Slotting plywood together

3688 Views 56 Replies 7 Participants Last post by 4DThinker, 5 mo ago

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

Hi all - relatively new to woodworking and don't have a huge amount of tools or experience etc.

I have the idea to make a shoe rack from the cheapest thing I could find locally (9mm plywood). I would have liked thicker, but price was putting me off.

I am planning to just slot the plywood together. But haven't had any experience of doing that and cant find much at all on the forum or internet - maybe becasue it's so simple , no one bothers to write it up?

Do I literally cut the slots at 9mm? I don't have a router or table saw , so would I just see what my circular saw blade removes and work around that?
I plan on 3 'legs' / cross section pieces and 3 shelves, so would it stand and support itself or do I need to do something else ?

Any tips appreciated.

41 - 57 of 57 Posts

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #41 · 5 mo ago

4DThinker said:
A link or a book I've often searched for. The creative environment of a design college and teaching furniture design to creative students is what inspired my pursuit for original joinery solutions. I have my own shop full of tools including a couple small CNCs to experiment with. I often was challenged to solve the impossible and would come home to sleep on the challenge. Usually early the next morning I'd have an idea to test out before meeting my classes that day. I'd bring my sample solution(s) in to show the students. I retired at the end of the Spring semester last year and my blog has become my repository for the repeatable useful ideas. There might be a book in there among the posts. The solutions that were unique to a specific project left the building when the student graduated. My "Process" evolved from a natural engineering/architecture aptitude, mechanical drafting courses taken in high school, a couple of design degrees and 4 decades of that creative interaction with students and other faculty. Our Workshop 2 furniture class project was to design something that could be compressed down to 1/3 of its assembled volume for storage or shipping. The knock-down ideas came from teaching those classes. Using a CNC it easy to create a pocket to embed a square nut in. Machine screws/bolts are the best repeatable strategy for assembling furniture that you want to disassemble later. The better looking furniture connection bolts out there make this potentially an attractive detail.
4D

I admire the leaning shelves on your blog and love the PHdesk! I was trying to comment on the blog post but it wouldn't allow it (said 403 forbidden) - that desk is a little beauty and proven itself out in the real world, so what more could be asked of it? Superb work.

I might give it a go,(or something very much like it) any tips before I start?

I think you have a book's worth within that blog, without doubt, I'd buy it.

I'm part way through the audiobook 'Shop Class as SoulCraft' by Matthew B Crawford, and part of the appeal is his reference to his teaching design in college.

4DThinker

· #42 · 5 mo ago

LumberJoe said:
I admire the leaning shelves on your blog and love the PHdesk! I was trying to comment on the blog post but it wouldn't allow it (said 403 forbidden) - that desk is a little beauty and proven itself out in the real world, so what more could be asked of it? Superb work.

Thanks. I'm not sure why you weren't able to comment on my blog unless you weren't signed into a google account when you tried.

Yep, that desk has been the most repeated build of mine. I made them all before I had a CNC to use, and the design is pretty, well, obvious. Legs 2" wide and 1.25" thick. The hook in the legs is what allows the desk to fold up nice and flat. Top of the desk was 12mm baltic birch. Bottom was 1/4" masonite hardboard. Furniture connection bolts and nylon washers between moving parts. A 1" radius roundover bit on a router table rounded the front and back of the desktop. I've used maple, oak, and cherry for different builds. Added veneer to the bb top to match whatever wood I had used. If you try to make one and have any questions just ask here.

The only halving joint project I've made for myself was a bed platform with drawers that stayed with my first ex-wife in 1980ish. Plenty of student projects over the years though did inspire the tapered halving CNC cut joint.
4D

See less See more

Reactions: 1

BigCountry79

· #43 · 5 mo ago

LumberJoe said:
Do you think there is any way, by hand, to mimic that method you explain on the CNC on your blog?

It's done often by hand by simply making a slightly tapered slot or key. The simplest way with your method is simply sand off some of your jig sides close to the entry and don't touch it at the deepest part. Make sure the router rides both sides as you cut into the plywood. Adjust it to fit.

