Is it normal practice when using a guide to go back and forth or just pull it towards your body? Thanks!
No lol, I plan on using them when hand cutting dovetails. The paper and my arm was just a quick test to see how sharp it was. I think I have a good technique finally so I can apply it to the other chisels. That video really helped me, very informative and exactly what I was looking for.Well, good. If all you plan to do is shave arm hair and cut paper, you're done!
How well does that edge cut in the wood that you intend to use? For carving, I have "try sticks" of every kind of wood that I use. I test edges in that wood as I have no urgent need to carve arm pit hair, fingers or paper.
If you need a really shiny surface, you need to "hone" the face of the bevel with a honing compound on a strop.
1. The honing compounds are 0.5 micron and smaller, that's possibly 40,000 grit. No, anyone who tells you that these are polishing compounds is full of hooey = the edge is so finely scratched that your eyes can't see it and you 'believe' that the metal is polished (use a 10X magnifier to prove what I say.)
2. "Push" rams the fresh edge into the sharpening medium = error. Each push undoes a pull.
For honing my carving tools and those for other carvers, I use chrome green which is a green colored chemical with a nominal partical size of 0.5 micrometer. Besides the common european style gouges and skews, I have 9 different crooked knives. Four of those are pairs of Mora #171 Hook knives = their edges, now at 12 degreees, are better than stock razor blades.
I'm not bragging. Making tools carving sharp is a learned skill. Over the past 10 years, I have learned to do that very, very well and I will endeavour to teach anybody how to do it.
BTW, I do it all freehand. Once you learn how to use your body as a jig, you are good to go. Veritas, eat your heart out.
How does flattening the first inch behind the bevel edge promote a good cutting edge?