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Scotty D
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Discussion Starter #1
Sherwin Williams pre-cat vinyl sealer and Laq., is my go to finish. SW tech. says, do not spray the sealer over brass, it will turn green. They had nothing for a barrier coat and could not recommend any type of finishing schedule. :blink:

These are brass inlays in curly Maple. I'm sure someone out there has done this successfully.

What products did you use?

I appreciate any and all help, this piece needs to ship soon. :boat: :smile:
Thanks,
 

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Rick Mosher
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You're going to have to do some samples. :smile:

What worked for me was Chemcraft 2K Isolante. I scuffed the brass for adhesion, either red scotch brite or 400 grit sandpaper (sometimes you can't do that it depends on the look you're after) If you need to spray over polished metal you will need to do a phosphoric acid etch first and then spray on the isolante. PPG DX501 should work for this.




Adhesion test with 2K urethane only, no isolante



Adhesion test with isolante first.

These products are extremely dangerous and should only be sprayed in aprofessional spray booth with a proper respirator.
 

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The Chemcraft 2K Isolante is a polyurethane. I doubt if it is compatable with lacquer. It may not lift the Chemcraft but I would suspect there would be adhesion problems. I would wait for Rick to give you his answer. I haven't used the product.
 

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Scotty D
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Discussion Starter #5
The Chemcraft 2K Isolante is a polyurethane. I doubt if it is compatable with lacquer. It may not lift the Chemcraft but I would suspect there would be adhesion problems. I would wait for Rick to give you his answer. I haven't used the product.
Thanks Steve, I understand that. The vinyl sealer should be a sufficient barrier coat I would think? :huh:
 

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Thanks Steve, I understand that. The vinyl sealer should be a sufficient barrier coat I would think? :huh:
Well vinyl sealer isn't compatible with everything. It just doesn't feel right to me to put vinyl sealer over a 2k polyurethane. I would be more inclined to continue with the Chemcraft. By the way take extra precautions spraying any finish that has a 2 part mixture. I'm not sure about this one but many have isocyanite hardeners which a small amount can really put a hurt on your health. I painted a tractor three years ago with some just using a regular chemical respirator and tried to stay upwind from the paint. I've been coughing ever since. What little paint I ingested went through the respirator. A person really needs a air supplied respirator.
 

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Scotty D
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Discussion Starter #8
On the brass fixtures I installed when making commercial bars...foot rests, waitress station, brass railings, and associated hardware, I used an acrylic lacquer (CAB). Not a waterbase product.
Thanks Mike!

That is a product I could get locally. It could be sprayed on the wood and brass simultaneously correct? :huh:
 

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Old School
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Thanks Mike!

That is a product I could get locally. It could be sprayed on the wood and brass simultaneously correct? :huh:
Yep. After polishing the brass (if polished), clean with warm dish soapy water, and then clear water. Before coating wipe with lacquer thinner.






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Scotty D
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Discussion Starter #10
Yep. After polishing the brass (if polished), clean with warm dish soapy water, and then clear water. Before coating wipe with lacquer thinner.
Cool! This sounds like my easiest option. I will have a gal. of CAB sent over. :yes:


I would still like to hear what others have done also. :smile:
 

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You shouldn't polish the brass prior to coating over it. The metal should be scuff sanded regardless of the coating for adhesion purposes. Rick finishes a lot more brass inlet than I do, I would pay attention to his recomendations. The only time I finished brass inlet I used Brass Lacquer. I doubt if you would get the same adhesion qualities with cab lacquer. This is why Rick tested different finishes making scratches across the metal to see which would fail sooner than others.
 

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Rick Mosher
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You could try a lot of different finishes just do the adhesion test to be sure it is working. Inlays in tables, especially conference tables, take a beating and I have seen several where the finish chips off the metal and has to be touched up (no fun) Your vinyl sealer should go over the isolante perfectly well and an air supplied respirator isn't required as long as your exposure levels are low (not spraying a lot every day) but make sure you use a good respirator and a proper spray booth.
 
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