Yes, Maybe it has something to do with heartwood/sapwood? As I understand it, spalting is caused by a fungus. (The knob was a glue up)Bowls look nice! Send the knobs to me! Just kidding, I'd finish 'em up and use for a jig or sled sometime. It is interesting that the spalting only affected half the wood.
Thanks DaveNice looking bowls. :thumbsup:
I also started a tote and then ended up not liking the piece. I was using walnut but after cutting the shape same as yours, I felt the piece was too light and put this aside and started with a denser piece of walnut.
Nice shape on the knob. :thumbsup:
I much prefer making a knob to a tote. So much easier. :icon_smile:
I appreciate the hole angles are not consistent. If I have the original tote, it is easier to determine the specific angle for the plane.If I would just stop and use the caliper for size I'd be better off. The problem I have with totes is drilling the hole correctly.....maddening.
Ohhh, thanks. I'm no good with a hand plane. It just makes flat spots in everything so I have to turn it round again.adot45 said:Hello Bonanza35 The two wooden parts of a hand plane are the knob in front and the handle or tote in the rear. Dave
Nice knob and tote. :thumbsup:I need to figure out the size of the round over bit in relationship to the thickness of the tote . It was alright on this one but I also made a thicker one for an 8 and it ended up looking chunky & clunky. Maybe dig up a rasp and try to get it looking a little better.
Thanks DaveNice knob and tote. :thumbsup:
I like to make my totes from 1in thick stock. I use a 1/2in radius roundover bit on the tote. I do have to follow up with a decent amount of sanding.
A rasp can make quick work for shaping.
"Wow" adot, excellent work..!:thumbup1:
Seen you have your front screw for the tote now, and thank you for cluing me in on this site.
I would not use a radius which is > 1/2 the thickness of the tote, since we need the bearing support.Thanks Dave
We are going in to town today so before we go I'll check the size of my bit. If it is 3/8" I'll pick up a 1/2" bit, if it's a 1/2" then I'll get a 5/8" or 3/4". I know it was the largest I had in my limited selection. Yes, a flat base on the blank and drilling the tote bolt hole at 90* is step one and makes all the difference down the road. I'll also see what Lowe's has to offer for rasp's as well.
Yep, I see what you're saying Dave. I just checked my present bit and it's only a 3/8" passable on 1" stock but a 1/2" would be better. The larger bit size I meant for thicker totes for 7's and 8's. We are leaving for town now and I plan on getting a 1/2" round over bit.I would not use a radius which is > 1/2 the thickness of the tote, since we need the bearing support.
If you use e.g, 5/8in radius on a 1in thick tote, the first side will work, but on the other side the bearing will not have any flat area for support. It will ride on the curve of the other side giving an asymmetrical look to the tote.