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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I am thinking of going to a hvlp rather than apply water base by hand , any tips on certain hvlps ? and respirators ?
i
 

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Waterbase polyurethane finishes much nicer when sprayed than done by hand. Use thin applications, and try to spray vertically. If items are down and flat, don't let the media pool or puddle.

If you use an HVLP, your compressor may not be up to the CFM requirement of the particular gun. HVLP produces much less overspray, and it's hard to see what's coming out of the gun. You might check into the self contained turbine type with a gun, like this one. I suggest you use a lot of light on the work so you can see the "wet" path.

I would recommend using a two cartridge respirator.






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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hvlp

Cabinet man
Thanks a lot actually , I ordered that hvlp last week waiting on it to arrive , does it have different tip sizes ?. was not bad priced to start out on and get some experience spraying . I use Vermont water base urethane right now any need to thin ?
Thank you for your advice

Rick
 

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Cabinet man
Thanks a lot actually , I ordered that hvlp last week waiting on it to arrive , does it have different tip sizes ?. was not bad priced to start out on and get some experience spraying . I use Vermont water base urethane right now any need to thin ?
Thank you for your advice

Rick
I haven't used that particular one. See what the label says, if it's ready to spray. I haven't experienced too much of a problem spraying WB finishes with the tip that comes on the gun. I will say of the various brands I've tried, around 5% water to thin worked well. That would be about ½" of water in the bottom of a qt cup.






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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hvlp

ok thanks , yes I have thin water base poly on my top coats to slow down the drying a bit , with good results when doing by hand.I have ordered a few books, will practice and hope fully be happy in the long run . will save me a lot of time

Thanks

Rick
 

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One thing to look out for with water based finishes is they are incompatible with linseed oil, an ingredient in most oil stains. If you use an oil stain be sure to wait three days drying time before directly applying a water based finish. Another option would be to put a coat of Zinsser Sealcoat on as a barrier coat so an overnight drying time with the stain could be used. It would also prevent the water in the finish from raising the grain so the finish would build quicker. As far as respirator I use a 3M disposable respirator. The rubber body of the respirator wears out too so I would rather use a fresh respirator rather than one you change the cartridges.
 

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Waterbase polyurethane finishes much nicer when sprayed than done by hand. Use thin applications, and try to spray vertically. If items are down and flat, don't let the media pool or puddle.

If you use an HVLP, your compressor may not be up to the CFM requirement of the particular gun. HVLP produces much less overspray, and it's hard to see what's coming out of the gun. You might check into the self contained turbine type with a gun, like this one. I suggest you use a lot of light on the work so you can see the "wet" path.

I would recommend using a two cartridge respirator.






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What a coincidence. I bought that sprayer today. I sprayed Zinsser primer on the doors and drawer fronts of the buffet I am building. For first time use, I thought they turned out pretty good.

Note: Three tips included. A link to the instruction manual is on the HF page.

I use an outdoor spray booth! :laughing:

Hope this helps.
Mike
 

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I am not sure if that sprayer comes with a viscosity cup, but if not get one and learn to use it. I learned the hard way. Hated my Fuji gun until I figured out how to thin finishes correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
spraying wb

For doing small jobs in garage, do you think a small spray booth is a must or ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
spray wb

One thing to look out for with water based finishes is they are incompatible with linseed oil, an ingredient in most oil stains. If you use an oil stain be sure to wait three days drying time before directly applying a water based finish. Another option would be to put a coat of Zinsser Sealcoat on as a barrier coat so an overnight drying time with the stain could be used. It would also prevent the water in the finish from raising the grain so the finish would build quicker. As far as respirator I use a 3M disposable respirator. The rubber body of the respirator wears out too so I would rather use a fresh respirator rather than one you change the cartridges.
is a spray booth a must with water base or ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
booth

If you aren't planning for a dedicated exhaust outside the garage, and a filtered air intake, you might be better off just spraying o months






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well I plan on working in there in winter months , so better rig something up
 

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Does spray require compressor

Hi Cabinetman,

One of the questions I have been wondering about is if my compressor (rated for 2.8 CFM @ 90 PSI) would deliver the CFM to reliably spray finishes using HVLP sprayers. Is it correct to assume that the HVLP kit you linked to above does not require a compressor to use? I assume this is the case since it has a motor, but wanted to confirm.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hvlp

Rob
yes this unit has its own motor, no compressor needed . I am about to try my luck at spraying also with water base ,
 

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Hi Cabinetman,

One of the questions I have been wondering about is if my compressor (rated for 2.8 CFM @ 90 PSI) would deliver the CFM to reliably spray finishes using HVLP sprayers. Is it correct to assume that the HVLP kit you linked to above does not require a compressor to use? I assume this is the case since it has a motor, but wanted to confirm.

Thanks,
Rob
Look it up on the harbor freight site. Instruction manual is available.
 

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Hi Cabinetman,

One of the questions I have been wondering about is if my compressor (rated for 2.8 CFM @ 90 PSI) would deliver the CFM to reliably spray finishes using HVLP sprayers. Is it correct to assume that the HVLP kit you linked to above does not require a compressor to use? I assume this is the case since it has a motor, but wanted to confirm.

Thanks,
Rob
Your CFM rating would likely be higher, as airline pressure to the gun would be less than 90 PSI. Still, if it's still lower, it will still spray on intermittent intervals. If you want a steady output, your tank will deplete to the "kick on recovery" and run to refill. If your output is still steady, the compressor has to fill the tank and support the gun. Soon, the compressor will not keep up, and the air output will be less, and your gun will become ineffective.

As for the self contained HVLP...yes, that's the whole shebang.




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I use a Fuji turbine HVLP and try to stick to WB finishes. I absolutely love spraying with this setup.

I don't know much about the HF HVLP, but I've heard good things about it. It is a single stage turbine, so it probably won't be able to atomize heavier finishes without quite a bit of thinning. Higher turbines means more CFM/volume and the ability to spray thicker finishes. Thinning just means more, thinner coats and more risk of runs on vertical surfaces.

With the 2.8CFM compressor, I don't think you'll be happy with a conversion gun. They really take a lot of air (that's the HV part). As Cabinetman described, the compressor runs out of pressure. Yes, you can wait it out, but if you're halfway through a pass and your gun starts sputtering, it can ruin your finish.

I've been using, and really like the Target Coatings WB finishes. They are ready to spray out of the can, no thinning required. You may or may not need to thin a bit with a single stage turbine. I've used their EM9300 right over Boiled Linseed Oil as recommended by the mfg. I'm sure that some WB finishes are incompatible with BLO, but it turned out well. I've also shot Minwax polycrylic over regular minwax stain and it turned out fine.

I use a 3m Organic Vapor respirator. I've shot WB without the mask and it made me sick for several days after. I vent with a cheap 8" inline fan sticking out of the back of my garage. It helps clear the air, but it still looks like a cloud in there for about 5 mins after I spray. Make sure your tools are well protected as the overspray seems to rust up unprotected steel.
 

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After tons of research, I bucked up for the Full Blown #8 Q4 package http://www.phelpsrefinishing.com/Q4.html. I'm extremely happy with this setup and the versatility it offers. I've shot everything from stain, to BLO to latex paint right from the can. Hell, I shot a whole 16' x 45' mobile home with Valspar paint/primer(thick stuff) with just a little floetrol mixed in.

For what it's worth, the MM4 is cheaper and has the same functionality, just louder. The Q4 is quite enough to have a conversation within 10 feet of it.
 
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