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Here are some in progress pics of my newest kiln. Carson (left) and Evan (right) helped me build it, cut, split, load and stack all of the wood in this one and enough to fill 2 more. After the pics were taken we covered the wood with plastic until I can get the sides finished. I was stacking the wood onto the pallet as we got it cut so I built the kiln around it, pre loaded kiln :laughing:.

The front is removable as will be the permanent top. I also have another pallet the same size to build my next one waiting.

This one is loaded with walnut, Bradford pear, sweet gum, box elder and poplar.







 

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How long does it take to dry a load? I made a kiln out of an old freezer and light bulb. It took 3 months to dry 3" cherry blanks for pepper mills. I have my second load in. Also, do you have any temperature or humidity monitoring?
Tom
 

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No it is low tech. It is taking about that same time a month or so per inch. These simply sit in the yard till things are dry enough for me. You could of course do them up fancy and have all the cool goodies but I'm poor so this is what I use.
 

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I may have to give that a try. :thumbsup: I just replaced seven windows on the south side so I have 14 panels. Shouldn't take more than 6-8 to make up the kiln.
 

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Like everything else, I'm still a wannabe woodturner, so I'll ask a stupid question. What's the advantage to having dry wood to turn? OK, for something like peppermills, etc where dimensions are important, I understand. But for bowls, doesn't green wood turn easier, requiring less tool sharpening? Or is it just a way to quickly stablize a bulk amount of wood before you actually have time to turn all of it?

And a kiln without temperature control, doesn't that create problems to proper drying? If it gets too high, don't you get case hardening of the blanks, i.e. hard dry outside, wet in the middle?

If temp isn't important, then I have some branches and chunks of wood I want to dry for rustic shelf supports. I could rig a small fan for air movement to one of my black plastic barrels, chuck in the wood and set it out in the sun.
 

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Like everything else, I'm still a wannabe woodturner, so I'll ask a stupid question. What's the advantage to having dry wood to turn? OK, for something like peppermills, etc where dimensions are important, I understand. But for bowls, doesn't green wood turn easier, requiring less tool sharpening? Or is it just a way to quickly stablize a bulk amount of wood before you actually have time to turn all of it?

And a kiln without temperature control, doesn't that create problems to proper drying? If it gets too high, don't you get case hardening of the blanks, i.e. hard dry outside, wet in the middle?

If temp isn't important, then I have some branches and chunks of wood I want to dry for rustic shelf supports. I could rig a small fan for air movement to one of my black plastic barrels, chuck in the wood and set it out in the sun.
I turn almost all bowls green since it is far easier to turn I just turn thin to finish. These bowls are dried in a closet for a few days or till I get back to them. I do turn a few dry but my dry wood is for flat work, duck, goose, deer and pot calls which can't move after turning.

As far as temp controls note that this is a solar kiln, no power, so while I could figure out a way to worry about the temps I don't. The wood dries when it dries. I can't see that a little bit of density change in a blank is worth the trouble of worrying about at least for what I do.

And your idea for drying the rustic pieces should work just fine. I do seal the ends of all the wood I dry with latex paint. It does help and is far cheaper than anchorseal.

Let us know how that barrel works if you try it. I would add a vent top and bottom for air flow but that should do the trick.
 
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