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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are two bowls I made out of spalted beech. The finish is paste wax. They are 8".



I started a knob and a tote but soon realized I wasn't going to like the light colored wood on planes.

 

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Bowls look nice! Send the knobs to me! Just kidding, I'd finish 'em up and use for a jig or sled sometime. It is interesting that the spalting only affected half the wood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Bowls look nice! Send the knobs to me! Just kidding, I'd finish 'em up and use for a jig or sled sometime. It is interesting that the spalting only affected half the wood.
Yes, Maybe it has something to do with heartwood/sapwood? As I understand it, spalting is caused by a fungus. (The knob was a glue up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank You for the very kind words Gus. The real fact of the matter is that I am a beginner at wood turning. Previous to these bowls, I made a faceplate and little stub shaft for my lathe, the bowls were my first real projects. I hope it wasn't beginners luck!
 

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Nice looking bowls. :thumbsup:

I also started a tote and then ended up not liking the piece. I was using walnut but after cutting the shape same as yours, I felt the piece was too light and put this aside and started with a denser piece of walnut.

Nice shape on the knob. :thumbsup:

I much prefer making a knob to a tote. So much easier. :icon_smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nice looking bowls. :thumbsup:

I also started a tote and then ended up not liking the piece. I was using walnut but after cutting the shape same as yours, I felt the piece was too light and put this aside and started with a denser piece of walnut.

Nice shape on the knob. :thumbsup:

I much prefer making a knob to a tote. So much easier. :icon_smile:
Thanks Dave

I had fun making the knob.....I was stylin' and the chips were flyin',
the base of it is a little too small for what I was making it for but I'll use it on something else. If I would just stop and use the caliper for size I'd be better off. The problem I have with totes is drilling the hole correctly.....maddening.
 

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If I would just stop and use the caliper for size I'd be better off. The problem I have with totes is drilling the hole correctly.....maddening.
I appreciate the hole angles are not consistent. If I have the original tote, it is easier to determine the specific angle for the plane.

I drill the hole first, ideally at 90 deg to the base of the blank.

The part I do not like is the rounding of the edges in the router table. Many different angles, some easy and match the spin of the router bit, some need climbing cuts to avoid digging in. I find always some tension in case the bit grabs and sends the tote blank flying. Not fun when this happens. :huh:
 

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Ok, showing my ignorance here: what the h is a tote? I like the wood and the design but I'm not really sure what else I'm supposed to be appreciating:).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello Bonanza35 The two wooden parts of a hand plane are the knob in front and the handle or tote in the rear. Dave
 

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adot45 said:
Hello Bonanza35 The two wooden parts of a hand plane are the knob in front and the handle or tote in the rear. Dave
Ohhh, thanks. I'm no good with a hand plane. It just makes flat spots in everything so I have to turn it round again.
 

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They all look well made. Beautiful wood, has pretty grain patterns and like the shapes. Quite impressive for a beginner in turning. Great job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I decided to see what I could do to finish the knob and tote. Here they are with Howard's Furniture Restore-Cherry on them and a few coats of lacquer. Also shown on an old 5 trader.





I need to figure out the size of the round over bit in relationship to the thickness of the tote . It was alright on this one but I also made a thicker one for an 8 and it ended up looking chunky & clunky. Maybe dig up a rasp and try to get it looking a little better.
 

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I need to figure out the size of the round over bit in relationship to the thickness of the tote . It was alright on this one but I also made a thicker one for an 8 and it ended up looking chunky & clunky. Maybe dig up a rasp and try to get it looking a little better.
Nice knob and tote. :thumbsup:

I like to make my totes from 1in thick stock. I use a 1/2in radius roundover bit on the tote. I do have to follow up with a decent amount of sanding.

A rasp can make quick work for shaping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice knob and tote. :thumbsup:

I like to make my totes from 1in thick stock. I use a 1/2in radius roundover bit on the tote. I do have to follow up with a decent amount of sanding.

A rasp can make quick work for shaping.
Thanks Dave

We are going in to town today so before we go I'll check the size of my bit. If it is 3/8" I'll pick up a 1/2" bit, if it's a 1/2" then I'll get a 5/8" or 3/4". I know it was the largest I had in my limited selection. Yes, a flat base on the blank and drilling the tote bolt hole at 90* is step one and makes all the difference down the road. I'll also see what Lowe's has to offer for rasp's as well.
 

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"Wow" adot, excellent work..!:thumbup1:
Seen you have your front screw for the tote now, and thank you for cluing me in on this site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
"Wow" adot, excellent work..!:thumbup1:
Seen you have your front screw for the tote now, and thank you for cluing me in on this site.

Hi acowboy, glad you checked it out. There are great people here with a wealth of knowledge and are willing to share it too. But the single most important thing that's here is....activity!.

Now about that tote screw, look closer and you'll see it's a frog screw from one of my parts planes....:laughing:.....sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Also, you can get suggestions for a work around for drilling the tote bolt hole without a DP too.
 

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Thanks Dave

We are going in to town today so before we go I'll check the size of my bit. If it is 3/8" I'll pick up a 1/2" bit, if it's a 1/2" then I'll get a 5/8" or 3/4". I know it was the largest I had in my limited selection. Yes, a flat base on the blank and drilling the tote bolt hole at 90* is step one and makes all the difference down the road. I'll also see what Lowe's has to offer for rasp's as well.
I would not use a radius which is > 1/2 the thickness of the tote, since we need the bearing support.

If you use e.g, 5/8in radius on a 1in thick tote, the first side will work, but on the other side the bearing will not have any flat area for support. It will ride on the curve of the other side giving an asymmetrical look to the tote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would not use a radius which is > 1/2 the thickness of the tote, since we need the bearing support.

If you use e.g, 5/8in radius on a 1in thick tote, the first side will work, but on the other side the bearing will not have any flat area for support. It will ride on the curve of the other side giving an asymmetrical look to the tote.
Yep, I see what you're saying Dave. I just checked my present bit and it's only a 3/8" passable on 1" stock but a 1/2" would be better. The larger bit size I meant for thicker totes for 7's and 8's. We are leaving for town now and I plan on getting a 1/2" round over bit.
 
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