Can never get too much of this all. I think if it is out of mind, it is. I was reminded about a week ago to PAY ATTENTION!!!! Was running a piece of oak thru table saw and reached for push stick. That was all it took and the saw bit the hand. Not too bad (still have all fingers) but it took 5 stitches to close. Still mending. So, I'm knocking on wood (my head) and thinking how lucky I was this time. So just a big reminder to all....PAY ATTENTION and be safe!!!!
Shop Safety
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Good reminder. Inattention can get you...fast. BTW...was your blade guard on?
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86 Posts
I have found out myself its a lot faster with less pain to use safety then going to the ER. Hope you the best luck for healing. I am sure you have had a learning experience also.
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629 Posts
I hear ya.
I've gotta do some cuts on the TS without the guard, and it scares the crap outa me.:blink:
Bill
I've gotta do some cuts on the TS without the guard, and it scares the crap outa me.:blink:
Bill
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31,266 Posts
no need to be scared, just respectful
Never put your hand beyond the front teeth of the blade ...unless the piece is 10" wide or so.
Never put your hand(s) in a direct line with the blade....ever.
Always have a push stick in plain site preferably on top of your fence, ready to go. A magnet will keep it in place if need and there is no trough or recess in your fence for stuff like that.
A splitter will help prevent the work from rotating off the fence and causing a kickback. Be safe.:yes:
Rule of "thumbs" :thumbsup:
Never put your hand beyond the front teeth of the blade ...unless the piece is 10" wide or so.
Never put your hand(s) in a direct line with the blade....ever.
Always have a push stick in plain site preferably on top of your fence, ready to go. A magnet will keep it in place if need and there is no trough or recess in your fence for stuff like that.
A splitter will help prevent the work from rotating off the fence and causing a kickback. Be safe.:yes:
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310 Posts
My workshop has a hollow core doore with a patch each side just below the handle. Cutting a 11/2"in two and launched a javelin. Despite that old company advert "we always stand behind our work" don't. Have to admit I don't use the fence a lot, okay, never, but I don't ever go within eight inches of the blade in front or to the side before using a pusher, mine I make and all have a hand guard on them
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31,266 Posts
please use a fence on the table saw!
You may as well use a circular saw, even that is much more safe. Without a fence, you have no means to feed the workpiece parallel to the blade. The very few times I used my tablesaw without a fence was to cut a very large panel on a diagonal, however, a much safer operation with a circular saw.
Kickbacks are just as dangerous as a spinning blade, if you are on the wrong end of a harpoon at 100 MPH. Fingers you can live without, a pierced kidney, lung or intestine may have dire consequences.
You may as well use a circular saw, even that is much more safe. Without a fence, you have no means to feed the workpiece parallel to the blade. The very few times I used my tablesaw without a fence was to cut a very large panel on a diagonal, however, a much safer operation with a circular saw.
Kickbacks are just as dangerous as a spinning blade, if you are on the wrong end of a harpoon at 100 MPH. Fingers you can live without, a pierced kidney, lung or intestine may have dire consequences.
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404 Posts
I have double sliding doors behind mine. There's a triangular "carving" in it from a piece of oak that became a UFO (unintended flying object). It reminds me to never stand directly behind the workpiece, if possible.
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310 Posts
Further to my misquote, is there anyone else who doesn't use the guard ?. I have a Delta TS and I find the guard more of a distraction and danger than no guard, I do have my custom fitted splitter but no anti kick back pawns. The one time my javelin went through the workshop door I was using the guard but the fence side pawl had flipped over. Has any one fitted custom AKB pawls on the the fence etc.
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31,266 Posts
blade guard and splitter
This photo is of a newer saw where the blade guard and splitter have not been modified. It is very easy to remove.
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This photo is of an older saw where the splitter has had the guard and AKB pawls removed because they were forever getting in the way and you can't make a partial cut with AKB pawls and restart it etc. etc. The splitter is very hard to realign and therefore it rarely if ever, comes off.
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One saw has a Biesemeyer fence, the first one, the other has a Delta Unifence, the second one showing the push stick. I use the splitter without the guard on a regular basis with no issues. The splitter prevents the work from rotating off the fence at the rear and causing a kickback AND prevents the wood from closing on the rear of the blade, potentially causing a kickback. I really rely on the splitter because of this and feel comfortable ripping even narrow lengths. The big problem is because the splitter is so tall, you have to get the push stick down in between the blade and fence, which is awkward at times with narrow stock.
This photo shows how to make an auxillary "low" fence which allows the work to be pushed easily by hand or with a push stick. It's just a "L" shaped jig which can be clamped to the fence.
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This photo is of a newer saw where the blade guard and splitter have not been modified. It is very easy to remove.
This photo is of an older saw where the splitter has had the guard and AKB pawls removed because they were forever getting in the way and you can't make a partial cut with AKB pawls and restart it etc. etc. The splitter is very hard to realign and therefore it rarely if ever, comes off.
One saw has a Biesemeyer fence, the first one, the other has a Delta Unifence, the second one showing the push stick. I use the splitter without the guard on a regular basis with no issues. The splitter prevents the work from rotating off the fence at the rear and causing a kickback AND prevents the wood from closing on the rear of the blade, potentially causing a kickback. I really rely on the splitter because of this and feel comfortable ripping even narrow lengths. The big problem is because the splitter is so tall, you have to get the push stick down in between the blade and fence, which is awkward at times with narrow stock.
This photo shows how to make an auxillary "low" fence which allows the work to be pushed easily by hand or with a push stick. It's just a "L" shaped jig which can be clamped to the fence.
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86 Posts
Yes for rare and special cuts I will take the guard off. Other then that NO ONE uses my table saw without the complete guard in place. I find once you get use to using it its something that you don't even know it there.
I've been at this only a couple of years, and using the three saws I've owned I never had a guard or splitter. Now that I have a big powerful cabinet saw with a 3hp motor, I am terrified of kickback and need to install at least a splitter. My old saw would just bog down and thermal cut out if I did a crosscut that got sticky - I think this one will probably punch it through my garage wall.
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404 Posts
I've owned my Delta TS for ~20 years. The first year I spent trying to get the guard to work. I finally gave up when, for the umteenth time, the splitter stopped the piece I was ripping and the blade tried to send it back to me. I found that guard to be more dangerous on than off.
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31,266 Posts
The importance of the splitter/riving knife
It is certainly about the physics involved... if the wood can't rotate, it can't come up and over and kickback. It can come up and over IF not held down all the way through the pass, but that is a different issue. A push shoe will help with that.
I found this video in the FWW thread about Steve Gass posted today by mntdrdr:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/fight-kickback-with-a-riving-knife.aspx
I have always believed that the splitter or riving knife is as important to table saw safety as the blade cover/guard.
It is certainly about the physics involved... if the wood can't rotate, it can't come up and over and kickback. It can come up and over IF not held down all the way through the pass, but that is a different issue. A push shoe will help with that.
I found this video in the FWW thread about Steve Gass posted today by mntdrdr:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-guide/video/fight-kickback-with-a-riving-knife.aspx
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