Should I buy a planer?

1578 Views 36 Replies 19 Participants Last post by Biotec, 2 mo ago

Newbiejosh

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago (Edited)

I found a good deal on a new in box dewalt 735 on Facebook marketplace but don’t know if I should actually pull the trigger as I don’t know I a planer. I do not plan on buying a jointer. I have about half of a 3rd bay to store all my equipment so space is at a premium. I usually keep things on mobile carts and take them to drive way to work with when possible.

I have a Kreg track saw and feel I can do most everything I would want to do with a table saw with it.
I have a 10 inch sliding miter saw
I have a trim router
other than that just clamps, sanders, drills/drivers, and a Kreg 720 pocket screw jig.

I am definitely a hobbyist primarily making things for my house or family. Maybe trying to sell something occasionally.

I’ve only ever used line 1x or 2x lumbar and plywood until I bought some s4s hardwood recently and built a chessboard.
some other things I’ve built recently include miter saw cabinet/stand, some outdoor benches, indoor bench/shoe cubby, some playing card holders, a console table, firepit table cover, planters, desk with cabinets under it, and beds for my kids

A dining room table and a hall tree (entry bench) are next on the list. I’d like to get into hardwoods next.

If I buy s2s lumber can I get usable with just my tracksaw? What about if I purchase s3s? Would a planer be helpful for me?

21 - 37 of 37 Posts

kindanewbie

· #21 · 2 mo ago

DrRobert said:
While you can certainly get by with surfaced lumber, the issue there is finding straight boards and the fact that anything you do to straighten them will reduce the thickness.

Personally, I think the first ”planer” you buy should be a hand plane. I would start with a #4 and #6. You can flatten any board with hand planes.

Another option is stick with surfaced lumber and buy an open end drum sander. 😉

Input from a novice so take it as you will... If youre questioning how hard it is or how good you have to be to flatten a board with a hand plane vs a machine, dont. My assumption was that it was an "old school" view but quickly realized how easy it is (being slow and deliberate and checking as you go of course)

I see a lot of resawing rough stock in my near future for some projects and its tough (for me) to be really good at that. So boards will definitely need to be thicknessed. My first instinct was to look for a thickness planer but I have since reconsidered. A good hand plane, sharpened and a drum sander (I plan on making from some youtube plans) will do the trick.

The jointer, to me, is still invaluable. Although with proper jigs Im sure handplanes can get just as perfect a jointed side. Im just not there yet.

JayArr

· #22 · 2 mo ago

Since I bought a used jointer and a planer I haven't bought any finished lumber. It's all rough cut and I mill it myself which saves a lot of money. I'm still just a weekend warrior so my jointer was used ($200?) and the planer is entry level ($400?)

Rebelwork

· #23 · 2 mo ago

JayArr said:
Since I bought a used jointer and a planer I haven't bought any finished lumber. It's all rough cut and I mill it myself which saves a lot of money. I'm still just a weekend warrior so my jointer was used ($200?) and the planer is entry level ($400?)

That’s an option. Mine is to buy from a cabinet supply house and eliminate unwanted work. You’re not saving enough to warrant the extra muscle, planing, jointing and all the clean up. If you like the labor, by all means do the extra work.

difalkner

· #24 · 2 mo ago

Rebelwork said:
If you like the labor, by all means do the extra work.

For me it's all about having control over the thickness of boards I use. If I have a 3/4" board of Walnut but really want 5/8" for my project I don't always want to resaw that tiny bit off. Sometimes I do and just keep the thinner pieces for future projects.

Reactions: 1

Rebelwork

· #25 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

difalkner said:
For me it's all about having control over the thickness of boards I use. If I have a 3/4" board of Walnut but really want 5/8" for my project I don't always want to resaw that tiny bit off. Sometimes I do and just keep the thinner pieces for future projects.

I have total control of my supplier. They don’t tell me what I want it, I tell them what I want..

I think the difference for professionals and hobbyist is about time and money..
I don’t think even now as it’s a hobby Ill give up the professional thinking..

difalkner

· #26 · 2 mo ago

Rebelwork said:
I have total control of my supplier. They don’t tell me what I want it, I tell them what I want..

I don't want my supplier thicknessing boards for my projects. I want full control. Most of my projects are one-off small commissioned pieces and I thickness boards as needed, can't go to my suppliers each time I need a new thickness. I don't do near the volume you do nor is there any standardization of my projects. But I understand going to your supplier works for you, so that's cool.

Reactions: 1

woodnthings

· #27 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

7

kindanewbie said:
Input from a novice so take it as you will... If youre questioning how hard it is or how good you have to be to flatten a board with a hand plane vs a machine, dont. My assumption was that it was an "old school" view but quickly realized how easy it is (being slow and deliberate and checking as you go of course)

I see a lot of resawing rough stock in my near future for some projects and its tough (for me) to be really good at that. So boards will definitely need to be thicknessed. My first instinct was to look for a thickness planer but I have since reconsidered. A good hand plane, sharpened and a drum sander (I plan on making from some youtube plans) will do the trick.

The jointer, to me, is still invaluable. Although with proper jigs Im sure handplanes can get just as perfect a jointed side. Im just not there yet.

