Is it normal practice when using a guide to go back and forth or just pull it towards your body? Thanks!
You only need to flatten the first inch of the back next to the cutting edge. After fifty years of use if you have shortened the chisel from sharpening you can flatten the next inch.:smile:Thanks for the tips. I did swipe the back of the chisels a few times. The back of the chisels are weird now that I ran them across the stones. They are almost smudged in some areas on the back more so towards the tip, and the rest of the blade seems untouched by the stone. Same thing on the bevel end, there is a small shiny area and a dark smudgy area.
No lol, I plan on using them when hand cutting dovetails. The paper and my arm was just a quick test to see how sharp it was. I think I have a good technique finally so I can apply it to the other chisels. That video really helped me, very informative and exactly what I was looking for.Well, good. If all you plan to do is shave arm hair and cut paper, you're done!
How well does that edge cut in the wood that you intend to use? For carving, I have "try sticks" of every kind of wood that I use. I test edges in that wood as I have no urgent need to carve arm pit hair, fingers or paper.
If you need a really shiny surface, you need to "hone" the face of the bevel with a honing compound on a strop.
1. The honing compounds are 0.5 micron and smaller, that's possibly 40,000 grit. No, anyone who tells you that these are polishing compounds is full of hooey = the edge is so finely scratched that your eyes can't see it and you 'believe' that the metal is polished (use a 10X magnifier to prove what I say.)
2. "Push" rams the fresh edge into the sharpening medium = error. Each push undoes a pull.
For honing my carving tools and those for other carvers, I use chrome green which is a green colored chemical with a nominal partical size of 0.5 micrometer. Besides the common european style gouges and skews, I have 9 different crooked knives. Four of those are pairs of Mora #171 Hook knives = their edges, now at 12 degreees, are better than stock razor blades.
I'm not bragging. Making tools carving sharp is a learned skill. Over the past 10 years, I have learned to do that very, very well and I will endeavour to teach anybody how to do it.
BTW, I do it all freehand. Once you learn how to use your body as a jig, you are good to go. Veritas, eat your heart out.
How does flattening the first inch behind the bevel edge promote a good cutting edge?
It doesn't have the right socket for a turning tool. It just looks like someone was picking ice and concrete with it. It's still a keeper. It's been struck pretty hard but it's also made to be struck. If it were mine I would follow the instructions and restore it. Yak with the hand tool guys. Many in that section can tell you exactly what it is.Robson Valley said:Don't have any idea what the proper name might be, BUT. . .
if you turn it over, it looks like a round-nose, wood turning, lathe tool. Approx 60 degree bevel. I have tuned up a few of those over the past couple of years.
I wouldn't be surprised if it was used to chip mortar or concrete. It was in a bucket with some of my dad's other masonry tools. My dad's bench chisels are similarly rounded as well and I know they have been used as screwdriver, pry bars and putty knives in a pinch.Al B Thayer said:It doesn't have the right socket for a turning tool. It just looks like someone was picking ice and concrete with it. It's still a keeper. It's been struck pretty hard but it's also made to be struck. If it were mine I would follow the instructions and restore it. Yak with the hand tool guys. Many in that section can tell you exactly what it is. Al Nails only hold themselves.