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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building a chest of drawers for my daughter from Norm Abrams book. It calls for 1/2" pine for the sides of the drawers but I can't find any and I don't have a planer yet. I was thinking of using cabnet grade plywood instead but I don't have any idea if the plywood would be better or worse. could anyone tell me how well the plywood would stand up over time in comparison with solid pine? (the bottom of the drawers will slide on the wood frames) Also I will be cutting half blind dove tails and wondered if I would have any problems doing that in plywood. Any info would be greatly appreciated.:thumbsup:
 

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where's my table saw?
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plywood is fine, however

Tons of drawers have been made from 1/2" plywood, cabinet grade and others. Personally, I would not go to the trouble of the half blind DT's on plywood, rather use a locking drawer joint. It will be much faster and work just as well, however that's your choice.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5709&site=ROCKLER

http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...ge&fr=ytff1-tyc-inbox&va=locking+drawer+joint

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/understanding-cabinet-plywood.aspx

For a wood on wood slide system I would glue on a 1/4" or so layer of face grain hardwood on the bottoms. You could also "edge band" with a plastic laminate to reduce friction and increase longevity.

http://woodworking.rockler.com/search#w=edge band&asug=&sli_uuid=&sli_sid=
 

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The 1/2" stuff that NA calls for is "drawer side." 1/2" x 6", all sorts of different woods.
I buy it, is poplar. Beautiful flat wood holds good detail in relief carving. Why? I user it for carvings for wood block printing!

1/2" cabinet grade plywood is exactly that. Cannot fault the dimensional stability! Some people find the layered edge offensive, like you should have bought 1/2 mile of solid wood just because you can. Not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info!! With the locking drawer bit method, do you just glue it or would you suggest small nails to go with the glue?
 

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John
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+1 on the locking drawer joint. On plywood drawers, I also use that joint for the bottom to side, front and back, and glue the bottom in as you don't have expansion issues with plywood. Makes for an extremely rigid drawer.

For wood to wood slides, I've been running a shallow groove, about ~1/16", on the frame where the drawer will slide and install a 1/8" strip of UHMW for the drawer to ride on. You need to screw the UHMW down as I don't know of any cheap adhesive that will glue the stuff to wood. #6x1/2 or 3/8" SPAX work well. The groove will keep the UHMW in position, the screws just keep it from escaping.
 

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You can also get UHMW tape and put under the drawers. I've used quite a bit of this, and haven't seen any peel off yet, haven't seen it wear through either.
 

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where's my table saw?
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thanks

I wish I had known about this back when I made a lot of wood on wood sliding drawers.
 

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John
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Haven't tried the tape. I guess I have been concerned about the thickness. I've been buying 1/8"x12"x24" sheets from McMaster-Carr. That will slice into about 10 - 3/4"x24" pieces and runs about $15. Will have to give the tape a try next time around. :smile:
 

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I've never heard of the tape. I've used little plastic draw slides from hardware store. I tack them on the bottom and never had a problem with them.
 
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