9 mm is 3/8” … so it would work for a shoe rack if each cubby is only big enough for one pair of shoes. And as someone else pointed out, it needs at least a partial back for stability.
Posts by Half Fast Eddie
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yes.
But … you could add solid wood trim to the entire face to hide the plies and add strength. 6mm x 12 mm trim would work. Glue and use short 18 ga brads.
If you have a table saw, you can rip strips off a 2x4 stud. Doesn’t have to be fancy wood. The solid wood hides the plies, and the thicker (taller) dimension adds rigidity. It’s done with bookshelves all the time.
And check that the ply is actually 9 mm thick.
Here in the colonies we can buy undersize router bits, that are supposed to be matched to the odd size plywood.
Simple jigs like that can make a huge difference.
Make it a little longer than necessary so you have some overhang and it will prevent the entry dings.
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Make it a little longer than necessary so you have some overhang and it will prevent the entry dings.
On the underside of the jig, fasten a strip of ply to act as a fence, or guide. Need to do it carefully so it’s square to the slot. This is a sketch of the underside of your jig … the fence keeps the jig square to the desired slot, and the correct depth.
wait … better sketch coming soon …
Attachments
See if this makes sense. Make your basic jig, then add a full-width strip on the underside. A fence. Then run the router into the jig to cut the slot, and what you end up with is a jug that squares to the sheet of ply, sets the depth, and you can see the exact location of the slot.
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Why didn't you post this as a new discussion, so you didn’t dilute the OP?
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