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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys!

I just started making some slab furniture and I'm finding myself really confused at how to create a system with my finishing materials.

I'm wasting brushes, wasting cleaners, wasting time and wasting money right now. I pretty much don't know what I'm doing. :blink:

These slabs are coffee tables and dining room tables. Making them pretty durable is key. Currently I'm using brush-on lacquer which covering table top sized wood just isn't coming out very well. Very testy finish... Brush marks, bubbles.

I'm trying to find a really simple process, clear as glass finish, and acquire a good supply list. Can someone help me sort out an easy list and process?

First off I'm mostly using Cedar and Maple. I don't stain very much but I'd like a finish that works well with both.

I just bought some Sanding Sealer to give me a good base coat. Then I was thinking about using Water-Based Polycrylic to build my finish? 4-10 coats should build a nice top?


  • What brush type should I buy?
  • Should I buy Polycrylic or Polyurethane? What's the difference?
  • How do I clean my brushes? (When I'm using mineral spirits with my lacquer it's just clotting up my brushes...strange reaction?)
  • I'd like to use a wax, any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Matthew
 

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Scotty D
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4,479 Posts
I'll try an answer a couple of your ques.

MS, will not cut laq. you need to use laquer thinner to clean your brush.

On larger surfaces, spraying is really the way to go.

I would suggest you look into, compressor, filter, and HVLP gun.

Then you could spray a vinyl sealer, quick sand with 320x, tack off, 2 coats of pre-cat laq. all within a couple hours, and your done.

That would provide a very durable finish. :smile:
 

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Old School
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24,017 Posts

Hi guys!

What brush type should I buy?Should I buy Polycrylic or Polyurethane? What's the difference?
How do I clean my brushes? (When I'm using mineral spirits with my lacquer it's just clotting up my brushes...strange reaction?)
I'd like to use a wax, any suggestions?Thanks in advance!
Matthew
Polycrylic is a water base polyurethane.

Waterbase polyurethane works best when sprayed. If you have to brush it on use a synthetic bristle brush. It cleans up with water.

If you use solvent base lacquer, you need to use lacquer thinner to clean brushes, not mineral spirits.

As for wax...I would suggest not using it.

There is also an oil base polyurethane. It works best when wiped on. If you brush it on a natural bristle brush works best. I suggest using a Badger hair brush. Thinning and clean up would be with mineral spirits.








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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll try an answer a couple of your ques.

MS, will not cut laq. you need to use laquer thinner to clean your brush.

On larger surfaces, spraying is really the way to go.

I would suggest you look into, compressor, filter, and HVLP gun.

Then you could spray a vinyl sealer, quick sand with 320x, tack off, 2 coats of pre-cat laq. all within a couple hours, and your done.

That would provide a very durable finish. :smile:
Thanks for the quick response! Appreciate it.

I've been talking about trying to spray, I come from an autobody background so I have a pretty decent understanding of how that process works.

Is Vinyl Sealer being used to give a base/fill grain a little? (like primer?)

Could I use a more fume friendly product? Usually these products are in the peoples house about a week after it's made, so it'd be nice if it didn't have that chemical smell still.
 

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Scotty D
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Thanks for the quick response! Appreciate it.

I've been talking about trying to spray, I come from an autobody background so I have a pretty decent understanding of how that process works.

Is Vinyl Sealer being used to give a base/fill grain a little? (like primer?)

Could I use a more fume friendly product? Usually these products are in the peoples house about a week after it's made, so it'd be nice if it didn't have that chemical smell still.

Yes the sealer will help to fill the grain, it also helps with the laq. addhesion. Pre-cat laq. is dry to the touch and ready to recoat in 20-30 min. It is fully cured in less than 10 days.

As far as fume friendly, the water based poly would proly be your best bet.... I just was not happy with the results the one time I tried it. I didn't think it provided as durable of finish, others love it.

I have never had a problem with laq. :smile:
 

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I'll try an answer a couple of your ques.

MS, will not cut laq. you need to use laquer thinner to clean your brush.

On larger surfaces, spraying is really the way to go.

I would suggest you look into, compressor, filter, and HVLP gun.

Then you could spray a vinyl sealer, quick sand with 320x, tack off, 2 coats of pre-cat laq. all within a couple hours, and your done.

That would provide a very durable finish. :smile:
+1.

Also note that the vinyl sealer makes the finish more water resistant, not that pre-cat lacquer needs it, but I use it anyway.
If you use an HVLP gun there will be much less fumes, much less (almost half) waste and after a day or two, there is no lingering odor.
 
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