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I have purchased this table at Lowe's and upon reading the manual, it states not to use bits larger than 2 1/2" diameter. I have a set of rail and stile/raised panel bits in which the raised panel bit is 3 1/2" diameter. I am using a skil 2 1/4 hp router on this table and am thinking that If I use the largest hole insert then install the bit through the top of the table, then I should be able to use it. The fence can be modified to use this diameter bit by cutting the ends a little.

Other than the bit coming into contact with the adjustable fence, is there anything that could happen by using this dia. bit? I always make sure that I have a sturdy setup and that my bits/blades are tight so there is no worry about slippage.
 

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John
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I have purchased this table at Lowe's and upon reading the manual, it states not to use bits larger than 2 1/2" diameter. I have a set of rail and stile/raised panel bits in which the raised panel bit is 3 1/2" diameter. I am using a skil 2 1/4 hp router on this table and am thinking that If I use the largest hole insert then install the bit through the top of the table, then I should be able to use it. The fence can be modified to use this diameter bit by cutting the ends a little.

Other than the bit coming into contact with the adjustable fence, is there anything that could happen by using this dia. bit? I always make sure that I have a sturdy setup and that my bits/blades are tight so there is no worry about slippage.
I suspect the table will take more butchering than you are envisioning. The R&S bits should be no problem. The raised panel will need to get below the table surface somehow. Will the panel bit go below the surface with no insert in place? May need to consider a false table top or even a table build specifically for this job. Quicky router tables are an easy build, just need a board with a hole in it. The 2.25 HP router isn't an issue but I do hope it is variable speed. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suspect the table will take more butchering than you are envisioning. The R&S bits should be no problem. The raised panel will need to get below the table surface somehow. Will the panel bit go below the surface with no insert in place? May need to consider a false table top or even a table build specifically for this job. Quicky router tables are an easy build, just need a board with a hole in it. The 2.25 HP router isn't an issue but I do hope it is variable speed. :smile:
I checked the table. Even if I remove the plastic insert which denotes the bit rotation, I only have just shy of 3 3/8". I may be able to get a piece of 3/4" MDF and build a table which copies this one but has a larger hole in the middle. Good/Bad idea???

And yes, the router is a variable speed. It's the 1830 combo kit I got from Home Depot on special for $89.
 

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John
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A piece of 3/4 MDF would do nicely. I would attach the router near the center of the MDF before drilling the hole for the bit. Use the plunge base with the router attached to the MDF and plunge a 1/4" hole through the MDF and then use that hole as a center to cut a 3-3/4" hole for the panel raising bit. Using that method, there is no way your router cannot be centered. Any straight piece of wood or MDF can then be used for a fence, it will just need to be notched a little to provide some bit clearance. :thumbsup:
 
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