choice of finish there is no problem. I've used minwax golden oak under oil based poly many times with fantastic success. Also, some expert stated poly is the wrong thing to use, I disagree, the same expert stated poly was for exterior use,it is not. IMO this is beyond a simple fix and may do the same thing again, get a new door and start over. Let the stain soak in for 5-10 min. the wipe off the surface completely let dry overnight before applying poly. Just the way I do it!!
 

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Rick Mosher
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OK, it looks to me, if I am seeing the pictures correctly, that the doors already had finish on them? Then you sanded and applied 3 coats of stain? Then you applied a clear coat over that? I would say the finish is wrinkling due to an adhesion failure. Just a wild guess though and I am definitely not blushing. :p If my guess is correct then you will need to strip the doors (I would go all the way to bare wood but you could just sand them back to the original finish)

Did you apply the original finish or were you trying to darken up something that already had a finish on it?
 
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