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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a need for a 12" drawer slide that only extends about 6" or so.

All I can find online are full extension slides...

Any tips on where I might find such an item? Perhaps a 2-section slide instead of 3-section? Do such things exist?
 

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If you could live with the drawers extending about 8 "or 9" you could use KV1300 slides. If you can access the drawer slides under the drawer you could put a wooden stop under the drawer to limit it to 6". Without access under the drawer you would never be able to remove the drawer otherwise.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Please tell us about yourself and your woodworking interests in the new member’s introduction section.

There are 3/4 extension slides available in 12” length. They will extend about 9 inches. Depending on your application, you might consider a 10 inch 3/4 extension slide which should extend 7 - 8 inches.
 

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Curious question: Why a 12" slide to only extend out 6" as opposed to a 12" slide that that you only open 1/2 way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Curious question: Why a 12" slide to only extend out 6" as opposed to a 12" slide that that you only open 1/2 way?
Ok is this some kind of trick question? 😅

I'm mounting my wife's large jewelry storage cabinet on a wall that butts up against a perpendicular wall. The locking mechanism, while rarely used, would be impossible to get to if statically mounted, so I figure if I put it on a pair of slides I could slide it over when needed. I only need 3 - 4" of space to comfortable get at the lock, and so don't want it to slide much more than that due to it's weight on the mounting surface.

Seems it's much easier to find full extension slides than it is "barely extend" slides. 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
screw a small block of wood to the inside of the drawer to limit the outward travel.
Thanks for the idea - I should have posted more detail in my application, but the jewelry cabinet only has a thick solid wood frame (where I plan to mount the slides) ... the backer board is typical made-in-china 'wood' that wouldn't hold up if used as a base for stopper.
 

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Please clarify what locking mechanism it is that will be impossible to get to. Do I understand correctly that you are planning on sliding the whole jewellery box sideways away from the perpendicular wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Please clarify what locking mechanism it is that will be impossible to get to. Do I understand correctly that you are planning on sliding the whole jewellery box sideways away from the perpendicular wall?
Yes, that's right that's the plan. There's a simple lock on the right-side of the cabinet, as shown in my expert ascii art drawing below. 99% of the time the cabinet will be unlocked but if we have contractors or whatever over I'd like the ability to slide the cabinet to the left (down, in the overhead drawing below)

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You could just put a wood block as a stopper on the wall, so it only opens as far as you want it?
The wall is exactly as wide as the unit, and the unit's back is completely flush. So nothing really to catch it. I suppose I can place a small stopper on the right side of the vertical frame, should be strong enough to take a little bumper action. Thanks for the idea!
 

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Your idea of sliding the cabinet when you need to access the lock is not bad. However, if you are not able to work that out, I have 3 suggestions that might be worth considering:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Your idea of sliding the cabinet when you need to access the lock is not bad. However, if you are not able to work that out, I have 3 suggestions that might be worth considering:
Appreciate the brainstorming - Love this community! Can't mount it further as the mounting wall just fits the jewelry unit.

Putting a lock on the front face is an interesting idea; there's not much room around the mirror on the face but I'm going to consider it.

Same with the hinge change idea... Would require some sanding and touchup which I'm too ocd to get right.

Thanks again for the great ideas!
 

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If the lock on the front won't work, maybe you could put it on the bottom, close to the side opposite the hinges, so that it operates in a similar fashion to what it does now.

Just curious. If the cabinet won't fit farther to the left to provide space to access the lock, how are you going to have room to slide it left with the use of the slides you asked about? PS. Oh. the wall must end there (turning the other way)

Another alternative just occurred to me: mount the cabinet to the wall with a piano hinge on the door hinge side of the cabinet. With that, when you need to access the lock, you just swing it out. Use a magnetic catch to hold the lock side to the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If the lock on the front won't work, maybe you could put it on the bottom, close to the side opposite the hinges, so that it operates in a similar fashion to what it does now.

Just curious. If the cabinet won't fit farther to the left to provide space to access the lock, how are you going to have room to slide it left with the use of the slides you asked about? PS. Oh. the wall must end there (turning the other way)

Another alternative just occurred to me: mount the cabinet to the wall with a piano hinge on the door hinge side of the cabinet. With that, when you need to access the lock, you just swing it out. Use a magnetic catch to hold the lock side to the wall.
lol ... that's actually genius, and I might do that, because the tighter to the wall I can mount it the better due to a lightswitch on the perpendicular side, and this way I could get it close to flush.

Ok, I have another molding-related problem I've been mulling over forever, this is obviously the site to post about it to get the best ideas. Will spend a little time working up some pictures and an explanation. =D
 
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