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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question regarding solid mahogany doors.
We(S and S Custom Trim)are working on a client's home and he wants solid 8'x3' mahogany slab pocket doors for the study. They need to be solid so they can be carved on.The local door companies won't do them because they can't gaurantee that they will not twist.I have a pretty good idea on how I would do them but would like to hear some input from others,any suggestions?
 

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I would take large boards such as 10/4 x 12 w, surface them 4 sides. then rip them into 2 1/4 inch strips. Then glue them back together in their original order but every other piece reversed. (Use ureathane glue) Take those blanks and glue them up to make two halves of the door. Once dry I'd check both for flatness and dry fit them over each other. Flatten any high spots till they sit nice. Then glue them together using a vacuum press if you have one, or lots of clamps with straight wood cleats to get equal pressure across the face of the blanks. I'd also see if your client would allow you to make it with a rail on the top and bottom which would run against the grain of the field holding the door from twisting. Piece of cake!:blink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I was thinking of starting with properly dried mahogany then ripping it into 12-3"pcs.x 1 3/4" thick, joint the edges and flipping them end to end so the end grain is in opposite direction from one to the next to help with cupping and then run a solid horizontal 5" rail top and 8" on bottom with tongue /groove joinery,then sand to finish. That would be my approach and since mahogany is such a tight grained wood I don't think the joint lines would be that noticable except for the rail grain running horizontal. Any problems with this method or is twisting/cupping always going to be there given the lenght /width of the doors?
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Hieny,it looks as though we are on the same page. They can't be any thicker than 1 3/4" due to the framing of the pockets. I see why the door co. doesn't want to do them but hey, somebody has to so it might as well be me.....ka-ching$$$
Oh,good suggestion on the type of glue.
 

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Have you ever tried Spanish Cedar? In my mind it is the only way to go, even if you are matching existing doors. I have only seen one warp. It was a 4'00" 8'00" single light that had south western exposure and was not sealed. It is easy to work with, and a beautifull wood. It can be stained to match anything, except natural pine, or light woods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you ever tried Spanish Cedar? In my mind it is the only way to go, even if you are matching existing doors. I have only seen one warp. It was a 4'00" 8'00" single light that had south western exposure and was not sealed. It is easy to work with, and a beautifull wood. It can be stained to match anything, except natural pine, or light woods.

No I have never tried it but you are the second person that suggested it so I guess it will be a consideration. How are it's carving qualities?
I have to redo a screen door I built for a lady due to extreme exposure so I definatly will use it on that. I actually made six doors and this is the only one giving problems as the others are well protected from the elements.
 

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Amazing. So easy to work with. It is really fun to carve. the only bad thing is the dust. I wear a mask when I carve, or sand it, just because it tasts so bad, which is another good aspect, at least for exterior uses... because no bugs will eat it. I will try to post some picks of some of the doors that have been carved, But untill then, here is a link to a door company that only makes spanish cedar doors. http://entradawoods.com
 
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