Reactions: 1

Half Fast Eddie

· #44 · 5 mo ago (Edited)

LumberJoe said:
I was getting a bit fatigued after the 20th cut on that shelving job , what with the clamping, squaring up, and adjusting the router bit length etc.

On the underside of the jig, fasten a strip of ply to act as a fence, or guide. Need to do it carefully so it’s square to the slot. This is a sketch of the underside of your jig … the fence keeps the jig square to the desired slot, and the correct depth.

wait … better sketch coming soon …

See less See more

Reactions: 2

Half Fast Eddie

· #45 · 5 mo ago

See if this makes sense. Make your basic jig, then add a full-width strip on the underside. A fence. Then run the router into the jig to cut the slot, and what you end up with is a jug that squares to the sheet of ply, sets the depth, and you can see the exact location of the slot.

Rectangle Slope Triangle Plot Font

Wood Asphalt Automotive tire Rectangle Electronic device

See less See more

2

Reactions: 2

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #46 · 5 mo ago

Half Fast Eddie said:
See if this makes sense. Make your basic jig, then add a full-width strip on the underside. A fence. Then run the router into the jig to cut the slot, and what you end up with is a jug that squares to the sheet of ply, sets the depth, and you can see the exact location of the slot.
View attachment 446366

View attachment 446367

That is great! Thank you very much.

How can it be so obvious to me now? I guess that after cutting 500 or so slots, I might have figured that out on my own (or maybe not?)

4DThinker

· #47 · 5 mo ago

LumberJoe said:
How can it be so obvious to me now? I guess that after cutting 500 or so slots, I might have figured that out on my own (or maybe not?)

Don't fret. 99% of things done successfully don't ever find a reason to evolve. You already succeeded in making all the slots you needed to. You had and used the tools needed. The project works. Make another one though and take advantage of the great suggestions posted above. Post it here and I'll bet you still get 3 or 4 new ways to do that job easier, more precisely, and even in less time.

4D

Reactions: 1

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #48 · 5 mo ago

4DThinker said:
Don't fret. 99% of things done successfully don't ever find a reason to evolve. You already succeeded in making all the slots you needed to. You had and used the tools needed. The project works. Make another one though and take advantage of the great suggestions posted above. Post it here and I'll bet you still get 3 or 4 new ways to do that job easier, more precisely, and even in less time.
4D

Thanks for encouragement and offers of help. Much appreciated

4DThinker

· #49 · 5 mo ago

I've been looking for a project to build besides shop items, and as the PhDesk always sells quickly I've drawn up a fresh detailed drawing and ordered some quarter sawn white oak veneer for the top(s). I'll make a trip to my closest hardwood source (Roberson's Lumber in Silver Lake KS) to pick up some 12mm baltic birch ply, white oak for the top frames and leg sets.

Four of them to make will be incentive to actually work on selling them, and should keep me busy for a few weeks at least. Four also makes good use of the sheet material needed as I can get 4 tops from a 4'x8' sheet and 4 bottoms from a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" hardboard. No part of the design is longer than 4', so I'll have the lumberyard cut all the wood into 4' long pieces to fit inside my car or Ford Connect van if I can get it started.

I've attached a PDF side view that should be 1/4 scale when printed out. Desk height 29". Desk depth 24". Desk length variable but I usually make mine 44 inches. Feel free to make your own.

As I have a CNC I'll likely do some creative joinery between desk top parts and embed square nuts for the leg top bolt to screw into. Dowels or dominos would be fine between frame sides and front/back. A threaded insert is what I used before I had a CNC. I put a desk drawer in the middle, and may also rethink how it mounts and slides this time. I like the soft-close slides that are pretty common these days.

4D

See less See more

Reactions: 1

Half Fast Eddie

· #50 · 5 mo ago

4DThinker said:
I've been looking for a project to build besides shop items, and as the PhDesk always sells quickly I've drawn up a fresh detailed drawing and ordered some quarter sawn white oak

Why didn't you post this as a new discussion, so you didn’t dilute the OP?

4DThinker

· #51 · 5 mo ago

Half Fast Eddie said:
Why didn't you post this as a new discussion, so you didn’t dilute the OP?

