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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Somehow I was able to get a micro bevel on my big 1" chisel but I can't seem to do it on my 3/4 or 1/2. I am using dewalt chisels and I am practicing on them before I sharpen my stanleys, which were a tad more expensive, I just don't have the confidence in sharpening them so I am using the dewalts as testers. I am using a veritas sharpening system set to 25degrees and I start with a 1000 and finish with a 4000. I also have a 250 and 800 but I dont use those since the chisels are new. Thanks for any tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips. I did swipe the back of the chisels a few times. The back of the chisels are weird now that I ran them across the stones. They are almost smudged in some areas on the back more so towards the tip, and the rest of the blade seems untouched by the stone. Same thing on the bevel end, there is a small shiny area and a dark smudgy area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
that video was great and very helpful. I cannot seem to get a shiny finish on my chisel, even using a 4000grit, but it is extremely sharp now. I was able to shave my arm hair with it, and it cuts through paper with ease, so I think I just need to keep practicing my skill at sharpening and then I can do my primary chisels :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, good. If all you plan to do is shave arm hair and cut paper, you're done!

How well does that edge cut in the wood that you intend to use? For carving, I have "try sticks" of every kind of wood that I use. I test edges in that wood as I have no urgent need to carve arm pit hair, fingers or paper.

If you need a really shiny surface, you need to "hone" the face of the bevel with a honing compound on a strop.
1. The honing compounds are 0.5 micron and smaller, that's possibly 40,000 grit. No, anyone who tells you that these are polishing compounds is full of hooey = the edge is so finely scratched that your eyes can't see it and you 'believe' that the metal is polished (use a 10X magnifier to prove what I say.)
2. "Push" rams the fresh edge into the sharpening medium = error. Each push undoes a pull.

For honing my carving tools and those for other carvers, I use chrome green which is a green colored chemical with a nominal partical size of 0.5 micrometer. Besides the common european style gouges and skews, I have 9 different crooked knives. Four of those are pairs of Mora #171 Hook knives = their edges, now at 12 degreees, are better than stock razor blades.

I'm not bragging. Making tools carving sharp is a learned skill. Over the past 10 years, I have learned to do that very, very well and I will endeavour to teach anybody how to do it.
BTW, I do it all freehand. Once you learn how to use your body as a jig, you are good to go. Veritas, eat your heart out.

How does flattening the first inch behind the bevel edge promote a good cutting edge?
No lol, I plan on using them when hand cutting dovetails. The paper and my arm was just a quick test to see how sharp it was. I think I have a good technique finally so I can apply it to the other chisels. That video really helped me, very informative and exactly what I was looking for.
 
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