Shaper VS. Router Table Differance's
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it's mostly about the power and the speed
Routers may be rated from 1 to 2 Hp, up to 3 1/2 HP, but that's based on some high power mathematics and assumptions. The router motors are "universal" AC/DC with brushes where the shaper motor are rated a real 3 HP and are induction run only, and require 220 Volts.
That's the power story briefly.
The shaper is meant to turn slower, either 7,000 RPM's or 10,000 RPM's usually just 2 speeds. The router motors turn from 8,000 RPM's to 22,000 RPM's. The smaller 1/4" shank bits need to spin at the 20,000 rpm range. The larger raised panel bit up to 3" in diameter need to spin slower, around 8,000 RPM's or so.
So, you can't really use smaller dia bits in the shaper with great success, but you can use the larger panel raising bits in a router table ....IF you slow the speed down appropriately.
Bottom line, smaller bits in the router table, and large cutters in the shaper for best efficiency. There are many more profiles available in shaper cutters, at considerable expense, than there are in large diameter router bits. A well equipped shop will have both machines, but for just starting out, a good powerful router in a solid table, maybe with a lift, will do a whole lot of profiles.... :yes:
Routers may be rated from 1 to 2 Hp, up to 3 1/2 HP, but that's based on some high power mathematics and assumptions. The router motors are "universal" AC/DC with brushes where the shaper motor are rated a real 3 HP and are induction run only, and require 220 Volts.
That's the power story briefly.
The shaper is meant to turn slower, either 7,000 RPM's or 10,000 RPM's usually just 2 speeds. The router motors turn from 8,000 RPM's to 22,000 RPM's. The smaller 1/4" shank bits need to spin at the 20,000 rpm range. The larger raised panel bit up to 3" in diameter need to spin slower, around 8,000 RPM's or so.
So, you can't really use smaller dia bits in the shaper with great success, but you can use the larger panel raising bits in a router table ....IF you slow the speed down appropriately.
Bottom line, smaller bits in the router table, and large cutters in the shaper for best efficiency. There are many more profiles available in shaper cutters, at considerable expense, than there are in large diameter router bits. A well equipped shop will have both machines, but for just starting out, a good powerful router in a solid table, maybe with a lift, will do a whole lot of profiles.... :yes:
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40 Posts
Thanks for bringing this up. I purchased a Grizzly Shaper used and then got the impression that the router tables made them obsolete. I would like to know the types of applications that both would be utilized from those who use both.
Jim
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26,989 Posts
If you are wanting to run larger cuts I would go with the shaper. While a router might work I think it would overheat if you ran larger cuts for an hour or more. Also with a shaper you can get a collar for it and make your own custom cutting knives as if you had a woodmaster molder. Many shapers you can also get a router bit collar you can also run router bits too. I have a grizzly G1026 that has a 1/2", 3/4" and 1" shaft as well as a router bit collar.
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34 Posts
I have two router tables and a shaper, to me biggest advantage to a shaper is that it can run backwards. They are also quieter and produce a cleaner cut.
Glad I asked and a lot of info thanks very much. CT Proctor you in Connecticut as I am. Woodnthings thanks for your input as more info then I know about this. Reason I asked this question I'm looking to get a new router table and not sure which way to go. As for a shaper I'll have to wait on that for now. Looking and trying to get into kitchen cabinets more.
Good stuff above.
Just a note on safety.In general,as the tooling(cutter)size goes up or bigger.......theres a direct correlation to the need for safety.NOT to imply a small cutter head dosen't require safe operation.....
It's when cutters start to really swing a wide profile,irrespective of equipment......could be a router with a raised panel "bit"....that they demand more safety measures.There's more leverage and it ain't on a lineal scale.
And safety here isn't only about "your" digits.......heck,you might be using a 3' push stick.It's about the safety of the "cut".Getting away with small amts of chatter on a 3/8" round over can be catastrophic on a 1 1/2" roundover.And it's not just the workpiece that's being "beat on"....all that chatter is going right through the collet,right through the spindle....and beating your bearings to death.
You have been warned.Strive for really smooth cuts,utilizing quality hold-downs,power feeder,etc.Really work on your safety guards,make them not only easy to use but fashionable(where you not only "want" to use them,but they're assisting in the elimination of chatter).
Just a note on safety.In general,as the tooling(cutter)size goes up or bigger.......theres a direct correlation to the need for safety.NOT to imply a small cutter head dosen't require safe operation.....
It's when cutters start to really swing a wide profile,irrespective of equipment......could be a router with a raised panel "bit"....that they demand more safety measures.There's more leverage and it ain't on a lineal scale.
And safety here isn't only about "your" digits.......heck,you might be using a 3' push stick.It's about the safety of the "cut".Getting away with small amts of chatter on a 3/8" round over can be catastrophic on a 1 1/2" roundover.And it's not just the workpiece that's being "beat on"....all that chatter is going right through the collet,right through the spindle....and beating your bearings to death.
You have been warned.Strive for really smooth cuts,utilizing quality hold-downs,power feeder,etc.Really work on your safety guards,make them not only easy to use but fashionable(where you not only "want" to use them,but they're assisting in the elimination of chatter).
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