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crosseyed & dyslexic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this will be a first for me as I've never attempted ship lapped planking. I'm in the planning phase of building a reproduction
Stickley book case. As usual I'll be making some changes to the overall design, just so it's mine. I like the overall size but I have one concern. In my reading it states that the ship lap planking should be
5/8" thick, this is rabitted in with 2 screws top and bottom and along the sides on the 2 that run down the sides and only 1 screw top and bottom on the planks in the middle.
I have 4/4 QSWO that I'll be using, in the rough. After planning I figure to be around 3/4" to 13/16" maybe, if I'm lucky.
My plan is to resaw the planks and hence my question, would 3/8" be thick enough? and also what about bowing in the center, should I be concerned about that in the long run. I don't have an exact measurement of their length yet but I figure to around 50"
Should I plan on a fixed shelf in the middle and make an elongated hole in the backs to snug a screw to the fixed shelf?
Thanks for any advice
Eric
 

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shelf length

seems to me there was a chart posted on here a while ago about shelving thickness and length. It seems that a one inch board should not span more than 32 inches, and a thinner board would span less, to prevent sagging. Maybe someone else could point in the right direction on this.
 

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where's my table saw?
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I'm confused

What are the actual dimensions and where are the shiplap panels, on the back or down the sides?

I would resaw the planks first, then plane them. You could face joint them on each side first, then resaw leaving one side to plane. Resawing may cause the wood to warp, depending on the width and the moisture content in the wood. I've had Qtr sawn White Oak really take off on me when I sawed it.

You asked "would 3/8" be thick enough?" for what, where? Sides? Back? Not for shelves! A sketch would sure help....
 

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crosseyed & dyslexic
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah, sorry about the confusion guys:blink: It is indeed for the back of the bookcase. I might have terminology wrong, as to the ship lap planks?
I hate to plane down that much wood, and I had a feeling 3/8 thick backing might be too thin. I would hate to resaw that much wood and have it go crazy on me and warp up.
I really don't want to use oak ply, maybe I could just mill the wood down to 11/16 or so and use that. Probably will take a fork lift to move it though!
 

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where's my table saw?
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I'll probably get a "load" for this

Since the planks are rabbetted on the long grain edge you can glue them into one large panel. Then you can use 3/8" thickness since it will be structural in one panel. You must allow for movement across the width, probably about 1/4" or so. The center of the panel can be fastened with a screw or two close together, but the screws on the left and right edges will need slots for movement.
You can make the shiplap rabbets undersized so's you get a gap between the panels or spot on the same with no gaps. The panel can be set in either a groove or a deeper rabbet with a "capture" molding to hold it in place. :boat:
 
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Scotty D
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3/4" x 2-1/4" V-Groove Shiplap

This cabinet back was done with 3/4" thick shiplap. They were fastened in the center 5 places in 88". And yes, it was very heavy. :smile:
 

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