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What do you guys think about this deal on CL for a saw guide?

http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/3713207354.html

I will be making about a dozen kitchen cabinets from Melamine (PB core) for home and need to cut a lot of 4x8 sheets (like 15 or so).

I have previously posted about upgrading my CM flexshaft drive table saw with side/infeed/outfeed tables and a new fence or buying a better table saw. Maybe this type of tool along with my circular saw (higher end Milwaukee) would actually work better for the 4x8 melamine?

Thanks
Steve
 

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Old School
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What do you guys think about this deal on CL for a saw guide?

http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/3713207354.html

I will be making about a dozen kitchen cabinets from Melamine (PB core) for home and need to cut a lot of 4x8 sheets (like 15 or so).

I have previously posted about upgrading my CM flexshaft drive table saw with side/infeed/outfeed tables and a new fence or buying a better table saw. Maybe this type of tool along with my circular saw (higher end Milwaukee) would actually work better for the 4x8 melamine?

Thanks
Steve
Instead of buying an edge guide, just make one like this.





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John
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Hi Steve - kinda wonder why the guy is selling:blink:. Doesn't look like a bad deal. C-man's recommendation gives you a zero clearance reference which elimates calculating offset for every cut. Not sure if that rig does or not.
IMO, any saw guide for a circular saw provides a better, safer alternative to trying to rip down sheet stock on a table saw. Admittedly, some members have the shop space for extensive infeed, outfeed and side support. I'm not one of them so I am a bit biased.
One key to the success of your project is to get a good blade for your saw. I assume the melamine is double sided so I would recommend the DiabloD0756N, 56 tooth TCG blade. It's a non-ferrous metal/plastic blade.
Good Luck:smile:
 

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Old School
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User SebringDon once posted a link to what I think is a more complete description of cabinetman's recommendation.
There is a difference with the guide board in that link, and my suggestion. That guide board should be measured and marked from the edge to be cut at both ends. That guide board is not self squaring. The simple "T" type square I suggested is self squaring off the bottom edge, and the end of the right "leg" is set on a mark for a cut. The only real clamp needed is at the far end. Of course, two clamps could also be used for long cuts if necessary.




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Cabinetman,

OK, I get the self-squaring. Was a little confused by the expression "first pass distance". That's basically the offset?
 

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Old School
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Cabinetman,

OK, I get the self-squaring. Was a little confused by the expression "first pass distance". That's basically the offset?
Yep. The right leg can be left a little long when making the jig. The first pass with the saw cuts it off exactly where the saw will cut. That should be checked if the blade gets changed.





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I use a shop made zero clearance jig for cutting ply in half. I rip on the ts, so only made one to cut 4'

Very simple. The picture shows it upside down. Just clamp the wide piece (one that has the t slot) on the cut line and thats where the saw cuts. Without using a t slot, and clamps that don't get in way of saw would work.

With the t slot and hold down clamps on the bottom, there are no clamps to get in the way of the saw.
 

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Master firewood maker
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I use a shop made zero clearance jig for cutting ply in half. I rip on the ts, so only made one to cut 4'

Very simple. The picture shows it upside down. Just clamp the wide piece (one that has the t slot) on the cut line and thats where the saw cuts. Without using a t slot, and clamps that don't get in way of saw would work.

With the t slot and hold down clamps on the bottom, there are no clamps to get in the way of the saw.
clamping from underneath is a great solution to the problem I have always wrestled with for guide systems. thanks for sharing this.
 

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IDidItMyself
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Have a look at Exacta-Guide

I recently came across a product at a Home Hardware store that looks to be something you may want to check out. The Exacta-Guide has a base size of 16 inches, and with extensions, up to 97 inches, so you can rip your plywood as mentioned.

They indicate no clamps required, and that it is customized to your tools, circular saw, router and jigsaw.

Hope it helps.
 
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