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I was finishing a dining room table so I went to home depot to get some glossy poly to put on top. The lady there INSISTED that shellac would be a much harder finish, great for a dining room table (a lot of dishes/silverwar contact etc.). Turned out to be quite a pain - I was applying it with a foam brush and it was drying so fast I had trouble getting the edges of the brush strokes smoothed out before it dried! After a few coats I got sick of that and it looked terrible so I gave it a pretty good sanding and put the poly on top (even though the can said not to?). I saw another thread on this forum that said the poly may not stick because there could be wax in the shellac (this is the zinsser bulls eye, pictured here, so according to that website it is waxless: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=28833) , but the poly seemed to stick just fine - I put 3 coats on and it looks fine now.
I have a couple of questions about this whole ordeal for you people who ACTUALLY know what you're talking about
1) which would have been better for a dining room table?
2) was it a bad idea to put poly on top of shellac (assuming it was the right kind)? why would one do this instead of poly all the way?
3) how else would I apply the "out of the can" shellac without leaving those hideous foam brush strokes?
As I said, its done and it looks fine now, but I'd like to know how to proceed should I have to do something like this again.
Thanks!
David
I have a couple of questions about this whole ordeal for you people who ACTUALLY know what you're talking about
1) which would have been better for a dining room table?
2) was it a bad idea to put poly on top of shellac (assuming it was the right kind)? why would one do this instead of poly all the way?
3) how else would I apply the "out of the can" shellac without leaving those hideous foam brush strokes?
As I said, its done and it looks fine now, but I'd like to know how to proceed should I have to do something like this again.
Thanks!
David