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No Longer Here, BY CHOICE
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So many of you have read threads where I have mentioned the idea of bolting a couple of Emerson made Craftsman saws together. Yes, I got the idea from woodnthings but Im not taking it to his extreme as i dont have near the space required.

Anyhow, I only had one saw. I placed a WTB add on CL and got a whole bunch of response. Some of them were comical. I got pics of saws rusted really bad with dirt and crap caked everywhere and missing half the parts and they are asking $250. Then I get one email from and older gentleman saying he had a beautiful saw but he hadnt a clue how to send me any pics. He assured me I wouldnt find a nicer saw from that era. He was only about 20 minutes away so I went to see him today.

I couldnt believe the condition of this saw. I know they are out there but I never thought I would find one. This thing is in next to perfect condition and everything works perfectly. He had every part that came with the saw includng all the manulas for the saw, motor and mobile base. He even gave me a little saw blade selection guide that came with it. This man really cared for this saw and I could tell he didnt really wanna sell it but he knew he wasnt ever gonna use it again and wanted to see it go to a good home. I probably could have paid a little less for it but I didnt have the heart to ask him. I paid $125 for it. Its a 113.298032


So my plan is to make a workcenter that will hold both saws and have a router station on the far right end. I plan to ditch the wings, rails and fence along with the stock pullys and belts. I ordered new machined pullys and serpentine belts for both saws allready. When bolted together, a Delta T2 fence should span both of them if I mount the rails as far to the right as possible. The left saw will be a dedicated ripper and I should have about 48" or so of rip capacity. The right saw will be a dedicated cross cut saw. Ill use my super sled for 90+% of those cuts but in the rare instance that I need a fence, I should have 20" or better of capacity with that one. Either could be swapped over for dadoes whenever needed.

Heres a couple pics. The first one is the saw I picked up today for $125. The second one is a 113.299040 that I picked up awhile back for $50. Its gonna need some work! Let me know what you think of my plan. Im open to hearing all kinds of ideas.
 

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where's my table saw?
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way to go blaster!

I'd put the nice new one, as the crosscut and the nasty one as the ripper.... :yes: It will probably clean up just fine.

It's so handy not to have to change out the blades ...you're gonna' love it!
You can't have too many table saws.
 
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No Longer Here, BY CHOICE
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Yeah, I m excited to build my saw station and get this all working. The older one I think will clean up okay. Ive allready been on Ebay to try and find the cast cranks like on the newer saw to put on the older on. I"ll probably change the face plate on the front of the saw so that they match too. OCD, my wife thinks its hillarious but its how I roll!!

The visit with the old man was great. He knows absolutely nothing about me so he assumed I knew absolutely nothing about the saw. He explained how every function of the saw worked and explained to me how I should put a few drops of oil in the motor a couple times a year and cautioned me to never lose the little yellow key in the switch. I didnt tell him I plan to dissassemble the saw and most of those parts including the switch arnt going back on it. My Grandpa is the one who got me into woodworking when I was a kid. He passed when I was 16 and for a few minutes today I felt like I was standing in Grandpas shop taking direction from him. I never stopped that man from talking today, I would have let him talk all day!:thumbsup:
 

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Sawdust Creator
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I wouldn't worry about the lengths of the rails.....just pick up a longer tube at a metal supply shop and make it whatever length you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Im fairly certain the stock rails that come with the T2 will be long enough to do what I want. Ill definately keep that in mind though if I ever need more capacity on the CC side. Now to patiently wait for Tool Barn to get some more T2's in stock.:thumbsup:

Hey Ryan, arnt you the one that posted the link to the Ebay add for the serpentine belt kit for these saws? If so, thanks! He had 2 left so I grabbed them up last night. I didnt even know those were available. I was planning to buy new steel pullys and swap to link belts. I was able to pick up both kits from him for about what one link belt would have cost me. One concern for me is that the manual calls for a 41" belt but the serpentine belt that comes with the kit is 41.7". I assume he knew what he was doing when he put these kits together. We'll see when I get em fixed up!
 

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Sawdust Creator
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I don't think it was me.....I'd assume the pully sizes are a bit different to accommodate that. Even if not, that isn't much and should work.
 

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BassBlaster said:
This is the kit I ordered. Looks like he posted a bunch more after I got the last two that was listed. These come with 2.2" pullys. I havnt measured the stock pullys but for some reason Im thinking they are 2". That would be the difference I suppose.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ridgid-Craftsman-Table-Saw-Serpentine-Belt-and-Pulley-Kit-Belt-417J-816439-3-/201018654973?hash=item2ecda540fd
I was just going to ask you if you got the pulley kit from eBay. Let me know how they fit on the 299040.

Awesome find on the saw btw....can't wait to see everything set up.
 

