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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 20 or so year old 10" Delta contractor's saw, #34-444, 52" unifence. It's been adequate and a good workhorse, but I've had problems for years with binding when raising and lowering the saw, and particularly when angling the blade. I usually clean it out, spray some silicone, and deal with it. I've tried adjusting the runout but the instructions for doing that don't work and the images/diagrams don't quite line up with actuality. I finally dismantled everything and turned it over and took a picture with the hopes someone can shed light on the issue.
420573

Note the collar, A3. What is its purpose? It isn't in the mfg diagram. The collar has a setscrew, but does not rotate fully with the setscrew backed out. The instructions and most tune-up guides say to loosen A2, adjust the eccentric A1, then tighten A2. However, tightening A2 snugs it on the cast body and prevents the shaft from turning at all. It seems like there should be some sort of shoulder on the shaft that sticks out from the body so tightening A2 doesn't contact the body.
Any insights would be much appreciated.
Gary
 

where's my table saw?
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I can't speak to that particular system, but it's very close to the same as my Craftsman 12" direct drive. The segment teeth get cloggged with sawdust when the height and especially when the angle adjustment is not changed for a long time. It just binds up and I need to crawl under it and brush the gummed up dust out, blow it out with a high pressure air nozzle and spray a dry lube on it. I first have to disconnect the 4" dust collection pipe, drop the steel bottom pan and then lay upside down so the dust falls in my eyes and face...... PITA totally. I think the collar A3 with the set screw, is a stop on the angle adjustment, but I could be wrong. It will help to label which is what so we will know. 馃檭
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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The segement teeth get cloggged with sawdust when the height and especially when the angle adjustment is not changed for a long time. It just binds up and I need to crawl under it and brush the gummed up dust out, blow it out with a high pressure air nozzle and spray a dry lube on it. I first have to disconnect the 4" dust collection pipe, drop the steel bottom pan and then lay upside down so the dust falls in my eyes and face...... PITA totally.
I've cleaned them many times, but that's not the problem here. It's definitely the fact that the nut A2 gets tightened against the block (under the B1 label in the picture). I clean it without removing the dust collection pipe by sticking my (barely skinny enough) arm in past the motor and the belt with the arbor raised as high as I can get it. A great mod would be to cut a hole in the side of the saw and hinge a door there.
 

where's my table saw?
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Cut the dang hole! That's a great idea and I've done that to access unreachable nuts on my Steiner tractor, the mounting bolts/nets on the doors of GM trucks and others I can't remember. I use a hole saw of the appropriate size and find a plastic plug to seal the hole ... if needed. For a hole of 4" or so, that may be a bit too large for a hole saw, I donno? A sabre saw will do if you can get it under the table. Wiss aircraft snips will also work if you can start them in smaller hole. They have a right and left hand for making those CW or CCW circles. The straight type probably won't work as well.
 

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The worm gear (A1) should be centered so it rides in the center of the radius gear. The radius gear has teeth cut into it that have a radius that require the worm gear to be centered for smooth action. Does the eccentric nut allow you to move the worm gear (above A1) from side to side? (left to right in the photo)

It appears that A2 is to adjust the lash (end to end play) of the worm gear... and the shoulder then is placed against A2 once adjusted.
 
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