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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I would share this....

Got tired of having my saw laying on the floor of the tractor or having a partner carry it on the wheeler when we are working in the woods or skidding logs for the mill. It mounts right to the post for the loader mounts and will hold any of my saws. can even get my 660 stihl with a 28 inch bar in it.

 

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where's my table saw?
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details?

OK, I see the saw, but not the scabbard. Lot's of dirt also. How's it work? Slides in from the top, like a sword? What's it made from? etc... more photos would be helpful and some details. :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I made it out of two pieces of 3/4 advantech. I put two pieces of 1/2 inch hardwood strips down each side between the advantech to create the bar opening. I drilled two holy inch holes all the wah through it for the bolts then opened one side up to a full inch for the bolt to recess so it wouldn't be in the way of the saw. It slides in from the top. I'll try and get a few pics to show it better.
 

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Good idea. Sometimes simple ideas like that, plus a little time putting them together can save a lot of aggravation. Sure beats having it fall off the tractor and running over it with the brush hog. :sad:
 

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I just bought me a new saw and would like to keep it looking that way for a while. I think a scabbard will be in my future. I need to make one that I can move form on tractor to another, and use on my buggy. I'm not got that figured out yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I haven't had a saw that looks that new in a long time! I'd want a scabbard for it too. I'm still running saws with 0's in front of the number.
That 251 is a replacement for an 021 that burned up on me. At least that's what my wife thinks.....new crank bearings seals And a piston and she's back together. Those are my brushing saws, my 440 is my workhorse and I let a guy borrow my 660 and put straight gas through it so now that still sits waiting for a short block.
 

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You probably only need a cylinder kit for the 660. The cylinder is just aluminum, whereas the lower end is almost automotive strength. I've had good luck with the aftermarket kits off ebay. They're pretty easy to change. You can take the oppourtunity to go with a big bore kit, but that's a few more dollars, and the saw has plenty of power pulling a 42" bar with .404-.063 chain anyway for me.

You don't really need any special tools, other than the T27 T wrench that fits almost everything else. You don't need ring compressors or any of that sort of thing. Fingers work just fine. Notice that there's a little pin in the ring slots. The gap in the ring has tapered ends. I don't remember which way they go, but look at whether the little pin is at the top or bottom of the slot, and put the ring on accordingly. I broke the first ring I put on by putting it on the wrong way, and trying to put the cylinder down over the piston. Oil the piston up good before you slide the cylinder down over it.

The good thing about the Stihl T27 wrench is that you can feel the shank twist when you have reached the proper torque. The manuals call for all sorts of different Locktite for each location, but I've always just used anti-seize, and never had anything back out, and no problems taking anything back apart with galled threads.

I have a Poulan that doesn't run that I give to anyone who wants to borrow a chainsaw. I'd never loan out the ported 066, 036, or any of the orange saws.
 
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