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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello guys
i've finished staining my piece with a mix of wood glue and dye and now i want to make the piece smooth to the touch and seal it as best possible (just as a precaution -it's an interior piece).
problem is, the wood is incredibly rough, seeing i repurposed crate wood and some of the planks were in pretty bad shape with deep scratches and crevices which i wasnt able to remove without the planks loosing about half it's thickness in the sanding process!).

my question is, what would you recommend as a varnish which would fill in the crevices the wood still has, and by the end have it be smooth? will any varnish do? a non-toxic option is preferable, and on the cheaper side!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
still learning about how to make these look good. theres some noticeable blotches where the initial glue i used to hold the planks together at the corners are noticeable.
and the dye job turns out to be more complicated to get a consistent color than i thought, even when using a single mix to dye the whole thing, using dyed glue. perhaps the dyed dewaxed shellac (mentioned by @B Coll) might work better. the box looks much better than in the fotos btw!
 

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Thanks for the photos - What is it and how will it be used? What finish do you have on it now ?
Personally, I like the "rustic" look you have now. I wouldn't try to do anything else to it. (considering of how it will be used).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks - i quite like it myself. i dont intend to do anything else to it other than adorn it's lid by gluing some decorative corner pieces.

about the usage. i'm not sure. i initially thought i'd see if i could make a box ouf of the crate planks i have lying around. the purpose of making these is to try and sell them, so in between finishing the box, i'll come up with different uses for it, sketching up some interior pieces for different usages. one that comes to mind is a cigar box. maybe a knitting storage box with a couple divisions inside for each wool yarn. idk. i might present the box as is, with an interior customization, depending on what the person buying it wants to use it for.

as for the finish, i have none other than the dyed glue i painted on the sanded planks.
 

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I guess whatever "water based" clear satin finish you have in your area would be fine. I say water based is because of the glue that you have already applied. Other oil based finishes may not stick well. (stir well with a square flat end stick).
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
alright - thank you!
still worried about the "water based" seeping into glue, as i read that some wood glues aren't water resistant, but i guess the amount of water that could potentially seep in would be negligible, and seeing the varnish isn't pure water i guess i shouldn't worry!
ill probably still test on another plank first, but thanks so much!
 

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This is the time to practice on identical parts with the chemicals and finishes you intend to use.
Not ever a good idea to practice on a finished piece if you are not 100% certain of the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
there appears to be - anyone experienced in experimenting with thicker varnishes? if they're worth it? or will basically have the same outcome as a regular finish, coated multiple times?
 

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well, you are working with reclaimed crate wood - in some pretty rough shape. All the sanding and smoothing should be done before the stains and finish. (not after).
You are in Portugal - we don't know what is available in your market there. In this one project, call it a "prototype" and experiment with it. (call it your practice piece). It will take many (10-20) coats of a finish to get the results you want. OR - a coat of table top epoxy. What power tools do you have access to ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the problem with the sanding pre-stain or finish is that to get rid of some of those deeper scratches i would have reduced the thickness of the planks too much.

don't have access to a lot of power tools. why do you ask?
 

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Are you looking for just a smooth finish or a flat surface finish?
A smooth finish requires just a smoothing out of the rough surfaces and shouldn't be that big of a deal. If you want a flat surface finish, that is a whole different animal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
just a smooth finish @Tony B, but the rough surface is really rough.
Brown Table Rectangle Wood Wood stain

to sand it out, the planks will loose too much height, and, i kinda like them to have that rough look to it.

ill just try coating them a couple of times. perhaps it'll turn out well.
if not, then i'll have to use planks that aren't as "scarred",
or see if i can somehow fill the gaps with maybe that epoxy resin as @John Smith_inFL mentioned.
 

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The problem with multiple layers is that there are practical limits as to how many coats and how thick a finish you want without the surface cracking with the exception of epoxy
Epoxy can go on thick and so that might be your only alternative
 

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Varathane makes a Triple Thick water based product:
There are probably some other similar products available. I don't have any experience with the Triple Thick, but I have good experience with the standard thickness Varathane product.
If you are trying to fill in the deep saw marks and end up with a glass smooth finish, you will need to extensively sand back the first and maybe the second coats untill they are almost gone; just leaving the finish material in the scratches. Doing this enough times will result in a smooth surface with the scratches filled by the poly.
 

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I have some Triple Thick Glaze that I use on small projects. (watch the video at the bottom of the listing). It works well and you can apply several coats as per instructions on the can. It is made by different paint manufacturers. Available at our Big Box Stores. And to emphacise again, practice on like material first.
Liquid Drinkware Bottle Fluid Drink
 

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thanks - i quite like it myself. i dont intend to do anything else to it other than adorn it's lid by gluing some decorative corner pieces.

about the usage. i'm not sure. i initially thought i'd see if i could make a box ouf of the crate planks i have lying around. the purpose of making these is to try and sell them, so in between finishing the box, i'll come up with different uses for it, sketching up some interior pieces for different usages. one that comes to mind is a cigar box. maybe a knitting storage box with a couple divisions inside for each wool yarn. idk. i might present the box as is, with an interior customization, depending on what the person buying it wants to use it for.

as for the finish, i have none other than the dyed glue i painted on the sanded planks.
I would suggest a water borne finish of some type, preferably a flat sheen. Any gloss level will accentuate any defect in the wood. Build the finish with thin multiple coats knocking down the high spots with fine sand paper on a rubber, cork backed, or wood block between coats. You may already be aware of this but I would caution against using pallets unless you now their complete history. Many come in contact with toxic chemicals in their life and are not suitable to be in a home.
 
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