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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on a picture fame for a painting we have. Thanks, by the way, to Hands Made For Wood for his great tutorial, which I used to make the frame.

When I got to the part about cutting the slots for the splined corners I had to make the jig. So I spent my shop time yesterday evening building this jig and I thought it turned out decent enough to share. It's my own variation of the 'ole standard. The hold-down block is adjustable for different widths. Parts can be replaced easily enough if/when/as needed.

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With frame pieces in place.

And here's what it looks like with parts in place and ready to be cut.

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It's used alongside the rip fence. A stop block is clamped to the table saw's rip fence to limit forward travel, allowing the highest point of the blade to pass the back side of the workpiece while preventing risk of the jig being cut more than necessary (and screws from being cut into).
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good, think you'll get a long life out of it too! Is that mdf for the side? Then ply for the rest right?
Correct. I wish I'd used proper MDF/particle board screws. I got a little splitting along the outside edges of the MDF. I should have just used plywood for the side instead of MDF. Oh well. It's nice and solid and should serve its purpose just fine.

Oh, the stop blocks are made from 2x4.
 

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Chaincarver Steve said:
Correct. I wish I'd used proper MDF/particle board screws. I got a little splitting along the outside edges of the MDF. I should have just used plywood for the side instead of MDF. Oh well. It's nice and solid and should serve its purpose just fine.

Oh, the stop blocks are made from 2x4.
Thanks. I've been wanting to make one, but no need for it yet so i'm just picking up ideas. Thanks for sharing yours.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How to use.

I took pictures of the setup procedure I observed when setting up the jig for use. Maybe some one will find this useful, as it's applicable to virtually any spline jig of this nature.

The first thing I did was number all of the corners. At the first corner, I numbered BOTH pieces "1". Next corner "2". And so on.

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I then measured along the MITER (not along the outside edge) to determine what depth I can get away with. Don't want to be too deep or too shallow. I decided on 1 1/16".

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Set the rule ON the jig's base.

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And set the blade height.

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With the blade set to height, put the jig against the fence (but beside the blade) and align to the max travel point.

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sight to ensure that the blade's apex will completely exit the workpiece.

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Clamp a stop block to the fence to ensure that the jig can be pushed no further.

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Using my trusty depth gauge (these are sold at auto parts stores are tire tread gauges. I use this thing quite often. You need one in your shop :thumbsup: ), I determined where I want the edge of the kerf to begin.

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Use this measurement to align the jig offset against the rip fence. Then lock the fence into this position.

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Align and secure the parts to the jig.

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I attached two spring clamps to ensure the parts remain still and stable. Can't be too careful.

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Grip here (to help keep the jig against the fence)...

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... and here.

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And run the jig forward all the way to the stop block then back out. And here's what you'll end up with; a nice slot into which your splines will seat very happily.

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Now that there folks is a spline jig! :thumbsup:

And to think, my spline jig is nothing more than a piece of plywood and a couple of 2x4's that sits directly on the saw table and slides along the fence.

I really like that you have marked out the max blade height. That takes away a lot of guessing during set up.
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now that there folks is a spline jig! :thumbsup:

And to think, my spline jig is nothing more than a piece of plywood and a couple of 2x4's that sits directly on the saw table and slides along the fence.

I really like that you have marked out the max blade height. That takes away a lot of guessing during set up.
FYI, the "max height" I marked is based solely on where the screws are. The marking puts maximum at least 1/4 under the screws. I definitely don't want to risk running my blade into hardware.
 

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Steve! I just saw this thread now! The frames are coming along awesome! I love the addition you added to the spline jig. If I had one of those nifty surface clamps laying around I would've added it to mine! I guess it will have to wait. haha

Can't wait to see the finished frames! :yes:
Levi
 

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I wood if I could.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Steve! I just saw this thread now! The frames are coming along awesome! I love the addition you added to the spline jig. If I had one of those nifty surface clamps laying around I would've added it to mine! I guess it will have to wait. haha

Can't wait to see the finished frames! :yes:
Levi
Thank you, Sir! The real credit goes to you for your great tutorial. I was having a hard time visualizing how to go about the process so I was thrilled that you listened to your fans and gave us the critical sequence of steps involved. When I first saw your frames I fell in love with the cool design. I reversed the coloring only because we felt the walnut would look best against the particular picture it's for.

I'll post a picture or two of the framed picture in your frame tutorial as a testamonial to your method :thumbsup:

This frame is actually done. Well, I'd like to give it one more coat of poly. But I've been sitting on top of a mountain (4,4xx feet high) in Maggie Valley, South Carolina since Friday night. And we're not heading back to Florida until Sat. Morning. So it'll be another week until I update with frame pictures.
 
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