The OP, LumberJoe, had already brought up my desk design in this thread, and mentioned he might be interested in making one for himself. I'll start a new thread when I have materials on hand and actually start making a few more to sell. Just trying to follow up the side story that also started in this thread.
4D

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #52 · 5 mo ago

@Half Fast Eddie I was totally looking for plywood inspiration and methods and was twisting 4D's arm for as much as I could get!

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #53 · 5 mo ago (Edited)

4DThinker said:
I've been looking for a project to build besides shop items, and as the PhDesk always sells quickly I've drawn up a fresh detailed drawing and ordered some quarter sawn white oak veneer for the top(s). I'll make a trip to my closest hardwood source (Roberson's Lumber in Silver Lake KS) to pick up some 12mm baltic birch ply, white oak for the top frames and leg sets.

Four of them to make will be incentive to actually work on selling them, and should keep me busy for a few weeks at least. Four also makes good use of the sheet material needed as I can get 4 tops from a 4'x8' sheet and 4 bottoms from a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" hardboard. No part of the design is longer than 4', so I'll have the lumberyard cut all the wood into 4' long pieces to fit inside my car or Ford Connect van if I can get it started.

I've attached a PDF side view that should be 1/4 scale when printed out. Desk height 29". Desk depth 24". Desk length variable but I usually make mine 44 inches. Feel free to make your own.

As I have a CNC I'll likely do some creative joinery between desk top parts and embed square nuts for the leg top bolt to screw into. Dowels or dominos would be fine between frame sides and front/back. A threaded insert is what I used before I had a CNC. I put a desk drawer in the middle, and may also rethink how it mounts and slides this time. I like the soft-close slides that are pretty common these days.

4D

Is it possible to explain how that drawer is constructed please? It's very neat but I can't really 'see' what is going on there

EDIT - I messaged you on this

4DThinker

· #54 · 5 mo ago

LumberJoe said:
Is it possible to explain how that drawer is constructed please? It's very neat but I can't really 'see' what is going on there

Possible for sure. Drawer front is a section of the front half round you can see a section view of in the PDF I posted. It is modified to receive drawer sides notched into the side corners, and a 1/4" thick drawer bottom into the half inch section. I'll draw up a top view and section of just the drawer later today and post it here.

Reactions: 1

4DThinker

· #55 · 5 mo ago

Attached is a plan view with most of the construction details shown. Bottom of the drawer is 1/4" thick hardboard inset with a 1/8" rabbet on the edges tucked into a 1/8" x 1/8" wide slot 1/8" up from the bottom edges. My actual drawer has a couple dividers in it. Once for pencils and such 2" from the front, and another dividing the rest of the space into 1/4-3/4 sections. This plan shows the width of the desk to be 36", but mine is 44, and you could make yours any width you want up to 48". My former department head made one 36" wide to fit inside a bedroom closet space he had as a small office where he hid himself from his kids when he needed to concentrate on doing taxes or paying bills.
4D

Reactions: 1

LumberJoe

Discussion Starter · #56 · 5 mo ago

4DThinker said:
Attached is a plan view with most of the construction details shown. Bottom of the drawer is 1/4" thick hardboard inset with a 1/8" rabbet on the edges tucked into a 1/8" x 1/8" wide slot 1/8" up from the bottom edges. My actual drawer has a couple dividers in it. Once for pencils and such 2" from the front, and another dividing the rest of the space into 1/4-3/4 sections. This plan shows the width of the desk to be 36", but mine is 44, and you could make yours any width you want up to 48". My former department head made one 36" wide to fit inside a bedroom closet space he had as a small office where he hid himself from his kids when he needed to concentrate on doing taxes or paying bills.
4D

Very helpful , thanks! I think I get it.
Well thought out and neat. Much appreciated

4DThinker

· #57 · 5 mo ago

The joint connector bolts and barrel nuts, as well as the nylon washer for the 4 desks I'll be building should arrive today. I already have some veneer for the tops and drawer slides that will fit. I need to make a trip to a town 35 miles away where a good hardwood seller resides to get the hardwood I'll use.

41 - 57 of 57 Posts