If you have the patience, the determination and the stamina/upper body strength THEN hand planing is a great way to go!
My hand planing days have long since past. I still use a block or bull nose plane when the situation requires it, I'm going to use my 6" jointer for face flattening and my table saw straight line sled for edges.
I did make a sled for boards wider then 6" for use in my 13" Foley Belsaw thickness planer.
It's quick and easy to use:

100_1340.jpg
116.4 KBViews: 3,489
100_1341.jpg
87.9 KBViews: 3,247
100_1342.jpg
116.7 KBViews: 1,407
100_1343.jpg
82.7 KBViews: 1,459
100_1346.jpg
90.7 KBViews: 1,751
100_1349.jpg
81 KBViews: 926

See less See more

Reactions: 1

Newbiejosh

Discussion Starter · #28 · 2 mo ago

Thanks for the feedback all. I have limited time to spend working on projects too and I’m getting the impression that it can take a lot of time to get rough lumbar milled on small bench top equipment. I’d rather spend a little extra to get it s2s and save the time and space at this point. Once I tackle a few hardwood projects that might
Change down the road

Rebelwork

· #29 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

difalkner said:
I don't want my supplier thicknessing boards for my projects. I want full control. Most of my projects are one-off small commissioned pieces and I thickness boards as needed, can't go to my suppliers each time I need a new thickness. I don't do near the volume you do nor is there any standardization of my projects. But I understand going to your supplier works for you, so that's cool.

I understand… You do small commission jobs and I do large commission jobs. I’m still touching and sizing every board thats on my project. If I need large thickness boards I just order it.

Nothing is any different on a smaller scale than on a larger scale if only one person is handling the project.

Commission work.. I did a lot of commissioned projects while at the furniture company. Some local and some not. I probably have at least one commissioned piece in every state if not two..

I’ve been out of that game since 2019

Reactions: 2

DrRobert

· #30 · 2 mo ago

Newbiejosh said:
Thanks for the feedback all. I have limited time to spend working on projects too and I’m getting the impression that it can take a lot of time to get rough lumbar milled on small bench top equipment. I’d rather spend a little extra to get it s2s and save the time and space at this point. Once I tackle a few hardwood projects that might
Change down the road

Good way to start 👍

RioVistaAndy

· #31 · 2 mo ago

Dave McCann said:
inthewoodshop_886

I understand how a planer works. Apparently the definition of the term "coplanar" as used in the United States, is not the same worldwide.

The term Coplanar is used in a lot of industrial work and even in architectural design. The term is used all over the world. Frank Loyd Wright used the term when discussing many of his later works such as Falling Waters as having coplanar lines. It is some times stated a bit differently as Collinier.

woodnthings

· #32 · 2 mo ago

RioVistaAndy said:
The term Coplanar is used in a lot of industrial work and even in architectural design. The term is used all over the world. Frank Loyd Wright used the term when discussing many of his later works such as Falling Waters as having coplanar lines. It is some times stated a bit differently as Collinier.

I don't think that lines can be co-planer only parallel. Lines are not planes so they can't be co-planer.
Lines drawn on a flat plane like paper, would be in the same plane, but are not structural elements like roofs.
Lines are used in the drawing of buildings, but not their construction.

difalkner

· #33 · 2 mo ago

RioVistaAndy said:
It is some times stated a bit differently as Collinier.

Collinear and coplanar are (generally) different. Collinear means three or more points lie along the same line. Coplanar means the points are on the same plane. Collinear points are also coplanar but coplanar points are not necessarily collinear.

And yes, it seems like we're splitting hairs here over the definitions.

subatomicgenius

· #34 · 2 mo ago

I just rebuilt an old Ryobi AP-10 planer that a buddy gave me... First planer I've ever had... It was all loose, with dull blades, old grease, and a missing roller chain & gears... Now it runs and cuts like a champ, and I don't ever wanna use a hand planer again, but I know I will... Now I want a new one, but they are SO HIGH-DOLLAR for my budget... I say "YES, GET ONE"... You'll love it once you get past the learning curve... Just make double-sure that everything is tight before you put that "fire-in-the-wire"...

Reactions: 1

Biotec

· #35 · 2 mo ago

@Newbiejosh

DeWalt 735 letter X means extras.

To me the extras are not extras in the regards at the outfeed in tables are a necessity the extra knives you can always buy but they're nice

it takes up approximately
Width = 27", height = 14", depth = 23" (tables folded-up) plus 22" more for tables down.
The handle sticks-out about 4" (in the 27" dimension).

it is heavy about 60 pounds
Dewalt 735 and 735x are the exact same tool except the 735x comes with bundled accessories. The price difference is typically $35 and priced separately the outfeed tables and an extra set of blades would cost $70 to $90.at this time Mar 3, 2023

Wheel Automotive lighting Tire Vehicle Toy

If you can get past the space it takes up then it will be a good choice to have.
also it makes bags of chips.

the learning curve of the 735 is relatively low. learning how to deal with planar snipe non-brand specific does take a little time.

as seen above lots of good Arguments for and against I have one and do enjoy using it as I need it on some of my odd projects I cannot use dimensional lumber for. note it is kind of loud. most are.
Planers with a shelix type cutters heads are much quieter. smaller bites of wood.

good luck

See less See more

difalkner

· #36 · 2 mo ago

Biotec said:
it is heavy about 60 pounds

Plus about 32 pounds, that is. Mine is at least what they say - 92 lbs. on the DeWalt website.

Rectangle Electric blue Font Pattern Parallel

See less See more

Biotec

· #37 · 2 mo ago (Edited by Moderator)

2

@difalkner
thanks for the correction. I looked at this add.

the rollers extend out about 40"
so with a long board it can support it ok
I find on thin boards that may bend it seem to create some snipe in the middle of the work with more support.
it also alows for me to roll it around to the grass and less cleanup.
note this dust not solve the fine dust problem. it just outside.

saw the 45 lbs. item weight very wrong.
mine is on a roll around stand and do not lift the whole weight. but it still vey heavy.

See less See more

21 - 37 of 37 Posts