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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a craftsman 1/2" shaper cutter that i'm trying to find a straight edge cutter that will have the bearing on bottom. My template will hold the piece im cutting and ride on the bearing, so that i can have perfect cuts.

any idea on where to find one?
 

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Grizzly has some

1/4" thick spacer with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-Collar-3-4-x-2-OD/W1119

2" rub collar bearing with 3/4" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-Collar-3-4-x-2-OD/W1119

Reducer for 3/4" ID to 1/2" bore required for above bearing:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Straight-Bushing-1-2-ID-x-3-4-OD/W1158

2" OD straight cutter with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-1-Straight-1-2-Bore/C2007


these should be all you need for the project.

Now, as to how to stack them ... bearing on top or bottom?
I don't think it makes much difference, more of a "will it work" on your arbor issue. How much does the arbor extend above the table at full height? Can you stack the components and still tighten the nut?

I would be concerned with a steel template on top for 2 reasons. If the template contacts the cutter...good bye cutter and watch out for shrapnel. The second reason if the template is on the top rather than resting on the table you will have to support the weight of the steel every time you make a pass... it will get very heavy. I would just make a MDF or plywood template, actually several to have a spare, to avoid these issues.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what about something like this?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-1-8-Spiral-Cutterhead/H2876

we are cutting out laminates that are 9 plies. the over all thickness is about a 0.5" but some bends on a side. now its ok to have the slight lines in the wood after the cut. as long as they arent a huge line.

we take the laminates then sand down the edges after, so this spiral cutterhead seems like it would work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

if you look at 3:00 thats what me and my grandson need. we are doing the same thing except our template is on bottom and made from steel.

im sure we can make what they have in the video as their "top" template with handles and guide pins on bottom. Im just not sure which would work better/ be safer.

so whatever they are using i need to find for my shop. thanks so far
 

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I can't open any of the links with my internet. From your description all you would need is a rub collar the same diameter or close to it to the cutting edge of your 1/2" shaper cutter. You can make the pattern larger or smaller than the actual finished part to make up for any difference. You don't have to have a roller bearing. The pattern will run just fine against a solid piece of steel and last a long time if you don't put excessive pressure on it. The pattern would just last longer against a roller bearing.
 

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Added new info to this

1/4" thick spacer with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-Collar-3-4-x-2-OD/W1119

2" rub collar bearing with 3/4" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-Collar-3-4-x-2-OD/W1119

Reducer for 3/4" ID to 1/2" bore required for above bearing:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Straight-Bushing-1-2-ID-x-3-4-OD/W1158

2" OD straight cutter with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shaper-Cutter-1-Straight-1-2-Bore/C2007


these should be all you need for the project.

Now, as to how to stack them ... bearing on top or bottom?
I don't think it makes much difference, more of a "will it work" on your arbor issue. How much does the arbor extend above the table at full height? Can you stack the components and still tighten the nut?

I would be concerned with a steel template on top for 2 reasons. If the template contacts the cutter...good bye cutter and watch out for shrapnel. The second reason if the template is on the top rather than resting on the table you will have to support the weight of the steel every time you make a pass... it will get very heavy. I would just make a MDF or plywood template, actually several to have a spare, to avoid these issues.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-1-...tterhead/H2876
That spiral cutter your asked about is way too much for that small shaper. It also has a 1 1/4" bore, and it cost $260.00 to boot. JMO.
 

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there's a typo in the first link.

Originally Posted by woodnthings
1/4" thick spacer with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-...4-x-2-OD/W1159

2" rub collar bearing with 3/4" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rub-...4-x-2-OD/W1119

Reducer for 3/4" ID to 1/2" bore required for above bearing:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Stra...x-3-4-OD/W1158

2" OD straight cutter with 1/2" bore:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shap...1-2-Bore/C2007


I fixed it! :smile:

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2014/Main/540

Use this chart to select the sizes you need.
 

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I try to keep as much of the cutter as possible in the table and further away from the hands. For that reason, if you have a choice, put the bearing and pattern on top. Doing it the other way around exposes too much of the cutter.
 

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I think we will replicate something similar to the video. definitely bearing on top for safety
It's been about 10 months since your first post on this subject, and this thread was bumped, so, how have you been machining the boards since? Instead of using a shaper, have you tried a table router setup?





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Rockler sells great bits that should work in a shaper with the proper collet. You can change bearing on bottom or top. I bought one set years ago and LOVE it.
 

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amana tools

buy a rub collar, spacers, and a 1/2 straight bit.

get the catalog from their website. it pretty easy to put the parts together
 
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