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where's my table saw?
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make a mobile base

When I had 2 Craftsman benchtop saws mated together, I made a wide lower stand on wheels. I used 1 1/2" angles and bolted them together. I used an extra saw table for a spacer between them since mine would not fit smack flush together because of a bump in the cabinet for the built in motor. I needed them mobile because I had a small shop space at that time.

That's not the case with belt drives, but you might consider some sort of spacer like a solid wing extension to space them apart. If they don't need to move around then a fixed base cabinet will be fine.
Presently, mine have 2" angle legs that are bolted to the 4 corners of each saw cabinet and they don't get moved.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was just going to ask you if you got the pulley kit from eBay. Let me know how they fit on the 299040.

Awesome find on the saw btw....can't wait to see everything set up.
Thanks! Im excited to get this project underway!

Ill let you know but they should be a direct replacement. Its a hard deal to pass up for the price! I dunno if a serp belt is suppose to be better than a link belt or not but the newer saw is allready nice and smoth with an old ragged v-belt.

When I had 2 Craftsman benchtop saws mated together, I made a wide lower stand on wheels. I used 1 1/2" angles and bolted them together. I used an extra saw table for a spacer between them since mine would not fit smack flush together because of a bump in the cabinet for the built in motor. I needed them mobile because I had a small shop space at that time.

That's not the case with belt drives, but you might consider some sort of spacer like a solid wing extension to space them apart. If they don't need to move around then a fixed base cabinet will be fine.
Presently, mine have 2" angle legs that are bolted to the 4 corners of each saw cabinet and they don't get moved.

This will definately be a fixed base cabinet. I dont even intend to put it on casters. It will have levelers as feet. This thing is going to be heavy. I plan to use plywood construction and then laminate 2 3/4" pieces of MDF for the top and then use formica or something on it. The far right end will house the big Triton router. Im still not set on dimensions as I need to move some stuff around and see exactly how much space I have but Im guessing its gonna be roughly 6' wide and 3' deep. I do intend to build it to where it is easily taken apart as we are still renters so it wont be in this basement forever. The base itself wont be 3' deep so when the top is removed, the base will still fit through the doorway when it comes time to move it.

I considered a solid wing as a spacer but I really wanna maximize the use of the stock T2 rails and not have to modify anything to be able to use one fence with two saws. I have two concerns with that though. When bolted together there will be just shy of 6" of space between the two saw cabinets. Will that be enough room to get in there and operate the tilt mechanism on the left saw without banging my hands up or getting frusterated all the time? The other concern will be after bolting the two saws together, will the miter slots on the two saws be parallel? I guess that will all be trial and error. I suppose some sanding can be done on the edges of the cast iron if need be to get everything to line up.

Is there some other advantage to a spacer that Im missing other than the added weight? When this thing is done it will weigh more than a cabinet saw so weight isnt a concern for me. It should be rock solid.
 

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Sawdust Creator
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That's going to be your difficulty....squaring both miter slots to the fence...I would bet the miter slots aren't parallel to the edges of the saw....there wouldn't have been any reason for them to have been in stock configuration. You'll likely need to shim them to get into parallel.

Although....there shouldn't be any reason to be using the cross cut saw with the fence....so you could in theory not worry about that one being parallel to the fence.


I think your really going to wish you had more than 6 inches to operate the bevel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's going to be your difficulty....squaring both miter slots to the fence...I would bet the miter slots aren't parallel to the edges of the saw....there wouldn't have been any reason for them to have been in stock configuration. You'll likely need to shim them to get into parallel.

Although....there shouldn't be any reason to be using the cross cut saw with the fence....so you could in theory not worry about that one being parallel to the fence.


I think your really going to wish you had more than 6 inches to operate the bevel.
Yeah thats my thinking as well. Back in the day, I would use a fence with a block clamped to it and cross cut using a miter guage. Since building a sled, I have never used a fence so theres really not a whole lot of worry about the slots since the fence will almost never be used on the cross cut saw.

Yeah I think 6" is gonna be a little tight. I need to actually measure the handwheel and see how much space it uses up. For no more bevel cutting than I do, I made just deal with the tightness to avoid having to use some kind of spacer. Nothing is set in stone just yet though, were still in the planning stages. The only thing set in stone right now is to get these saws back in working order!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Im not completely against it. It would just be simpler if I didnt need to go that route. If I went with a cast wing as a spacer I think its going to make the saw assembly so long, Im going to lose the space I need for the router table. Im not opposed to having a laminate spacer that matches the rest of the surround thats wide enough to give me room to operate the tilt wheel.

I just dont know how much room I have and how long I can make this thing for sure just yet. Im going to make it as big as possible but I have a small space that Im moving my shop too and I have a lot of other tools to get in there. Ill know more once I get that space cleared out and start moving tools in. Im shooting for 6' X 3' plus an outfeed. That would allow room for a small spacer if need be.
 

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I wish I had the room or I’d do the same. It seems like no matter how hard I try to make all my rip cuts at one time before changing over to cross cut, I find that I have to change the blade again anyway.:huh:
 

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